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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

DJI RONIN PRO SUPPORT

Right, Im getting the 'Please rebalance your camera' Message every time I try and auto tune.

My camera is 100% balanced. I've done this thousands of time with a Movi.

Any ideas?
 
Joe Lawry said:
Right, Im getting the 'Please rebalance your camera' Message every time I try and auto tune.

My camera is 100% balanced. I've done this thousands of time with a Movi.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

That message only pops up when the camera is not properly balanced. Can you point it in any direction while the motors are killed and the camera stays put? Try all weird angles to make sure...
If still the same issue persists - please take a screen-shot of the app's "viewer" section - chose the power tab, not the angle one. Please post here, or if you prefer - email to me to peter(at)derylgroup(dot)com

:sifone: Peter
 
Joe Lawry said:
Right, Im getting the 'Please rebalance your camera' Message every time I try and auto tune.

My camera is 100% balanced. I've done this thousands of time with a Movi.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

I have to say the same happens to me. I just went ahead and put in the values manually. about 20-25 for each axis.
And yes, the camera is 110% balanced. will stay put at any angle, and the power values are between 0-3 in all axis.
 
http://instagram.com/p/rVrQi4gzTi/

http://instagram.com/p/rVrTM8gzTp/

I think the Auto tune may have worked. I thought that the lens was meant to point down after it has finished but I now realise that is only when you do a Calibrate System.

The Deadband in SmoothTrack mode needs more work. Even set to 0 the 'window' of pan needed is way too large to be accurate.

I'd also love to know what Accel does in the smooth track settings.
 
Last edited:
Peter Majtan said:
Ditto here - works while powering Paralinx + C-Motion or ARRI follow-focus. Not sure what the issue is with the RRM.
I need to hear from anyone having issues with the RRM what other accessories are they powering from the break-out box...

:sifone: Peter
Click to expand...

So here's what I've tested and my conclusion: the redrock will run for a few minutes if it's the ONLY thing on the breakout. As soon as I hook in the USB for the Paralinx it just shuts off and restarts. If I run it by itself, it seems to still flash like crazy acting like battery is low but seems to work.

So I'm either stuck with a blind focus puller or slapping on a 24mm lens and never pulling focus :/
 
Hey Brock,

Just out of curiousity what if you power the Paralinx via our included P tap regulator?

or if you run the redrock by itself does it work?

if you are using v mount or gold mount batteries maybe run one accessory of that, other off the camera stage?
 
Joe Lawry said:
Right, Im getting the 'Please rebalance your camera' Message every time I try and auto tune.

My camera is 100% balanced. I've done this thousands of time with a Movi.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Which LCD cable do you use? I had the same issue with a regular Red LCD cable when the screen was positioned a bit too far on the handle.
With that adjusted or a thin cable, Auto Tune is correct every time now.
 
Joe Lawry said:
http://instagram.com/p/rVrQi4gzTi/

http://instagram.com/p/rVrTM8gzTp/

I think the Auto tune may have worked. I thought that the lens was meant to point down after it has finished but I now realise that is only when you do a Calibrate System.

The Deadband in SmoothTrack mode needs more work. Even set to 0 the 'window' of pan needed is way too large to be accurate.

I'd also love to know what Accel does in the smooth track settings.
Click to expand...

vincent kardasik said:
Which LCD cable do you use? I had the same issue with a regular Red LCD cable when the screen was positioned a bit too far on the handle.
With that adjusted or a thin cable, Auto Tune is correct every time now.
Click to expand...

Guys - no cables should be attached to the Camera while you are balancing and/or auto-tuning.
This would easily cause the auto-tune to fail.
Only once the auto-tune is finished - kill the motors, reconnect the cables, re-activate motors and off you go...

Joe - do you have any cables attached that are loose (LCD, power, etc...)?
Even loose HDMI cable between brain and the Paralinx will affect balance...

Again - the motors are strong enough to handle the cables after you have balanced and auto-tunned - it's just not the most optimal way to work...

:sifone: Peter
 
Brock S. said:
So here's what I've tested and my conclusion: the redrock will run for a few minutes if it's the ONLY thing on the breakout. As soon as I hook in the USB for the Paralinx it just shuts off and restarts. If I run it by itself, it seems to still flash like crazy acting like battery is low but seems to work.

So I'm either stuck with a blind focus puller or slapping on a 24mm lens and never pulling focus :/
Click to expand...

Then the RRM must be drawing a lot more then the specced 2 Amps. You might have a ceased (dust, dirt, etc...) or faulty motor.
If you have a way to measure the Amps drawn by the RRM - that would be the best way. If it draws more then the 2 Amps specced - send it to RRM for replacement / service...
The Ronin can handle 3 Amps on the P-taps (total combined). It looks like your RRM is drawing around the 3 Amps with that kind of behaviour...
Is the lens barrel smooth? Have you mounted the RRM too tight against the lens? Both would cause a spike in Amp draw from the RRM...

:sifone: Peter
 
Daniel Stilling said:
I have to say the same happens to me. I just went ahead and put in the values manually. about 20-25 for each axis.
And yes, the camera is 110% balanced. will stay put at any angle, and the power values are between 0-3 in all axis.
Click to expand...

Values around 20~25 are OK for 5D and the likes. RED would normally require stiffness above 60...
Again - please make sure no loose cables are attached (other then the Ronin's own).
Any other cables running between accessories on the camera (like the USB to power the Paralinx from the Ronin - or the HDMI from RED to Paralinx) need to be secured against the body of the camera so they don't move.
Any cables that run between camera and out of the gimbal (like the LCD cable to a monitor on the handles - even if the slim type) should be disconnected before physically balancing the camera or using the auto-tune...

:sifone: Peter
 
Hi Peter, thanks for the info, I think initially I had cables running to the gimbal. I will try without. The gimbal still tunes itself even when I get the 'please rebalance' message.

I shall disconnect HDMI and power when auto tuning from now on.
 
Joe Lawry said:
Hi Peter, thanks for the info, I think initially I had cables running to the gimbal. I will try without. The gimbal still tunes itself even when I get the 'please rebalance' message.

I shall disconnect HDMI and power when auto tuning from now on.
Click to expand...

Joe, is the HDMI from the camera to the Paralinx mounted on the camera within the gimbal? If so - do not disconnect it. Just make sure it is secured to the camera (tape, velcro, or zip-ties) so it doesn't move when you rotate the camera during balancing.
Ditto for any other cables that are part of the gimbal assembly - such as USB cable from Paralinx to the Ronin's break-out box.
Think of it this way - if you were to remove the Ronin from the quick release on top below the handles - anything that stays with the gimbal needs to be secured so it doesn't move.
Any other cables that connect the gimbal assembly to either support (like the handles), or external power (if you use belt-clip) - should all be disconnected from the gimbal side before balancing and/or auto-tunning / auto-calibrating...:

Ronin_gimbal_vs_support.jpg


:sifone: Peter
 
Peter Majtan said:
Values around 20~25 are OK for 5D and the likes. RED would normally require stiffness above 60...
Again - please make sure no loose cables are attached (other then the Ronin's own).
Peter
Click to expand...

Doesn't that defeat the purpose of the auto tune though? Isn't it for the gimbal to measure how much pressure the motors are under with for example: faulty balance, cable strain, etc? so it can exert the necessary force to counteract these issues?
The only cable I have running is the ultra thin cable for the RED monitor. All the rest is firmly secured on the gimbal. I'll try without it, but it seems to me then that the auto tune is cheated out of knowing what is really going on with the load it's caring.

The way I got to 20-25 as the values was to on each axis push the camera physically and then se it return by itself to neutral without too much wobble. With high numbers the motors start making a little noise and it feels like they are getting pushed too hard. Is that not the case?
 
Daniel, the problem with the LCD cable is that the force is not equal as you change the orientation of the camera.
This is why the auto-tune and auto-calibration will report that the camera is not balanced.
The force from the cable is sure not a big deal for the motors to handle - but it does kill the balance for the auto-functions.
This is why you need to disconnect it to have a properly balanced camera.
Once tuned - you can plug it back and the motors will handle the changes in balance as the camera moves.
This is opposite of "cheating".
When the camera is properly balanced - you can gently blow on it and it will move.
Just imagine how the cable is upsetting the balance.
The auto-tune is not there to fix / adjust for imbalance in the camera caused by loose items attached to it.
It can't tune the gimbal if the forces change as you move the camera.
That's like trying to balance a helicopter with a lose barrel half full of oil rolling about in the back...

:sifone: Peter
 
Peter Majtan said:
Guys - no cables should be attached to the Camera while you are balancing and/or auto-tuning.
This would easily cause the auto-tune to fail.
Only once the auto-tune is finished - kill the motors, reconnect the cables, re-activate motors and off you go...

Joe - do you have any cables attached that are loose (LCD, power, etc...)?
Even loose HDMI cable between brain and the Paralinx will affect balance...

Again - the motors are strong enough to handle the cables after you have balanced and auto-tunned - it's just not the most optimal way to work...

:sifone: Peter
Click to expand...

Thanks Peter, good to know!
 
Just received the Ronin also and have exact the same issue as Daniel and Joe. When i'm using autotune the app puts it around 63 or it says re-balance camera (and motors get microshakes and make noise)
if worked quite alot with the movi that just worked when it was in pretty good balance.

When moved to around 30 for stiffness of all 3 motors it all feels alot better. Also really 100% sure i balanced it well, the numbers in the app are right, camera stays in every position... I have nothing attached to the camera, just plain camera and lens. Checked that everything was locked tightly. This doesn't really give me confidence yet, what could be the issue?
 
what camera/ lens are you using? if you are getting vibes you might need to use the lens bracket;)
Max M. said:
Just received the Ronin also and have exact the same issue as Daniel and Joe. When i'm using autotune the app puts it around 63 or it says re-balance camera (and motors get microshakes and make noise)
if worked quite alot with the movi that just worked when it was in pretty good balance.

When moved to around 30 for stiffness of all 3 motors it all feels alot better. Also really 100% sure i balanced it well, the numbers in the app are right, camera stays in every position... I have nothing attached to the camera, just plain camera and lens. Checked that everything was locked tightly. This doesn't really give me confidence yet, what could be the issue?
Click to expand...
 
What Vincent have said - most vibrations are cause when larger mass (like lens) is not attached tightly to the camera.
The Canon EF mount / lenses are a good example of this. This is explained well in the User Manual.
If you are using the RED EF mount - makes sure you tighten the mount with the locking ring.
Also some lenses have the front sections / elements a bit loose - especially the cheaper ones.
This is where you need to use the lens bracket...
The camera with all its accessories (and lens) has to me a solid homogenous mass, or you will get vibrations...

:sifone: Peter
 
i'm using a bare red dragon with a 32mm cooke panchro lens without any cables, power, sidehandle or anything attached, just for testing. It works ok when i dial down the stiffness. I would think i need the lens bracket, it's a pretty small lens attached through pl mount, there's no play... That shouldn't be the problem...i find it strange the autotune settings make the isssue worse than manual mode.
 
Same as what 3 other users have already described, I get the same error "camera is unbalanced" after using autotune when in fact the rig is 100% balanced with no wires attached. The camera rig is on the light side though and I assume that is the problem since the ronin was designed more with Red cameras 9+ lbs configurations in mind.

After receiving the error message, I just read the vibration chart and it was the tilt axis (`10-30 degrees of oscillation) that the autotune turned up too high so i just turned it down to half of what it was and the camera stabilized fine.

So my advice check the degree/vibration chart and adjust accordingly.

The bigger issue I've been having is the smoothtrack mode. The camera will not read my panning turns with precision no matter what the deadpan or speed settings are. it's very frustrating coming from an experienced MoVi user where my pans and tilts are rapidly read and transmitted to gimbal movement. It's mainly just the pan. Tilt seemed to work fine the couple times i tried to use it.

I was flying a BMPCC with rokinon 16mm and a tilta cage putting the camera around 6 or 7 pounds and the pan axis wouldn't consistently turn when i wanted it to. Stiffness was 65+ for pan 30 for tilt and 50 for roll. Anyone else having issues with the smoothtrack function? Can anyone else give their opinion with a comparison to their experience with the MoVi like mine or could it just be my unit?

Also, another oddball problem. First time testing + configuring the gimbal in the app, the motors freaked out and the whole thing started violently spinning and beeping (I was like Skynet!?!?!). I killed the motors then checked all the settings. For some reason the app spontaneously changed all of the stiffness settings. Pan to 20, tilt to -1, and roll stiffness to a whopping 248! I'm well aware that this is a bug that will likely be fixed in a future firmware upgrade but i thought that it'd be worth mentioning.

Apart from the easily fixable firmware problems I've listed, the Ronin is 1000% more well thought out than the MoVi in terms of design.

Salud a todos!
 
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