Welcome to our community

Be a part of something great, join today!

Log in
  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Canon Lens Set

I just read elsewhere on here that Jarred had tried the 17-55 on the Epic and it vignetted severely -- so do NOT consider that lens for your 5k purposes!!
 
Jarred Land said:
The EF-S 17-55 will vignette full frame 5K for sure.. I tried. Same with the 18-200mm EF-S ( tried that one as well )

The electronics, as expected, do work, but they all clip every corner anything under 40mm at full 5K.
Click to expand...

Here is the quote Paul is talking about. So the 17-55mm is a no-go on Epic. Thanks for pointing that out, Paul.
 
Anybody with HS experience?

Anybody with HS experience?

Julio Quintana said:
Not to undermine your point, but people keep saying that fast lenses aren't as critical with the new sensors, but nobody talks about how much light is required to shoot at 120fps. Yes, the sensors are faster, but to really make the most of the Epic, I think we will need every bit of light we can get.
Click to expand...
I can't tell for sure but with extremely shallow DOF at low apertures it may be very difficult to shoot fast moving objects. Can anybody with real life experience comment? What stops are common for HS shooting?
 
That is a real shame about the 17-55mm. Unless in my optics physics ignorance I don't know that its design will be a big stepping stone for the design of a new zoom which could cover 5k and have a slightly longer focal range. Though it seems the 18-85 would be a bit more useful, with the wide end cut short a bit.

What were the focal length ranges for the electronic Red zooms?
 
OptiTek said:
There is a 20mm f1.8 Sigma but it is an APS-c format lens and it's unclear at this point what these will or will not cover.
On Abel format roundup it seems to cover but Jarred said the opposite about some other lenses. It would be nice to know what the actual recordable area on the 5K Epic is.... :thumbup:h
Click to expand...


The Sigma 20mm f1.8 is a full frame lens. I use it a lot on my 5D2 and it looks great and is a fairly cheap lens considering the speed and focal length.
 
Sounds like a very nice option. How is the focusing feel, and how long is the throw? Any breathing?

Close focus of 7.9 inches (20cm) and f/1.8 is pretty impressive for shallow DoF needs. It would be useful for creating distance between objects if you wanted to seem far away in interiors and completely OOF... what have you. Look at this sample from the review on The Digital Picture and crop in with whatever the factor is for 5k (~x1.8?) to get an idea: http://www.the-digital-picture.com/...12_18-47-36&Title=Looking-Down-on-a-Red-Cosmo

However this is a bit worrisome (also from the review on The Digital Picture):
At f/2.8, the Sigma is sharper in the center than the Canon 20mm, but the Canon easily wins the corner competition even on a 1.6x FOVCF body at all apertures. My Sigma is worse on the right side than the left (the ISO 12233 chart mid and corner crops are from the right side), but the difference is not enough to merit much thought. Sigma's own MTF chart even indicates miserable performance outside the center. The corner problem seems to lie in the Sigma having a significantly curved plane of sharp focus - which I suppose no longer qualifies as a "plane". I am able to get reasonably sharp corners when the Sigma 20mm lens is stopped down, but the sharp areas are not close to the primary plane of sharp focus. At f/4, the Sigma 20mm f/1.8 EX DG Lens is sharp in the center and even sharper in the center at f/5.6. Below f/8, the corners are terrible.
Click to expand...

If you set his 100% crop comparison application to compare against a lens you know well, you'll be able to see that the Sigma 20mm f/1.8 has bad corners even when stopped down to f/5.6. f/8 looks a bit nicer.

So shooting a pattern that covered from middle to the edges wide open, or something with high frequency detail all over, and I'd start to worry... Of course many subjects won't show it to be a problem, and you may even love the way it pulls you to the center. But worth noting.

Good sample to look at corners: http://www.juzaphoto.com/shared_files/articles/sigma_20mm_1-8_review/sigma_20_1-8_sample-large.jpg
Unfortunately there is quite a bit of noise in the image, but I would say this one also has a bit softer corners on the left.

Other than that is seems there is "only" some CA, and it flares a bit too much.

Probably some necessary evils considering the speed and lenght, and its price! But I don't think I would buy one for inter-cutting narrative with other sharper and all around better lenses like the L's. It seems it might stick out a bit too much unless you blurred the corners on the others, even if you used the 20mm stopped down. Then again, you might need a fast 20mm at some point, and if you do... $520 at B&H... mhhh...
 
nice surprise...

nice surprise...

Andrew Walker said:
The Sigma 20mm f1.8 is a full frame lens. I use it a lot on my 5D2 and it looks great and is a fairly cheap lens considering the speed and focal length.
Click to expand...
It's better than I thought then. I have a 30mm f1.4 and it's a great EF-s lens...
and 20 for a full frame? strange...
 
OptiTek said:
It's better than I thought then. I have a 30mm f1.4 and it's a great EF-s lens...
and 20 for a full frame? strange...
Click to expand...

Maybe they make one for the smaller sensor but the one I have works great on the 5D2. Can't wait to get it on Epic as its super sharp on the RED MX.
 
Andrew Walker said:
Maybe they make one for the smaller sensor but the one I have works great on the 5D2. Can't wait to get it on Epic as its super sharp on the RED MX.
Click to expand...

4.5k M-X doesn't get into the soft part of the image circle as much. Though 5k will do so only a bit more and will still avoid the corners we see in samples taken with FF35. Yea... forgot about that... mhhhhhh....

Could you please post an M-X sample and tell us a bit about the focus ring?
 
The Sigma 30mm f1.4 (we had the Nikon version) is a KILLER lens. Just terrific! I'd like to see the 20mm f1.8 in person. I'd like it if it wasn't too soft.

Anyone really have this lens to try it out?

Stephen
 

Attachments

  • sigma_20_crop.jpg
    sigma_20_crop.jpg
    93 KB · Views: 0
So are people thinking this lens would cut well with the rest of the Canon L-Series? If so, this is a pretty decent little package:

Canon Lens Package - $10450 (this includes $250/lens for the Duclos Cine-Mod)
Tokina 11-16mm f2.8_______$850
Sigma 20mm f1.8__________$750
Canon 24mm f1.4L II_______$2050
Canon 35mm f1.4L_________$1650
Canon 50mm f1.2L_________$1850
Canon 85mm f1.2L II_______$2050
Canon 135mm f2__________$1250

Very fast, very light, with full electronic controls with the Epic Canon mount. All with de-clicked irises and focus gears installed by Sir Duclos himself.
My only concern is with the Sigma 20mm is that apparently when you switch the lens to auto focus, it disengages the focus wheel and lets it spin freely. Do you guys think that might be a problem if you want to use auto focus but still be able to use the follow focus in shot? How do you deal with that?
 
declicking iris?

declicking iris?

This is going to be pretty hard since none of these lenses have iris. Gears will not be necessary either since the Redmote pro will let you pull focus.
Really the Red system is made for off the shelf lenses...
 
Julio Quintana said:
it disengages the focus wheel and lets it spin freely. Do you guys think that might be a problem if you want to use auto focus but still be able to use the follow focus in shot? How do you deal with that?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, thats what all the Canon lenses do as well...freely spin, no min-max focus stops. Its the sinlgle biggest issue when using these lenses to capture motion pictures. The most common way I've dealt with this is to buy a FF or a wireless FF which allows you to set hard stops just short of infinity an min-focus. In my case I use a Bartech digital wireless FF. My 1AC has to grip the lens gears when the focus motor goes through its self calibration just as the lens hits infinity and again as it hits min-focus. Its a kludge of massive proportions and takes several tries before he is happy. But is works.

Cheers,
Paul
 
OptiTek said:
This is going to be pretty hard since none of these lenses have iris. Gears will not be necessary either since the Redmote pro will let you pull focus.
Really the Red system is made for off the shelf lenses...
Click to expand...

Yikes! I didn't realize that. So we would be completely relying on the new Canon mount to smoothly control the iris while we're shooting? Does that make anyone else nervous? I'm so used to operating manual lenses myself and just adjusting the iris gear while rolling, I think it would be weird to have to go into a menu to change that. Well, I really have to say that for me, that is one more strong argument for the Red Pro primes. Maybe I just need to embrace this whole DSLR thing, but this just doesn't feel as professional to me all of the sudden.
 
Paul Nordin said:
Unfortunately, thats what all the Canon lenses do as well...freely spin, no min-max focus stops... My 1AC has to grip the lens gears when the focus motor goes through its self calibration just as the lens hits infinity and again as it hits min-focus. Its a kludge of massive proportions and takes several tries before he is happy. But is works.
Click to expand...

Okay, now these lenses really don't feel like they are worth $10,000 to me.
 
They are amazing lenses. . . no doubt about it. But they do entail compromises. . . just like everything else in life.

As for us, we are Canon and will stay Canon. . . and will have very, very few regrets.

Stephen
 
As far as I know, the iris motors in Canon lenses are small stepper motors that only move in large increments, like f/1.4 to f/1.6 to f/1.8 to f/2 to f/2.8 or whatever the stops are. It's not like a declicked manual iris you can pull in the middle of a shot. Maybe Jarred can give us some idea about how smooth these iris pulls are in the middle of a shot?
 
Tom Lowe said:
As far as I know, the iris motors in Canon lenses are small stepper motors that only move in large increments, like f/1.4 to f/1.6 to f/1.8 to f/2 to f/2.8 or whatever the stops are. It's not like a declicked manual iris you can pull in the middle of a shot.
Click to expand...

Stephen, I'm sure these lenses can produce some awesome images, but these little details would probably be enough for me to not want to use my own lenses for my own projects!

I would love to hear what Jarred thinks about the electronic controls on the new Canon mount.
 
From reviews it seems the 20mm has an overly loud focus motor... so not a good option for dialogue if focused wirelessly it with the RedMote's capabilities, and that is if turned out to have smooth focusing action, and if Red took it upon themselves to include it in their long list to program (which I guess it would mean it is a pretty bad-ass lens in of itself).

Let's also keep in mind that there will be some differences in the T-Stops of these, even if they are all equal aperture primes from the same company and line up, even at different focal lengths of some aperture-constant zooms. The 24-70mm L is significantly brighter on the wide end.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top