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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Contax Zeiss Survival Guide

Also, here are some still portraits we shot on the iconic Contax 85 1.2 60 years, in our studio. WFO @ 6K.

Lovely lens

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Since you may want the SB for your wides: be careful not to try it with the 18mm, since the rear element will touch the glass. At least my dumb SB does.

@Ben: didn't you find the optical quality of that Camdiox awful? Or has it improved recently?

@ Nick: Envy you for that anniversary 85mm!
 
Thanks Uli, Ben .. I have a basic "dumb" mount adapter that works fine and I have been using for a while. It was just the speed booster issue so I will under take the filling down of the iris tab over the holidays. I have a doc project in Feb and want to have the speed booster option with me. Good intel on the 18mm ... I take particular care. Have you tried the Contax Zeiss with the Helium sensor? Wondering if the glass holds up in S35mm 8K?

Thanks
 
Uli Plank said:
Since you may want the SB for your wides: be careful not to try it with the 18mm, since the rear element will touch the glass. At least my dumb SB does.

@Ben: didn't you find the optical quality of that Camdiox awful? Or has it improved recently?

@ Nick: Envy you for that anniversary 85mm!
Click to expand...

No the Camdiox was great. My only complaint about it, and I'll forgive it due to the excellent price - is it was a bit tight. Although for video that is great :)

28-85 with the FS7 and Camdiox

Screengrab from Sony FS7 Video 150fps clip by Ben Scott, on Flickr

Lamborghini Huracan - Screen grabs and test grades by Ben Scott, on Flickr

Salford - Screengrab from Sony FS7 video by Ben Scott, on Flickr
 
Ted Parkes said:
Thanks Uli, Ben .. I have a basic "dumb" mount adapter that works fine and I have been using for a while. It was just the speed booster issue so I will under take the filling down of the iris tab over the holidays. I have a doc project in Feb and want to have the speed booster option with me. Good intel on the 18mm ... I take particular care. Have you tried the Contax Zeiss with the Helium sensor? Wondering if the glass holds up in S35mm 8K?

Thanks
Click to expand...

The camdiox is a 'dumb' speedbooster. As in it has the focal reducer but not any electronics. it is perfect for contax glass.
 
Ben Scott said:
Better. I had that and sold it. It hit the iris prongs.

This is what I bought - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Camdiox-F...lens-to-Sony-E-NEX-Adapter-5R-7-/261325163981
Click to expand...
Ah, that is for Sony E cams. I am looking for one for the Micro four thirds cameras that doesn't involve modifying the Contax lenses. What's interesting is that Camdiox doesn't seem to have any focal reducers listed on their website. Is that a little strange or are these discontinued products that have made their way to eBay?
 
Interesting note with their offer:
"Note: it is not suitable for Sony NEX 35mm camcorders such as FS700.
Blue spot will occur if lens is pointed to light sources."

This is exactly what I observed with the first generation Lens Turbo. Maybe I need to have second look at that Camdiox for my Sony A7S and A7RII. Even the edges seem to look great in your shots – poor edges were the main disadvantage of the SB knock-offs I looked at, apart from the Lens Turbo II which I use now for my Minolta collection.
 
Hi, I converted my 21mm to leitax and popped it on my bmpcc w/speedbooster but corners are crazy soft. any knowledge of this? thanks
 
its happening on both the pocket and micro. I messed with the infinity adjustment but honestly don't really see a difference. The lens works great on my canon dslr.

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Simon_G said:
Unfortunately the local lens professionals either can't get a hold of or can't move those screws.

What would be my next step being a lad from Australia? Should I contact repair services of Zeiss here? Or can I send out of country to someone?

Has anyone had the epic screw issue and had that resolved via RP Lens/Duclos?

At least I can still adapt it and was thinking maybe it was best to leave it there and maybe even get a CONTAX film camera to use it on both...

It's a shame, it's the 21 man!
Click to expand...

I don't post here often as I'm a stills man myself but exclusively use C/Y lenses on a Nikon D810.

I might have missed an initial post but I take it you are struggling to remove the screws on a 21mm. I've had my fair share in the 7 Leitax conversions I've done -2 of the 7 required me getting friendly with the drill (my 100mm 3.5 and the first of my 2 28mm 2.8's)...

Some tips for screw removal:

1)Put a drop of acetone based nail polish remover on the head of the screw and let it soak in. I do with a cotton bud (same as a q-tip in US English). Do this for all screws before removing as it breaks down the glue a bit. Since I started doing this I haven't had any more problems.

2)Use a good quality screwdriver with an undamaged tip. If it is damaged then it is very likely to trash the head of the screw. Also, make sure it is a perfect fit. The code has worn off mine but it's a Bahco, from Leitax, and I'm 99% sure it was a Ph-00. (The 1% doubt is because my other Ph-00 in a combi screwdriver has a biugger shaft, but still fits in to the screws snuggly)

3)Apply quite a bit of downwards pressure when first unscrewing so that you don't slip when breaking the glue seal. A slip here means it's time for step 4, which is where the fun begins...

4)If you strip a screw head it's time to drill out the screw head. This is less daunting than it sounds but still not for those unfamiliar with the safe use of power tools. No special equipment outside of a drill and a small enough bit are needed -I have done this twice with a standard battery drill as I don't have a drill press. The key is to work slowly. Never use full power and be gentle. You have time.

5)Start by removing the other screws. This allows you to check when you are done as the ring will loosen up.

6)Then cover everything except where you are going to drill with masking tape and cotton wool. Make doubly sure the glass is protected.

7)Drill slowly to just take the head apart. You don't want to even get all the way through the head as you will damage the metal on the lens. I picked a drill bit that was about the same size as the thread from one of the other screws I'd already removed. It is best to use a new and sharp drill bit. Again, drill slowly, you aren't trying to recreate a scene from Driller Killer here.

8)As you progress, use the sticky side of masking tape to remove any metal shavings.

9)When you have drilled (or rather milled) enough material away the remains of the head should pop off and then you can remove the ring. You will be left with a lens with the shaft of the screw stick out. Use needle nose pliers to carefully unscrew this.

10)make sure you have cleaned out any and all metal shavings and then remove the masking tape and cotton wool protective materials.

11)Continue fitting the new adapter as you are all done!
 
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