Contax Zeiss Survival Guide

[Andy Kolb]

Since I feel like people check this thread more often than the marketplace I want to refer to my thread over there.

I got four beauties for sale in Europe.

http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?153118-ZEISS-CONTAX-21mm-28mm-50mm-85mm-in-Europe

 

[Nick Morrison]

I don't post here often as I'm a stills man myself but exclusively use C/Y lenses on a Nikon D810.

I might have missed an initial post but I take it you are struggling to remove the screws on a 21mm. I've had my fair share in the 7 Leitax conversions I've done -2 of the 7 required me getting friendly with the drill (my 100mm 3.5 and the first of my 2 28mm 2.8's)...

Some tips for screw removal:

1)Put a drop of acetone based nail polish remover on the head of the screw and let it soak in. I do with a cotton bud (same as a q-tip in US English). Do this for all screws before removing as it breaks down the glue a bit. Since I started doing this I haven't had any more problems.

2)Use a good quality screwdriver with an undamaged tip. If it is damaged then it is very likely to trash the head of the screw. Also, make sure it is a perfect fit. The code has worn off mine but it's a Bahco, from Leitax, and I'm 99% sure it was a Ph-00. (The 1% doubt is because my other Ph-00 in a combi screwdriver has a biugger shaft, but still fits in to the screws snuggly)

3)Apply quite a bit of downwards pressure when first unscrewing so that you don't slip when breaking the glue seal. A slip here means it's time for step 4, which is where the fun begins...

4)If you strip a screw head it's time to drill out the screw head. This is less daunting than it sounds but still not for those unfamiliar with the safe use of power tools. No special equipment outside of a drill and a small enough bit are needed -I have done this twice with a standard battery drill as I don't have a drill press. The key is to work slowly. Never use full power and be gentle. You have time.

5)Start by removing the other screws. This allows you to check when you are done as the ring will loosen up.

6)Then cover everything except where you are going to drill with masking tape and cotton wool. Make doubly sure the glass is protected.

7)Drill slowly to just take the head apart. You don't want to even get all the way through the head as you will damage the metal on the lens. I picked a drill bit that was about the same size as the thread from one of the other screws I'd already removed. It is best to use a new and sharp drill bit. Again, drill slowly, you aren't trying to recreate a scene from Driller Killer here.

8)As you progress, use the sticky side of masking tape to remove any metal shavings.

9)When you have drilled (or rather milled) enough material away the remains of the head should pop off and then you can remove the ring. You will be left with a lens with the shaft of the screw stick out. Use needle nose pliers to carefully unscrew this.

10)make sure you have cleaned out any and all metal shavings and then remove the masking tape and cotton wool protective materials.

11)Continue fitting the new adapter as you are all done!

Dave this is amazing!

How long you been shooting stills on C/Y? We hear so little about stills shooting here, love to know more!

Happy holidays!

 

[J Obertone]

https://www.nowness.com/series/lovesick/onion-lino-asana

Shot on RED Scarlet dragon. (4K) Shot entirely with Zeiss contax 28mmf/2+slr magic 1.3 ana.
Re shot projected on a wall with Scarlet-W.

"Onion" is a hybrid documentary exploring the lost of a dear friend in a traverse of the future | past.

++just inserted the new link to NOWNESS++

 

[Nick Morrison]

https://vimeo.com/197378799

Shot on RED Scarlet dragon. (4K) Shot entirely with Zeiss contax 28mmf/2+slr magic 1.3 ana.
Re shot projected on a wall with Scarlet-W.

"Onion" is a hybrid documentary exploring the lost of a dear friend in a traverse of the future | past.

This looks amazing. I love the projector motiff.

How was your experience with the SLR magic 1.3x? What made you pick that vs the 2x?

The streaks it gives are really gorgeous, and not too intrusive. I sometimes feel anamorphic calls too much attention to itself, but felt it really worked here. Maybe it's the more subtle 1.3. Love to hear more about your experiences with it.

Again, awesome work.

 

[Simon_G]

I don't post here often as I'm a stills man myself but exclusively use C/Y lenses on a Nikon D810.

I might have missed an initial post but I take it you are struggling to remove the screws on a 21mm. I've had my fair share in the 7 Leitax conversions I've done -2 of the 7 required me getting friendly with the drill (my 100mm 3.5 and the first of my 2 28mm 2.8's)...

Dave thanks so much for your time and detail with this! Amazing!

At the moment I have been to scared and have just bought an adapter. I did try a lot of these things, used a Leitax screw driver and everything.
I had some troubles with a few others, but nothing as major as the 21. I am quite patient! It seems like the screws don't age well and the metal on the head just doesn't want to hold up to the seized threads grip.

So instead I decided to get back into film photography and bought a CONTAX RTS II (a baby SLR!) and have been using the 21 and a baby 45 on my travels. The first few test rolls of that are in for developing at the moment, so might post some results from that if they are any good!

I thought this might be a great way of killing more time before the Raven order comes through and kind of get more of an idea around various film looks. I read a company cinestill are selling motion 35 for photography which is way excellent! Gotta get in on that.

I also got a medium format camera which I am loving playing around with. Pentax 67, I have been reading you can feed it 35 if your brave to get interesting panoramic images.

So in a way the troubles I have had have pushed me in another direction I am enjoying, also looking into developing negatives now. So it's great in a way!

I think I am going to get it professionally changed one day, but sending it out into the world worries me a little atm!

Cheers,

Simon.

 

[Ben Friesen]

Hey Guys

Just wanted peoples on opinions on starting a Zeiss kit with a Contax N 17-35 2.8, pairing that with C/Y 35, 50, 85 MMJ lenses. I do a lot of run and gun so the wide angle zoom is a bit of a necessity. Interested to see what peoples thoughts are of this lens on red sensors and how well the wide angle zoom pairs with MMJ.

Thanks

 

[Steve Sherrick]

Hey Guys

Just wanted peoples on opinions on starting a Zeiss kit with a Contax N 17-35 2.8, pairing that with C/Y 35, 50, 85 MMJ lenses. I do a lot of run and gun so the wide angle zoom is a bit of a necessity. Interested to see what peoples thoughts are of this lens on red sensors and how well the wide angle zoom pairs with MMJ.

Thanks

What about a Sigma 18-35 with a Black Pro Mist 1/8?

 

[Nick Morrison]

Hey Guys

Just wanted peoples on opinions on starting a Zeiss kit with a Contax N 17-35 2.8, pairing that with C/Y 35, 50, 85 MMJ lenses. I do a lot of run and gun so the wide angle zoom is a bit of a necessity. Interested to see what peoples thoughts are of this lens on red sensors and how well the wide angle zoom pairs with MMJ.

Thanks

I wouldn't recommend the Contax N 17-35, as I'm not convinced it will work on RED cameras.

We bought a Conurus EOS mod of the 24-85, and had no iris control over it on an Epic Dragon.

By all accounts it's an amazing zoom, but luckily there are other options out there.

The Sigma 18-35 is a good one - with a little diffusion it matches pretty well.

 

[Ben Friesen]

Im not to worried about being able to control the lens through the camera as it is manual.

I like the idea of the contax as it does cover a full frame sensor and I often use the a7sII as a second camera. Would be great to have a lenses that are easily interchangeable.

 

[paulcurtis]

Im not to worried about being able to control the lens through the camera as it is manual.

I like the idea of the contax as it does cover a full frame sensor and I often use the a7sII as a second camera. Would be great to have a lenses that are easily interchangeable.

I don't think the aperture on that is manual, hence electronic control. I'd been looking at the Contax N range, the zooms look really nice but been wary of it working fully on the Reds. I'd love to know if anyone has, but Nick suggests not... Although if the conurus conversion is working i don't see why it wouldn't. Nick, did you try to speak to conurus, in case there was something up with that particular lens?

cheers
Paul

 

[Jean baptiste]

hi
what about contax zeiss mmj 18mm f 4? there is someone here that use it ? thanks

 

[Ben Scott]

Brilliant lens.

 

[Nick Morrison]

I don't think the aperture on that is manual, hence electronic control. I'd been looking at the Contax N range, the zooms look really nice but been wary of it working fully on the Reds. I'd love to know if anyone has, but Nick suggests not... Although if the conurus conversion is working i don't see why it wouldn't. Nick, did you try to speak to conurus, in case there was something up with that particular lens?

cheers
Paul

Hey Paul, in my experience the Contax N lenses aren't fully "manual" - they are mostly electronic with manual override.

When we put the 24-85 on an Epic Dragon, we lost a lot of functionality - my guess was RED doesn't have a firmware profile loaded for Conorus mods. As a result, we couldn't change the iris at all (even though there was an iris ring). And while the manual focus did work, the autofocus did not.

 

[David Tang]

Hi everyone,

Last posted in June before I bought my Contax kit; it's been a dream!

I ended up getting the following:

18mm f4.0 AE
25mm f2.8 AE
35mm f1.4 AE
50mm f1.4 AE
85mm f1.4 AE

Leitax mounts, Cordvision fronts, and with Nick's helpful tips, picked up an 80mm front for the 18mm and a clamp on sunshade. I'm saving up to fill out the kit a bit more (especially on the long end), so shout out if you have any faves! I'm thinking it'll either be a 100mm macro or possibly a long zoom.

Also wanted to share a commercial I shot on the lenses (which arrived the day before!) that I'm really proud of:

UNISA - Study With The Best

Shot on C300 Mark II, Contax set as above.

Really looking forward to busting out the lenses more often; the sad thing is I rarely get time to work with primes, but it's becoming a popular local rental kit at least! I have a couple of pet projects shot with the Contax's that are still in post that I'm hoping to share in the coming months

 

[Ben Scott]

Fill the set with the 28-85, 80-200 and 100-300 and you're good to go

 

[Nick Morrison]

Hi everyone,

Last posted in June before I bought my Contax kit; it's been a dream!

I ended up getting the following:

18mm f4.0 AE
25mm f2.8 AE
35mm f1.4 AE
50mm f1.4 AE
85mm f1.4 AE

Leitax mounts, Cordvision fronts, and with Nick's helpful tips, picked up an 80mm front for the 18mm and a clamp on sunshade. I'm saving up to fill out the kit a bit more (especially on the long end), so shout out if you have any faves! I'm thinking it'll either be a 100mm macro or possibly a long zoom.

Also wanted to share a commercial I shot on the lenses (which arrived the day before!) that I'm really proud of:

UNISA - Study With The Best
https://vimeo.com/176099719

Shot on C300 Mark II, Contax set as above.

Really looking forward to busting out the lenses more often; the sad thing is I rarely get time to work with primes, but it's becoming a popular local rental kit at least! I have a couple of pet projects shot with the Contax's that are still in post that I'm hoping to share in the coming months

Dude, this spot is GREAT!!! Congrats!!!

You're lens kit is awesome too! I'd recommend adding the following:

PRIMES
28 f2 - a faster wide is really helpful, and this 28 is gold.

135 2.8 - we don't use it a lot, but it's so affordable, and can lengthen your kit.

180 2.8 - a must have. We use ours CONSTANTLY. The short close focus makes it a dream lens on a B-cam for "detail" work.

You can see the 135 and 180 at work as the cutaways on B-Cam here (on hands):

https://vimeo.com/174416755


ZOOMS
35-70 3.4 zoom - a must have. The constant f-stop and amazing imagery/pop make this incredibly versatile on set. We have 3.

You can see the 35-7 in action here - all the "punch ins" were shot on it. All the wides on a Standard Prime 24. They match PERFECTLY (with a white balance):

https://vimeo.com/199056584


80-200 f4 zoom - another must, it's amazing, we also have 3! The short focus at 200mm makes it a great "details" lens as well, and the zero iris ramp across the 80-200, and the incredible ease the push pull gives B-Cam operators makes this a WINNER. We use it...CONSTANTLY.

You can see the 80-200 in action as the cutaway B-Cam here

https://vimeo.com/199067754


Congrats again David!!

 

[David Tang]

Thanks for the recommendations guys!

One aspect I've been really trying to squeeze out of the set is having that crazy flare. I went with all AE primes to try and chase the flares as best I could.

Would the 35-70 and the 80-200, being MM lenses with the newer coatings, leave me wanting in that respect? I know of the 40-80 and the 70-210 which exist as less optically refined AE versions, but I'm curious in regards to that flare aspect specifically.

And the same question re: the 28mm Hollywood; just how much less flare are we talking? My 25 has this insane, gritty, rainbow tinted flare that happens when you strike it with a light source from a really sharp angle. I'm in love.

 

[Nick Morrison]

Thanks for the recommendations guys!

One aspect I've been really trying to squeeze out of the set is having that crazy flare. I went with all AE primes to try and chase the flares as best I could.

Would the 35-70 and the 80-200, being MM lenses with the newer coatings, leave me wanting in that respect? I know of the 40-80 and the 70-210 which exist as less optically refined AE versions, but I'm curious in regards to that flare aspect specifically.

And the same question re: the 28mm Hollywood; just how much less flare are we talking? My 25 has this insane, gritty, rainbow tinted flare that happens when you strike it with a light source from a really sharp angle. I'm in love.

The 28 f2 has some flare, but its not crazy like the 25.

The 35-70 and 80-200 are certainly cleaner, no doubt.

The 70-210 is crazy expensive, and doesn't seem worth it.

Never tried the 40-80 so can't teport back about it!

 

[Jean baptiste]

HI,
I am interesting about 60mm macro MMJ lens but I have question, does it works with follow focus HF like DJI focus? because focus ring on the lens since so move front side and backside when you use it so I am not sur it will works with follow focus
thanks for your answer

 

[Tommaso Alvisi]

Jean,

you have to use a thick focus gear which cover basically all the rubber on the lens barrel and also 3d printing a thicker one for the WFF too probably...then it would work, yes.