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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Custom Steadicam for REDusers <1800USD - Post your ideas

01- Both Sring need to be much Stronger then current version. In my experience, current version isn't suitable to lift more then 20lbs (beware REDone user)

Springs you are referring is not current version, it is older M-02 design. Proper springs and testing of heavy loads had beep priority number one.

Both adjustable knobs on ARM must be rotate without tool, there is no way you can tune ARM without tool once your sled attached/lift Please check this video for hint (how easy tuning). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MC3yExbb_kg

Fully agree. Thanks for video. Do you have some photos of best hand screws solutions for arm, I mean - in your opionon?

All FOUR knobs in this MUST be rotate with fingertips. Specially the round (inner) one. Round knobs are imposible to rotate

Also agree. Here also photos/sketches can help.
 
hopefully there will be some photos showing implementations on modifications. I seriously hope they did beef up the diameter of the post as most people have addressed as an issue.
 
Springs you are referring is not current version, it is older M-02 design. Proper springs and testing of heavy loads had beep priority number one.

HUmmm.... This is strange, Why would he send me older version M-02. Joey (from Came) knew that I was testing for Redusers.

Vitally, Can you arrange me New version "Springs". I really need to test if this is true. The one what I have isn't stronge enough for 20lbs for sure.
 
Following items are very important and must be modified .
03- I must say, this piece is forcing me to call it Garbage (jus' jokin').

All FOUR knobs in this MUST have rotational motion on a threaded axis by your fingertips. Specially the round (inner) ones. Round knobs are imposible to rotate if your sled attached/lift with ARM. You will have to either lift the sled so high (which is incredibly dangerous) or put your Sled back to the C-stand (lol),

Those round knobs (the knobs in the arm-side of the socket block) are not going to be adjustable while wearing the rig. It simply isn't possible, with the tension that is on them. All rigs that have that sort of socket block, including Tiffen and other brands, make you dock the rig or take all the weight off the arm before your adjust those. It's the tradeoff for not needing a tool - if those had a tool to adjust them (like on older Steadicam arms), they would be adjustable while flying.
 
Vitally, Can you arrange me New version "Springs". I really need to test if this is true. The one what I have isn't stronge enough for 20lbs for sure.

Sent PM.
 
hy Tom long time time and glad you are poped on this forum.
Tom is a man that started off from scratch making his first rigs, if Iam not mistaken and is another Tom hehe, good to see you, people will gather a lot of info from you.
regards
 
As requested, I have re-posted the following comment which appeared in another thread http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?95982-Steadicam-Group-Buy-Select-your-model/page9

Currently the [Laing] post is wide enough to pass one Scarlet Lemo, one BNC, one USB female. I could get a HDMI in there as well, but the HDMI would have to run first. Getting cables though the post is a 15 minute job, assuming you need to remove the stage. Running cables is a non-issue. The big benefit I see to a wider post is for the larger dia hand grip, makes panning and position control easier. Wider post = wider gimbal, which means new gimbal design. In the case of Laing, I would stick with the stock model, as it is a smoking value at list price. If you can get it for less via GB even better.

Thanks David! Great to know a lot of cables can be run! Sounds like open architecture is the way to go, and eliminate the fuss of J-boxes.

"Wider post = wider gimbal" ... not necessarily so

If the inner diameter of the Laing post is sufficient for peoples' cabling needs but they still want the feel of a larger diameter post, they just have to find a way to add diameter to the "gimbal sleeve" (i.e. the actual area that you place fingers on).

This can be done with rigid materials (e.g. standard PVC 2-inch plumbing pipe has an ideal outer diameter, but we would have to check specs of current gimbal sleeve as to compatible diameters, whether it can slide over easily, if it needs packing, etc ... and of course the fitting of this requires the ability to remove gimbal from post by removing all hardware from one end of the post). Photos and calliper measurements of current sleeve would be handy if anyone has the time or existing references.

Some operators (with other commericial and DIY rigs) have had success adding soft materials like foam sleeving and tennis racket grip tape to the gimbal sleeve. This creates a different friction feel for the fingers, and is entirely down to preference. Soft material might adversely affect fine control over some panning movements like whip pans where you rely on the post sliding smoothly through your fist. Conversely, soft material may be an advantage for instance in very cold conditions (for numb fingers) or in hot conditions (for sweaty fingers).
 
I also emailed Tracy at Laing regarding the docking bracket which I believe has been issued without a locking device to hold the post. I recommended the standard Steadicam solution of an aircraft pin, or as they appear on ebay, better known as "Quick release locking pin", ball type.
 
I also emailed Tracy at Laing regarding the docking bracket which I believe has been issued without a locking device to hold the post. I recommended the standard Steadicam solution of an aircraft pin, or as they appear on ebay, better known as "Quick release locking pin", ball type.

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You mean this?
 
Constantine, this is post exactly for topic where we had been :-)

This is one about Laing :-)
 
hy Tom long time time and glad you are poped on this forum.
Tom is a man that started off from scratch making his first rigs, if Iam not mistaken and is another Tom hehe, good to see you, people will gather a lot of info from you.
regards

Absolutely it is me, from all the way back on HBS with my rigs I was building as a teenager, to now flying a PRO rig with a Klassen harness. I will say though, I still take apart my sled pretty regularly and mod it - lately been doing a lot to the electrical systems to make it more to my liking. Thanks for the compliment too! I've spent a lot of time studying these rigs, and working with them, and I do what I can to help pass that information on to those who are newer than me. Fantastic to see you over here too, and that you're still working on crazy new contraptions! Great to see.
 
Those round knobs (the knobs in the arm-side of the socket block) are not going to be adjustable while wearing the rig. It simply isn't possible, with the tension that is on them. All rigs that have that sort of socket block, including Tiffen and other brands, make you dock the rig or take all the weight off the arm before your adjust those. It's the tradeoff for not needing a tool - if those had a tool to adjust them (like on older Steadicam arms), they would be adjustable while flying.
Hi Tom. I realize you are an experienced operator and so I don't doubt what you're saying here. But did you look at the video Kwan linked to?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MC3yExbb_kg

The operator appears to be doing exactly what you say is not possible. Is this just because he's using a lightweight rig? And/or perhaps because he's physically lifting the sled weight off the springs before adjustment? Just trying to understand the apparent contradiction here. Thanks.
 
Hi Tom. I realize you are an experienced operator and so I don't doubt what you're saying here. But did you look at the video Kwan linked to?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MC3yExbb_kg

The operator appears to be doing exactly what you say is not possible. Is this just because he's using a lightweight rig? And/or perhaps because he's physically lifting the sled weight off the springs before adjustment? Just trying to understand the apparent contradiction here. Thanks.

Hey Mike,

No worries - I think you just misinterpreted which knobs I'm talking about. I've highlighted the ones with red arrows that cannot be adjusted while flying. Everything else does need to be adjusted while flying, but the knobs I'm pointing to simply can't be. The ones that Peter is using in that video should be some of the easiest knobs to adjust on a properly designed arm.
 

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Thanks Tom. Now I get it. I can see why those particular knobs would be impossible to adjust while loaded.
 
Someone posted a general thread about (large) body size and vest fit, but I thought I'd post here from the opposite view point because this has occurred to me. I'm female, obviously, 5'7" and 125 pounds. My shoulders and chest are not going to be as large as a man of even a very light weight like 150 pounds. Will the vest of the Laing be adjustable to the point that it can fit me as snugly as it should? I can provide actual tape measure sizes for chest and waist, if that's necessary.
 
Someone posted a general thread about (large) body size and vest fit, but I thought I'd post here from the opposite view point because this has occurred to me. I'm female, obviously, 5'7" and 125 pounds. My shoulders and chest are not going to be as large as a man of even a very light weight like 150 pounds. Will the vest of the Laing be adjustable to the point that it can fit me as snugly as it should? I can provide actual tape measure sizes for chest and waist, if that's necessary.

That was me, very nice to know you and hope this vests can suit we all :)

Cheers

Jean

P.S. Sopranos was the best show ever
 
That was me, very nice to know you and hope this vests can suit we all :)

Cheers

Jean

P.S. Sopranos was the best show ever

Hi Jean, yes I read your thread but didn't want to take it over with my question, especially since I'm mainly interested in the Laing and not the Proline. As my signature reveals, I'm with you on The Sopranos. A work of art that will (and should) be studied in film schools for many decades to come.:smile5:
 
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