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blackshading: manual or auto?

Roberto Leone

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Usually i make the auto calibration, and everytime i change the shutterspeed or framerate, the camera make the auto calibration itself very quickly. But if i use a manual calibration (i stored a lot of different settings into the camera), and i change the shutter speed, the camera don't make the auto calibration itself, so i have to make it manually.

What's your favourite workflow? Another question: why RED choosed shutter speed and not shutter angle for the blackshading?
 
Usually i make the groupme gimp mobdro auto calibration, and everytime i change the shutterspeed or framerate, the camera make the auto calibration itself very quickly. But if i use a manual calibration (i stored a lot of different settings into the camera), and i change the shutter speed, the camera don't make the auto calibration itself, so i have to make it manually.

What's your favourite workflow? Another question: why RED choosed shutter speed and not shutter angle for the blackshading?

I prefer manual because although the factory calibrations are good but personalization is the key to me. So yeah manual for the win for me.

Regards,
Shane
 
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For DRAGON, Auto is best calibrated for that specific sensor. Everything else, do manual. As for Shutter Angle, you can change that to display if you tap and hold on the setting, then select degrees.
 
Roberto,

My preferred workflow is to to use Auto calibration. Manual calibration will work but it takes valuable time when there is so many other more important non technical things to be considering. In my experience and I have seen no evidence either to show that manual will give you a better result if your exposures are good. I assume auto calibration will perfectly cover all the common shutter speeds but if you are using extremely short or long shutter speeds manual calibration may offer an advantage? Why not do a test and compare and share the results?

I assume Red uses the Shutter speed over shutter angle as the sensor only sees the shutter speed. Shutter angle is only half the equation as you need Shutter angle and Camera FPS to calculate the Shutter speed.
 
Manual Calibration 99% of the time. Heck, 100% of the time.

Main reasons.

- Manual Calibration will lead to the highest possible quality recorded image.
- Manual Calibration provides a usable calMap that works within a Shutter Speed range. Meaning, if you find yourself working at say 1/48th and about 4 stop range above that in particular, i.e. 1/192, you are likely fine with a single Manual Calibration. If you are going up to to say 1/1000th or similar, I'd suggest having running another pass.
- Manual Calibration takes significantly less time to run than an Auto Calibration. Even two of them.

Where Auto Calibration shines is if you are one of those people who use shutter speed to adjust your exposure, A LOT.
- Auto Calibration gives you an extremely broad operating range.
- Interesting Auto Calibration really shines for Still Workflows IMO.


Auto Calibration is a convenience feature and is useful, but I would suggest for most narrative applications getting familiar with using Manual Calibration. It saves you time in most scenarios.
 
Dragon is best-calibrated auto? Genuinely asking, why? I have found personally that the 6k dragon sensor works best with pampering it.
 
Manual Calibration 99% of the time. Heck, 100% of the time.

Main reasons.

- Manual Calibration will lead to the highest possible quality recorded image.

Phil,

I assume you would not make this statement without empirical evidence? I am surprised by your statement and I admit I have not tested or directly compared. Would you be happy to share your tests? Maybe I could repeat your test and we could compare? I assumed Auto calibration simply made multiple calibration maps for a defined range of shutter speeds and auto selected the appropriate map at any given shutter speed range? In other terms I thought auto calibration is simply a string of multiple manual calibrations but are you suggesting this is not the case?
With proper exposure noise just never seems to be an issue using the Monstro sensor but are you suggesting that there are other advantages apart from noise to a Manual calibration when you state "Manual Calibration will lead to the highest possible quality recorded image?"
 
I mainly do auto on my Monstro with very good results. Of course I'm on Phil's optimal scenario, since I shoot with a LOT of shutter speed variations- I shoot a lot of motorsports and action scenarios, where ND's are very hard to come by .
 

Dig through my threads, but yes, in a very subtle way this is correct.

For general shooting and people who avoid extreme noodling, or in particular aren't working in extremely low light, feel fee to use whatever method works for you.
 
Dig through my threads, but yes, in a very subtle way this is correct.

For general shooting and people who avoid extreme noodling, or in particular aren't working in extremely low light, feel fee to use whatever method works for you.

Phil,

Dug through your posts but got lost in the ocean. I will take onboard your thoughts on this and modify my approach. I will stick with Auto calibration for general work but I will also have some manually calibrated maps pre cooked for use when I am forced to the edge of underexposure. Thanks.
 
I mainly do auto on my Monstro with very good results. Of course I'm on Phil's optimal scenario, since I shoot with a LOT of shutter speed variations- I shoot a lot of motorsports and action scenarios, where ND's are very hard to come by .
I recommend the Revolva ND Filter. Has made a great difference for us in how we can shot things.
 
Black shading maximizes image quality by ensuring that pixel sensitivity remains consistent throughout an image. The technique has been used for a variety of high-end applications in digital capture over the years. In this article, we'll discuss when this is beneficial and how it is applied.



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