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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Custom Steadicam for REDusers <1800USD - Post your ideas

Not intending to be mean Vitally, sorry if it came across that way. Glad to see that there would be upgrade paths via Laing. All best.
 
Can Laing also investigate options for wet weather cover for all components?

ARM COVERS can be improvised from "hiking gaitors" (i.e. elastic ankle protectors) or can be more customised with velcro/drawstrings. Ideally allowing access to arm adjustment knobs. Discussion on steadicam forum at http://www.steadicamforum.com/index.php?showtopic=16263 .... Sample of commercial product --> http://www.steaditools.com/sale_cover.htm

SLED BASE / MONITOR COVERS shown at http://www.cameraessentials.com/steadicam_weather_protectors.htm

FULL RIG STANDBY COVERS shown at http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/446790-REG/Harrison_1033_Standby_Cover_Large.html or with better description and photos on http://www.steadimoves.com/parts.html (Made from similar lightweight "PVC + cotton?" material used for motorbike covers)

CAMERA SPECIFIC COVERS ... Maybe Red users know of commercial option for various size camera rigs?
 
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Another view of an angled "arm hook" is shown on the Glidecam HD series docking bracket at: http://www.glidecam.com/product-hd-series-docking-bracket.php ... I think this is worth considering in the design as a safety feature.

For the Laing arm to be hung from any pin (horizontal or angled), it would be an idea to have a small loop of heavy duty stitched fabric attached to the arm somewhere ... either at the arm post or the socket block end. One example is shown at: http://www.steadicamforum.com/uploads/monthly_11_2012/post-12511-0-40366400-1352304824_thumb.jpg

This is becasue the base of the Laing arm post has a bearing in it, not a hollow section.
 
Chris, thanks for your suggestions. We'll certainly discuss them and add to later plans.
 
I like the way things are developing, Vitaliy. If there winds up being a 6-pin power lemo implementation of any kind, how do you see it developing? You mentioned already that the only battery plates supporting this are those with a short 6-pin captive cable coming out of the side, so should we assume that if you want to use 6-pin lemos for smart power that that special battery plate will be an option and you'll have to wire the post on your own with a 6-pin connector on each end to reach the camera? Or would a 6-pin lemo port be substituted on the upper and lower boxes for one of the dual 2-pin ports we see in the photos?
 
If there winds up being a 6-pin power lemo implementation of any kind, how do you see it developing? You mentioned already that the only battery plates supporting this are those with a short 6-pin captive cable coming out of the side, so should we assume that if you want to use 6-pin lemos for smart power that that special battery plate will be an option and you'll have to wire the post on your own with a 6-pin connector on each end to reach the camera? Or would a 6-pin lemo port be substituted on the upper and lower boxes for one of the dual 2-pin ports we see in the photos?
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6 pin connector option has multiple issues in implementation.
First, two connector options exist (Red One and newer Epic/Scarlet).
Second, Red uses quite rare modification of 6 pin LEMO connector.

So, I need to understand that solution will be best suited.
As I understand, Epic comes with short cable converting old connector to new one, so let me know if hacing two Red One standard 6-pin LEMOs on boxes will be ok.
Also, let me know about any steadicams that have suitable 6 pin connectors on their power boxes.
 
Vitaliy Kiselev said:
6 pin connector option has multiple issues in implementation.
First, two connector options exist (Red One and newer Epic/Scarlet).
Second, Red uses quite rare modification of 6 pin LEMO connector.

So, I need to understand that solution will be best suited.
As I understand, Epic comes with short cable converting old connector to new one, so let me know if hacing two Red One standard 6-pin LEMOs on boxes will be ok.
Also, let me know about any steadicams that have suitable 6 pin connectors on their power boxes.
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I'm an Epic owner only, never used the RED One, although I'm vaguely familiar with the fact that they use a different lemo. Maybe I'm the only one really worrying about this(?), in which case it doesn't make sense for anyone to alter boxes and battery plates. Can others who are interested in 6-pin power from the base of the sled pipe in here so we can see what the numbers are?

If it's just me, I'm just as happy to use my existing Switronix battery plate that's mounted to a quickback and goes on and off the camera in less than a second, put a proprietary RED v-mount receiver on the Laing double battery plate in place of one of v-mount battery plates to accept the Switronix with quickback, and then run a 6-pin to 6-pin lemo cable that I purchase on my own through the post.

I'm wondering if that would wipe out using the boxes for me, though? I wouldn't mind having nice, tidy connectors for HDI-SI and/or HDMI at top and bottom of the sled, and I don't want to lose the bubble level that's shown on the new bottom box. If you use the boxes, is there a way to also still run a cable or two through the post on your own? Where would it exit at top and bottom of the sled relative to the pictures you posted showing the new (not yet powder coated) boxes?
 
If you use the boxes, is there a way to also still run a cable or two through the post on your own? Where would it exit at top and bottom of the sled relative to the pictures you posted showing the new (not yet powder coated) boxes?
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We want to allow you do run your cables.

May be we could make special mod of boxes with 6 pin connector. My understanding is that to save you on cables bottom box connector must be like on Epic (so you can use existing plates or connectors made for Epic), and top one like on Red (so you can use supplied cable).
 
I don't recall any of the power cables your mentioning shipping with my camera, can you clarify. Personally, I just want a clean solution to be able to go from the battery plate to the bottom box and then the top box direct into an epic/scarlet, straight out of the box with no other adapters needed. Smart Data being transmitted doesn't matter to me.
 
I don't recall any of the power cables your mentioning shipping with my camera, can you clarify. Personally, I just want a clean solution to be able to go from the battery plate to the bottom box and then the top box direct into an epic/scarlet, straight out of the box with no other adapters needed. Smart Data being transmitted doesn't matter to me.
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Thing that I reference is the power converter cable that is included, by the word of some owners.

About power, it'll be D-Tap to LEMO-2pin cable, box-box, and LEMO-2pin to LEMO-6pin cable. LEMO-2pin to LEMO-6pin cable is different fro red one and epic.
 
Vitaliy Kiselev said:
Thing that I reference is the power converter cable that is included, by the word of some owners.

About power, it'll be D-Tap to LEMO-2pin cable, box-box, and LEMO-2pin to LEMO-6pin cable. LEMO-2pin to LEMO-6pin cable is different fro red one and epic.
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Can you send me a link to this cable? I did not get one with my camera.
 
Vitaliy Kiselev said:
Thing that I reference is the power converter cable that is included, by the word of some owners.

About power, it'll be D-Tap to LEMO-2pin cable, box-box, and LEMO-2pin to LEMO-6pin cable. LEMO-2pin to LEMO-6pin cable is different fro red one and epic.
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I don't think that the converter cable is included (2B to 1B). Easiest solution would be to let every buyer choose whether he wants an Epic or RED one cable.

Also I would not recommend a D-Tap to 2pin Lemo to connect the battery plate(s) to the d-box, since D-Tap is not a super reliable connector (in my experience) and I'm not sure for how many amps it's rated. I think it's best to use a cable which comes straight out of the battery plate(s) and connect it via 2pin Lemo to the d-box.
 
Also I would not recommend a D-Tap to 2pin Lemo to connect the battery plate(s) to the d-box, since D-Tap is not a super reliable connector (in my experience) and I'm not sure for how many amps it's rated. I think it's best to use a cable which comes straight out of the battery plate(s) and connect it via 2pin Lemo to the d-box.
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It is absolutely enough in power ratings and it is not less releable than any other options (or you also do not like your batteries pins?).
 
Vitaliy Kiselev said:
It is absolutely enough in power ratings and it is not less releable than any other options (or you also do not like your batteries pins?).
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I agree with David, not a big fan of going D-Tap to Lemo. Why not just have a Lemo straight out of battery plate? Or even an XLR Power... Seems like an odd way of doing it...
 
Vitaliy Kiselev said:
Tyler, I just told you how it'll be done. You are free to like it or not.
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Vitaliy, I'm repeating myself here, but you should really rethink your attitude. If a lot of potential buyers want a good instead of a "should-be-ok" solution, you might want to listen to them.
 
D-tap is 70Wh max (says so on every battery with a dtap connector.)

Scarlet is 60Wh BRAIN-only... Epic is more than that (70-75?)... Not sure what R1 is. More over, the plate should have a wired Lemo for camera, while the d-tap is reserved for monitor power and low-draw accessories (wireless FF, etc). Any other configuration than that will require more (and expensive) cabling or duct tape and gum, mcguyver-type solutions... Or the j and d-box essentially become mandatory.

In either of those cases, I dOubt it'll be a smart (% read out) connection.
 
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