Contax Zeiss Survival Guide

[Nick Morrison]

Hi men,

I'm finally using my two contaxes zooms! 35-70 and 80-200. Love it!
I have noticed something on my gear and I want to ask something to you experts:

a. I'm using a fotodiox adapter on EF on my RED EPIC MX (EF MOUNT). I have to say it's really more stable of what I was expecting, but I noticed (overall in the 35-70) that it's quite hard to focus, overall at the infinity. And images look always softer that I was expecting... Could be the adapter?
b. The zoom barrel of the 35-70 is quite hard to push on wide. It's like physically difficult to push, hard resistance. Is there a way to make it softer?
c. I would like to put a variable ND on them, converting the front of the lenses on the same diameter. Do you think Cordvision can help me?
d. I would probably buy a 18-35 Sigma to complete the set (I need wide and light), whinh grade of BPM you suggest to me?

Thanks for any advice guys.

I love contaxes!

Bye.

In regards the focus, yes some of the 35-70 zoom barrels can be quite stiff as you zoom them in and out. We have three of these zooms, and two are great, but one is a bit stiff, even after sending it to a lens tech to fix. Something about the dampening inside drying out with age.

However the images should not be soft - it's a razor sharp lens. Remember, it just won't quite as much contrast as a modern lens, but don't confuse that for lack of sharpness.

Cordvision is great for front threads, yes.

The Sigma 18-35 is a great idea, usually a 1/8 BPM should work fine to match.

Good luck.

 

[Nick Morrison]

I believe the 60mm Planar - S (1:1) is only AE. The 60mm planar - C (1:2) is an MM. The 100mm macro is also brilliant.

What William said.

AFAIK, the 60mm 1:1 was only made in AE, even though many were probably manufactured with MM era coatings. Remember, AE vs MM is also a mechanical distinction, so some lenses designed in AE were just never updated with MM mechanics.

 

[Nick Morrison]

Thanks William. I have the mysterious third flavor, the full sized 60mm that came after the S variant. I’ve been doing lens tests over the last couple days, and this rare lens is really odd. Amazing and odd. Here are some observations:

At f2.8 there is a ton of light pollution inside the lens. The iris actually lifts up out of view at f2.8, so at f2.8 the light is only controlled by the housing. Colors are washed out and the image is only somewhat sharp. Really strange, the C model does not behave like this at all.

Then closed down one stop to f4, this thing is the sharpest lens I’be ever seen. Much nicer than the C version. Except! Except for the weird ninja bocca at f4. The iris doesn’t fit together cleanly at f4 (and only at this stop). So while the image is sharp the bocca is ugly as sin.

Then closed down to f5.6 the iris blades finally come together and make perfectly fine bocca. Lens is sharp as a tack and looks amazing.

I haven’t seen anything posted about this online (the ninja stars at f4) but my copy is in perfect condition, it doesn’t seem to be a problem with just this copy. If anyone else could confirm this weird iris behavior I would appreciate it.

AFAIK the 60mm S-Planar is an early version of the 60mm 1:1, I'm guessing with very early coatings (so they may flare a lot, and get milky wide open). Whats the serial number?

 

[William Long]

Jim, I took a look at both my AE 60mm S-planar and my AE100mm macro. Both of them display Ninja star at f4, it is barely perceptible at f5.6 and non-existent thereafter. Wide open the iris is gone on both of them, has left the building like Elvis! )

If you wish to compare, these are the serial numbers:
AE 60mm S - 6162180
AE 100mm - 7524663

 

[Jim Skinner]

Jim, I took a look at both my AE 60mm S-planar and my AE100mm macro. Both of them display Ninja star at f4, it is barely perceptible at f5.6 and non-existent thereafter. Wide open the iris is gone on both of them, has left the building like Elvis! )

If you wish to compare, these are the serial numbers:
AE 60mm S - 6162180
AE 100mm - 7524663

Thank you so much William, I will stop worrying that I have some kind of defect, and start enjoying this unique, exquisite lens.

 

[Scotty Fox]

Cine Mod Done - BUT a problem!?

Cine Mod Done - BUT a problem!?

Hey All,

I recently finished the Cine Mod through Duclos Lenses (dampened, de-clicked, Leitax EF mount conversion, etc.) for my set of Zeiss Contax. They're awesome, but I've noticed an issue and want to see if anyone else has experienced or dealt with this (sorry if this was addressed in previous posts - still trying to skim through it all).

Was trying them out on a GH5 with a Metabones SB Ultra... I did some searching, and I'm pretty sure I'm seeing some issues with the aperture not behaving correctly. It freezes when I stop down, and depending on the lens, I lose a stop or sometimes several, where the blades just won't respond after a certain point. I want to say it was the worst on the 35mm. From what I can tell this happens to the AEG's, not the MM's (I have the 21 mmj).

When I take the lenses off, the aperture blades respond perfectly when adjusting.

Is this a compatibility issue with the speedbooster? A problem with the Leitax mount? Or was there something faulty about the Cine Mod that was done?

I don't have an EF hard mount camera around otherwise I'd try them on that... so far I've only used these on the Metabones SB.

**UPDATE** After reading different forums I’m seeing a lot of info about the aperture lever and pieces of metal on the back of the lens. People are having to shave them down for the lenses to work correctly on the speedboosters. Assuming that’s correct is the focus lever then, and that other piece of metal sticking out, useless for lens operation on digital cameras? Why are they there in the first place. For C/Y mount cameras?

Thanks in advance for any info.

 

[David W. Jones]

Just an FYI to those that may be interested.
I'm getting ready to sell my prime lens set as part of my continuing retirement sale.

Zeiss Contax 18mm f4.0
Zeiss Flektogon 20mm f2.8
Zeiss Contax 25mm f2.8
Zeiss Contax 28mm f2.8
Zeiss Contax 28mm f2.0
Zeiss Contax 35mm f2.8
Zeiss Contax 35mm f1.4
Zeiss Contax 45mm f2.8
Zeiss Contax 50mm f1.4 MM
Zeiss Contax 50mm f1.4 AE
Zeiss Contax 60mm f2.8 Macro
Zeiss Contax 85mm f1.4
Zeiss Contax 100mm f2.0
Zeiss Contax 135mm f2.8
Zeiss Contax 200mm f3.5
Zeiss Contax Mutar I 2X

These will be sold as a set in 2 iM2500 Storm Cases, and not sold individually.
A great opportunity to get both a Zeiss Standard Speed look, and a Zeiss Super Speed look at a great price, as these lenses have the same lens coatings.
I will provide more info in the near future, along with photos.
If anyone wants to swipe the entire set before they hit market, send me a message with your offer.




All the best!

Dave

 

[David W. Jones]

Contax lens set now available..... http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?168755-Zeiss-Contax-Prime-Lens-Set

 

[Ian D'Amelia]

Hello all,

I have a 28mm F2.0 AEG which no longer will focus to infinity. Any experience with this? Recommended shops that will work on Contax?

Thanks!

 

[steven strobel]

Hello all,

I have a 28mm F2.0 AEG which no longer will focus to infinity. Any experience with this? Recommended shops that will work on Contax?

Thanks!

When my 28 f2 needed repair earlier this year I took it to Steve's camera https://www.stevecamera.com/ they did a great job. it was rather expensive but if you pay cash they give you a discount.

 

[Georgios Tryfonas]

Hey All,

I recently finished the Cine Mod through Duclos Lenses (dampened, de-clicked, Leitax EF mount conversion, etc.) for my set of Zeiss Contax. They're awesome, but I've noticed an issue and want to see if anyone else has experienced or dealt with this (sorry if this was addressed in previous posts - still trying to skim through it all).

Was trying them out on a GH5 with a Metabones SB Ultra... I did some searching, and I'm pretty sure I'm seeing some issues with the aperture not behaving correctly. It freezes when I stop down, and depending on the lens, I lose a stop or sometimes several, where the blades just won't respond after a certain point. I want to say it was the worst on the 35mm. From what I can tell this happens to the AEG's, not the MM's (I have the 21 mmj).

When I take the lenses off, the aperture blades respond perfectly when adjusting.

Is this a compatibility issue with the speedbooster? A problem with the Leitax mount? Or was there something faulty about the Cine Mod that was done?

I don't have an EF hard mount camera around otherwise I'd try them on that... so far I've only used these on the Metabones SB.

**UPDATE** After reading different forums I’m seeing a lot of info about the aperture lever and pieces of metal on the back of the lens. People are having to shave them down for the lenses to work correctly on the speedboosters. Assuming that’s correct is the focus lever then, and that other piece of metal sticking out, useless for lens operation on digital cameras? Why are they there in the first place. For C/Y mount cameras?

Thanks in advance for any info.

This is indeed caused by the aperature pins. The pin touches the speedbooster and it's stuck. There are there so that the original cameras can set the aperature automatically by moving the lever mechanically. These are not needed by modern cameras of course.
Shaving off the pins is one drastic solution that works. You can actually just cut it with a simple cutting tool. It's safer. There is a way to remove them properly by opening the lenses something not that difficult especially now that the old screws were removed during leitax installation. This can differ from AE to MM. MM are generally easier.

 

[Patrick Monaghan]

Hey Georgios. I have the same problem with my set of Contax lenses, I too am wanting to modify them to work with my speedbooster. So are you saying cutting them off is easier than grinding them with something like a dremmel? What sort of tool would you need for this (pardon my lack of handiness).. I'm really nervous about doing this modification to my pristine collection of lenses... Is it just the pin that needs removing or is it also the larger guard that also protrudes at the back of the lens? Do both parts obstruct the speedbooster? Most of my lenses are MM, would it be worth sending to my lens tech to see if he can remove the protruding elements (pin & guard)?

 

[steven strobel]

Hey Georgios. I have the same problem with my set of Contax lenses, I too am wanting to modify them to work with my speedbooster. So are you saying cutting them off is easier than grinding them with something like a dremmel? What sort of tool would you need for this (pardon my lack of handiness).. I'm really nervous about doing this modification to my pristine collection of lenses... Is it just the pin that needs removing or is it also the larger guard that also protrudes at the back of the lens? Do both parts obstruct the speedbooster? Most of my lenses are MM, would it be worth sending to my lens tech to see if he can remove the protruding elements (pin & guard)?

Just chiming in here, I've modified my whole set myself. I taped very securely around the pin making sure it was tightly drawn and then taped around the pin making sure the lens was covered (cuting pieces of lens cloth to cover) making sure every opening was covered. I then purchased a very high grade hand file. secured the lens to my work bench and slowly, gently took the tabs down. I would stop when I saw shavings often and use the vacuum on them. I did that for my whole set of AE's SS's and they all work great. I'm very mechanically inclined tho. I've done all my mods and cleanings myself. I've only taken my 28 f2 in when I had something major I didn't want to attempt myself. Not sure what lens techs would attempt this but it may be worth a call to see.

 

[Georgios Tryfonas]

Hey Georgios. I have the same problem with my set of Contax lenses, I too am wanting to modify them to work with my speedbooster. So are you saying cutting them off is easier than grinding them with something like a dremmel? What sort of tool would you need for this (pardon my lack of handiness).. I'm really nervous about doing this modification to my pristine collection of lenses... Is it just the pin that needs removing or is it also the larger guard that also protrudes at the back of the lens? Do both parts obstruct the speedbooster? Most of my lenses are MM, would it be worth sending to my lens tech to see if he can remove the protruding elements (pin & guard)?

Hello Patrick. First I'm assuming you have the lenses Leitaxed; if not the same advice below should be still valid. Depending on the lenses it might be just the pin or both the pin and the guard. I would suggest you start with the pin and check how the lenses work. Always talking about MM lenses since I don't have experience with AE lenses. I was also very scared and a bit "turned off" to be honest when I got my first Contax Zeiss and was reading about all this pin situation and speedboosters. I was thinking why would I need to file or cut a perfectly fine lenses? And I was a bit scared about it as well. Turns out it feels more like fixing the lenses for our modern use rather than ruining them. Do mind this procedure is not just about speedboosters. Many DSLR users also need to take care of the pin and the guard otherwise the lens can damage the mirror.

The pin:
- Best option and the easiest and safest in my opinion is to simply cut off the pin slightly. I'm attaching an image of the simple tool I'm using - I have already cut the one in the photo by the way. It might take a little power to cut the metal pin and it probably won't cut in the first go. But every time you try you cut the metal a bit more so eventually it will cut. You can try swinging a bit left a right as well to make the cut deeper. You can cut it off as much as the Leitax mount allows you to. It will be more than enough to fit in the speedbooster. You might want to cover the back of the lenses with a cleaning cloth or something just in case.
- Second option is filling down the pin. It's not a bad idea but it's the less elegant in my opinion. The problem is that wherever that filing tool touches the black paint will come off. Also the pin moves, making it much harder to accurately file. As it was suggested by Steven above who has had great success with this method, you can tape things around and cover the rest of the lenses which makes things a little easier. But still you will be grinding some metal and you need to be really careful and make sure you clean well because you don't want any of the filled metal to touch your glass of course. I have done this on my first lenses after reading advice online and I was a bit in an agony during the procedure and I also slightly scratched the mount around the pin a bit. So if you do it this way make sure you really tape everything around the top well so the pin is steady and you don't scratch the paint of the mount off.
- The most elegant but also more complicated solution is to remove the pin completely. If you have the money and there is a local lens guy that would do it for you, this is an excellent option. For the sake of being complete I will explain here in case you want to do it on your own. The pin can be removed by taking off the Leitax mount and then the C/Y mount. The main lens can be covered and let alone away while working on the mount. If the aperture ring is removed you can simply add it back by paying attention that the aperture ring pin inserts properly into the aperture lever. The C/Y mount has two separable parts. The pin is part of the top part. Depending on the lenses it could be a little different but generally it involves some unscrewing and it might need a lens wrench for comfortable results. It's nothing complicated or dangerous for the operation of the lenses. You could technically just force the whole thing off (not recommended!) and everything would still be alright when you put the whole thing back as those parts are not even needed for modern filmmaking. I can't take the responsibility to suggest it though if you are not comfortable with opening the lenses in the first place. Do mind that this solution is completely not destructive and it means that one day you could be putting everything back together and sell that lens back to a photographer with an old Contax camera that will need those pins. That's if your lenses are already Leitaxed. A little warning in case your lenses are not Leitaxed already and you just have the original C/Y mounts: there is a large risk of stripping the original screws while attempting to unscrew the mount. There is a whole procedure for unscrewing the mount without risk the first time and a whole complex procedure for taking care of any stripped screws. You definitely don't want to go down this more complicated path unless you are interested in completely modding the lenses on your own.

The guard:
The guard can't be removed unless you remove the whole part of the mount letting some part of the lenses exposed. So cutting it or filing it is the better option. In some lenses it's plastic and can be easily cut. In others it's metallic and might be harder to cut so the best idea is to file it instead making sure you have put something over the back lens to protect it. Again it might not be a problem at all so make sure you test after taking care the pin and act accordingly.


In all cases, make sure you start off from your cheapest lenses of course. If you feel uncomfortable or not confident about something take it really really slow and maybe come back to it later. I think cutting is so simple, easy and not-dangerous so you should be fine!

 

[Andy Kolb]

Hi there,

I'll be in Tokyo next month and I'm trying to purchase some Zeiss Contax lenses.

Any ideas where to go? Any stores? Areas?

I'm thankful for any advice possible.

Thanks

 

[Ben Scott]

Hi all,

Every time I think I'm out, they pull me back in....

Building a new set from scratch, starting with another 28-85 (after I broke my old one) and a 100mm Planar F2.

Anyone bought one of those pricey 'mint' 35mm f1.4 MMJs on Ebay from Japan? Are they in as good condition as they seem?

 

[William Long]

Yes, I have bought quite a few lenses from Japan. My impression is that they are really reliable, their descriptions are often bordering on the pedantic - which is appreciated. No problems so far.

 

[Ben Scott]

Cool.

Used to love my old 35 f1.4 and I'd be paying almost twice as much as I originally did to secure a minty one. Buy once, cry once I guess....

 

[Jake Wilganowski]

The 35 speed is an absolutely gorgeous lens

 

[Ben Scott]

yep one of my faves. they've just gone up quite a bit!