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Contax Zeiss Survival Guide

An older Metabones speedbooster does not interfere with any of the pins when using CY lenses and Leitax mounts.

I've been using for about 3 years now, all with Leitax EF Mounts and Metabones EF-E (version 3 I believe) and the Metabones Speed Booster EF-E (Not sure on the version, but I believe it was the first or second gen):
21mm F2.8 MM
28mm F2 MM
35mm F1.4 MM
50mm F1.4 MM
60mm F2.8 AE
85mm F1.4 MM

I know that the newer E-EF Speedboosters interfere as well, but perhaps there is an older generation m4/3 to EF speedbooster that does not interfere.

The following are pics of the E-EF Speedbooster that does NOT interfere with the pins. Perhaps someone with a newer version can point out the physical differences someone can take note of when searching for one of these older adapters.

https://db.tt/5odhKFMuaO
https://db.tt/3JT4huza3P



Ryan Payne said:
Hey all,

Came across this thread a while back and it really peaked my interest. A great write up and I really like the look of those lens caps Birk Kromann!

I love little gems like this and like most things I'm extremely late to the party but I do love collecting and while I've read through some of the information I'm after, I'm looking for a bit more insight.

So while I don't own a Red camera myself, my set up is a little black magic micro cinema camera and the 0.58 EF speedbooster.

So my first question has to do with modding the C/Y mount over to EF with Leitax mounts, then shaving down any protruding metal to avoid contacting the speed boosters optical cell. Now I know getting a dumb adapter would be much easier but I like to have the speed booster bolted to the cage and on top of that 3x crop is just too damn much.

I found a post here of someone who did a similar thing. http://www.danmccomb.com/modify-contax-zeiss-lenses-metabones-speedbooster/

Here he ran into the issue of still breaking a pin event though he shaved down the metal. Is it simply because he missed shaving something down or is there something else to be aware of?
Secondly does anyone know how well the focus is kept using this method? If I can't get infinity there's not too much point I'd say.

From what I can see I want to be looking for MMJ models, green markings but what has me a little confused is the RTS mount. Are all MMJ lenses RTS mount? or is there something to look out for?

I'm looking into getting around 4 primes and 2 zooms if everything works out well with the speedbooster.

I notice some are way cheaper than others.

I like the look of,

21mm 2.8
35mm 1.4
50mm 1.4
85mm 1.4

I'd like a wider one but I'd read that they weren't quite as good?

I like the constant aperture zooms.
80-200mm (bit confused with this one, I've seen a couple different fstop version?)
35-70mm 3.4

Are these good picks? From what I've seen people seem to love the 21, 28 f2, 35 and 85 but some are just so expensive especially if I don't know it'l mount properly plus put more money into the convert. How well do the zooms go against the primes?

Considering I'd still have a 1.7 crop I think this selection will work well for me. Is there anything to be concerned about when converting them to EF? Also which Leitax wide/narrow mount is for which lens?

I'm thinking of starting with the 35-70 zoom or the 50mm since they are the cheaper of the bunch and working out how difficult it is to make fit on the speed booster.

Lastly does anyone know a good lens place to mod and service each lens I get along the way? I live in Melbourne Australia and can't seem to find a place that specializes.

Thank you all in advance and I'm sorry to drain you as I'm sure these have most likely been asked at some point!

Thanks.

Ryan.
Click to expand...
 
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Finally got a 50mm 1.4 prime after having tested (and loving) a couple of the Contax zooms, and damn... I really love these AE lenses. Thinking about going for a setup of 28mm f/2, 50mm f/1.4, and 85mm f/1.4 for a feature film shoot set entirely during the night.

Contax Zeiss 50mm 1.4 (at f/2) Ninja Star Bokeh by Matt Stuertz, on Flickr
 
Nick Morrison said:
Looks gorgeous. Isn't that bokeh great?
Click to expand...

Thanks Nick! Yeah, I definitely love it. Everyone I've showed a few images to so far can't wait to do more tests and shoot something with it. Love having the older unique look while also still being crazy sharp even pretty wide open. There's something special about them.
 
Matte Box with Contax Primes

Matte Box with Contax Primes

Hey team, I just purchased a second hand OConnor O-Box Matte Box for use with my set of Contax primes... I'm pumped. However, I tested a few of the lenses with it, and it seems a bit problematic... Because the lenses move/breath when you focus, the connection with the matte box 'bellows ring/donut' isn't great, it kinda pops in and out depending on where you set your focus. How do you guys combat this with your contax lenses and matte box set ups? I'd be interested to know, cheers.
 
Patrick Monaghan said:
Hey team, I just purchased a second hand OConnor O-Box Matte Box for use with my set of Contax primes... I'm pumped. However, I tested a few of the lenses with it, and it seems a bit problematic... Because the lenses move/breath when you focus, the connection with the matte box 'bellows ring/donut' isn't great, it kinda pops in and out depending on where you set your focus. How do you guys combat this with your contax lenses and matte box set ups? I'd be interested to know, cheers.
Click to expand...

You need a flex ring to replace the hard ring. Like this one.
https://www.brighttangerine.com/gbp/store/143mm-black-hole-donut.html?___SID=U
 
Thanks Steve. Is the plastic/rubber on this one real flexible?? Does it grip well onto the Cordvision fronts?
 
For the sake of completeness, I have recently evaluated both the 35-70 and 28-85 zooms to determine the size of the image circles they project.

Between 28 and 31 mm, the 28-85's image circle allows for only 1-2 mm of rise/fall/shift movements -- which is effectively none! -- increasing to only 2-3 mm from 35 to 65 mm, which is the range where I would be working most of the time. So regardless of its image quality, it's a non-starter for my purposes. :frown:

At 35mm/f8/infinity focus, the 35-70's image circle is large enough to provide for 2-3mm of rise/fall movement on my A7R's 24x36 sensor before vignetting starts to become visible.

At 40mm/f8/infinity focus, however, this increases to approx. 7-8mm; at 50mm, it's more like 9-10mm, and thereafter, it increases to at least 12mm, with a brief bump to 15mm somewhere between 60-65mm.

And on top of that, the image quality is very, very good, too! :hurray:
 
Jeff Goggin said:
For the sake of completeness, I have recently evaluated both the 35-70 and 28-85 zooms to determine the size of the image circles they project.

Between 28 and 31 mm, the 28-85's image circle allows for only 1-2 mm of rise/fall/shift movements -- which is effectively none! -- increasing to only 2-3 mm from 35 to 65 mm, which is the range where I would be working most of the time. So regardless of its image quality, it's a non-starter for my purposes. :frown:

At 35mm/f8/infinity focus, the 35-70's image circle is large enough to provide for 2-3mm of rise/fall movement on my A7R's 24x36 sensor before vignetting starts to become visible.

At 40mm/f8/infinity focus, however, this increases to approx. 7-8mm; at 50mm, it's more like 9-10mm, and thereafter, it increases to at least 12mm, with a brief bump to 15mm somewhere between 60-65mm.

And on top of that, the image quality is very, very good, too! :hurray:
Click to expand...

Haha, yeah the 35-70 is terrific. Have fun.
 
Jeff Goggin said:
For the sake of completeness, I have recently evaluated both the 35-70 and 28-85 zooms to determine the size of the image circles they project.

Between 28 and 31 mm, the 28-85's image circle allows for only 1-2 mm of rise/fall/shift movements -- which is effectively none! -- increasing to only 2-3 mm from 35 to 65 mm, which is the range where I would be working most of the time. So regardless of its image quality, it's a non-starter for my purposes. :frown:

At 35mm/f8/infinity focus, the 35-70's image circle is large enough to provide for 2-3mm of rise/fall movement on my A7R's 24x36 sensor before vignetting starts to become visible.

At 40mm/f8/infinity focus, however, this increases to approx. 7-8mm; at 50mm, it's more like 9-10mm, and thereafter, it increases to at least 12mm, with a brief bump to 15mm somewhere between 60-65mm.

And on top of that, the image quality is very, very good, too! :hurray:
Click to expand...

Amazing! - what a shame I can't do shift + infinity focus on the Canon 5Ds as I really want a 70-ish shift lens for one of my current projects.
 
Putting general feelers out there for a Contax Zeiss 28mm f2 (MM). Not even sure what the market value for one of these is right now. Thanks!
 
RJ_Ortiz said:
Putting general feelers out there for a Contax Zeiss 28mm f2 (MM). Not even sure what the market value for one of these is right now. Thanks!
Click to expand...

MM Hollywood's are almost impossible to find. Almost all are AE. Our AE Hollywood intercuts fine with our MM primes, btw.
 
Selling my 80-200 F4 mint condition. Look into the marketplace. EU. Never started building that Set, sadly. That lens is to good to sit around.
 
Hey Berry,

Might consider a Zeiss 80mm 2.8 Hassiblad lens. Optitek makes a Hassiblad to DSMC adapter. Maybe can be made to tilt/shift as the lens certainly has the image circle for it.
 
Vance Colvig said:
Hey Berry,

Might consider a Zeiss 80mm 2.8 Hassiblad lens. Optitek makes a Hassiblad to DSMC adapter. Maybe can be made to tilt/shift as the lens certainly has the image circle for it.
Click to expand...

We tilt shift with Hasselblads on RED all the time. With a Mirex EOS adapter. Works great.
 
Vance Colvig said:
Hey Berry,

Might consider a Zeiss 80mm 2.8 Hassiblad lens. Optitek makes a Hassiblad to DSMC adapter. Maybe can be made to tilt/shift as the lens certainly has the image circle for it.
Click to expand...

Hey, thanks that’s got to be worth considering.
 
Wow, this lens is a novel! Incredible. Much apologies if somewhere in the past 440 pages this has been addressed, but what are the latest thoughts on the new Milvus lineup vs Contax?

Not the obvious, Contax is lower con / older coatings / etc.

But more so, are the new designs on the Milvus worthwhile over the Contax? Do they maintain that Zeiss magic while being a best blend so to speak of the Contax / ZE lines?

Or do you feel they lack character being so "perfect", a clinical step up and an artistic step back, so to speak?

The 15 2.8, the new 25 1.4 and 35 1.4

And of course, the 21 2.8 and 50 1.4 and 85 1.4 but with the newer coatings and tweaks.
 
I just got my first Contax lenses (a 28-85 MMJ) and I have attempted to de-click it but it seems to be a little different since the whole piece including the aperture comes out and I don't seem to be able to disassemble it further.
Does anybody have any idea about how to declick this lenses?
Thank you.

EDIT: Managed to declick it just fine after a little more pulling and pushing around.
 
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Daniel Cegla said:
Wow, this lens is a novel! Incredible. Much apologies if somewhere in the past 440 pages this has been addressed, but what are the latest thoughts on the new Milvus lineup vs Contax?

Not the obvious, Contax is lower con / older coatings / etc.

But more so, are the new designs on the Milvus worthwhile over the Contax? Do they maintain that Zeiss magic while being a best blend so to speak of the Contax / ZE lines?

Or do you feel they lack character being so "perfect", a clinical step up and an artistic step back, so to speak?

The 15 2.8, the new 25 1.4 and 35 1.4

And of course, the 21 2.8 and 50 1.4 and 85 1.4 but with the newer coatings and tweaks.
Click to expand...

There is no simple answer here. As lenses get more corrected and perfect, they often lose some character. That's just how it goes.
 
Georgios Tryfonas said:
I just got my first Contax lenses (a 28-85 MMJ) and I have attempted to de-click it but it seems to be a little different since the whole piece including the aperture comes out and I don't seem to be able to disassemble it further.
Does anybody have any idea about how to declick this lenses?
Thank you.
Click to expand...

I generally recommend folks send their lenses to be fully modded at a lens tech.

Either Duclos or RP lens are great.
 
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