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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

BeSteady FOUR Thread

Those are being made by external company as we don't have all necessary equipment to terminate LEMO connectors. We have asked them to finish that as fast as they will be able to but I can't be certain when exactly that will be.

Best
Peter

Can you let us know what cables will be included?
 
Hi Ryan,

sorry for my misreading of your post.

About cables you will receive:
- Quad D-Tap female to FGA.0B.302.CLAD54 with 150mm cable
- Single D-Tap male to FHJ.1B.CWLD72Z with 250mm cable (90 degrees knee plug)
- FHG.1B.316.CLAD72Z to FHG.1B.316.CLAD72Z with 620mm cable (RED Touch)

Best
Peter
 
Hi Ryan,

sorry for my misreading of your post.

About cables you will receive:
- Quad D-Tap female to FGA.0B.302.CLAD54 with 150mm cable
- Single D-Tap male to FHJ.1B.CWLD72Z with 250mm cable (90 degrees knee plug)
- FHG.1B.316.CLAD72Z to FHG.1B.316.CLAD72Z with 620mm cable (RED Touch)

Best
Peter

So the sum it up in "Ryan doesn't understand what those LEMO codes mean" terms...

Cable 1 connects to the 2-pin power output lemo cable that sticks out of the ACR carriage?
Cable 2 connects to cable 1 via DTap and the other end connects to the RED power input?
Cable 3 is just a longer RED LCD cable? Is it a thin cable?

Thanks Peter.
 
So the sum it up in "Ryan doesn't understand what those LEMO codes mean" terms...

Cable 1 connects to the 2-pin power output lemo cable that sticks out of the ACR carriage?
Cable 2 connects to cable 1 via DTap and the other end connects to the RED power input?
Cable 3 is just a longer RED LCD cable? Is it a thin cable?

Thanks Peter.

Hi Ryan,

Cable 1 - you can connect that one to camera shelf - there will be Quad D-Tap - you can power different accessories to that using male D-Tap (ex. wireless transition, remote follow focus etc.)
Cable 2 - That one will connect RED camera from Cable 1 - so you will have 3 D-Tap plugs to power up accessories.
Cable 3 - Yes, but it has 16 wires inside so it can't be flexible like hyperthin cable :)

I hope that will help.

Best
Peter
 
Hi Ryan,

sorry for my misreading of your post.

About cables you will receive:
- Quad D-Tap female to FGA.0B.302.CLAD54 with 150mm cable
- Single D-Tap male to FHJ.1B.CWLD72Z with 250mm cable (90 degrees knee plug)
- FHG.1B.316.CLAD72Z to FHG.1B.316.CLAD72Z with 620mm cable (RED Touch)

Best
Peter

Hi Peter,

Would the cables not need to have female Lemo connectors on rather than the FGA/FHJ ones you mention? I didn't think these Lemos could connect up male to male?

The connector on the camera shelf is the FGG.0B.302.CLAD52Z so wouldn't that need the female inline socket PHG.0B.302.CLLD52Z? I'm about to order some parts to knock up a custom cable to power my Sony F5 so was planning to run the PHG.0B.302.CLLD52Z to a 4 pin XLR but let me know if that's not right.

Incidentally I took delivery of my upgraded Beast last week and am planning to do some more tests before writing up my thoughts on how much of an improvement it is over V1 but it's safe to say that it's a lot more robust and reliable now.

All the best,
Joe
 
Hi Joe,

I will ask guys more technical than me to clear that. I was trying to be helpful, but I need to clear that.

I will let you known tomorrow.

Best
Peter

Thanks Peter - it is very helpful, I just want to make sure I get the right plug on these ones I'm building and anyone else wanting to do the same has the right info. Thanks for checking for me and I look forward to hearing the details.

Cheers,
Joe
 
Well my Beast has arrived.......

I spent a few days learning the idiosyncrasies of the gimbal. Balancing is a snap if you have any previous gimbal experience. The menu is as intuitive as any menu I've ever used. Can't say enough about the simplicity of tuning the beast through the onboard menu. I must say much of my time was spent trying to get a workaround for not having the proper power cables for the Epic and all the accessories. My temporary power solution was a AB gold mt. on the crossbar and a custom P-Tap to Epic Lemo to power the camera, Paralinx, and wireless focus. This gave me about 1.5 hours on the camera. The internal small Lipo's, which are fantastic, would power the beast by itself for upwards of 10 hours. This even though it's not operating at full efficiency as one of my small batteries needs to be replaced bc it's not charging properly.

With a cable solution in place, I began testing the performance with a 50mm Zeiss Super Speed. I figured better to test with a longish lens at 24 fps then just going with a wide lens and over cranking. At first I had some serious jitter and vibration. After some back and forth (overnight emailing) with ACR technical support, Maciej got me sorted on what motor strengths, performance levels, and filters to try with my setup.

Once I got the logic down trial and error was easy. The best thing about the initial process is that the overall performance of the beast was great, so testing had some instant gratification.

After only four or five days of testing I got a call to shoot a project in the snow (need to be vague, NDA signed). Temperatures in the teens (Fahrenheit), blowing wind, frozen, stiff, heavy cables, and loading in and out of backpacks all day......... the beast was a beast.......No issues that needed to be dealt with on the mountain pertaining to balance, battery life was awesome, and the shots were great. This was truly a stress test for any gimbal and the beast delivered. By the end of the first day I had total confidence in the unit.

I'm really looking forward to the cable package shipping bc I think I may be able to run everything, camera, AKS, and gimbal off those internal small batteries and save two pounds of the total weight. If not, the rig isn't bad, weight wise, with the AB on the crossbar.

To sum things up........... This is truly a well built piece of camera gear that performs as promised. And I'd never thought I'd say it, but "it was worth the wait".
 

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Wow Thank you Steve, this has to be one of the best post on this thread in a long time.
What were your settings on the Beast as far as numbers you started with and where you ended up. And maybe why or some of that logic you talked about...
So good to hear..
 
Wow Thank you Steve, this has to be one of the best post on this thread in a long time.
What were your settings on the Beast as far as numbers you started with and where you ended up. And maybe why or some of that logic you talked about...
So good to hear..


The logic simply being that the motor strength, follow speeds, filters, etc. are all just simple percentages which you can adjust right on the onboard menu. Try a setting, make a change, and repeat until you're happy. Maciej at ACR explained a good starting point is try and use the highest settings on motor strength without having the beast vibrate and shake.
 
Hi Peter,

Would the cables not need to have female Lemo connectors on rather than the FGA/FHJ ones you mention? I didn't think these Lemos could connect up male to male?

The connector on the camera shelf is the FGG.0B.302.CLAD52Z so wouldn't that need the female inline socket PHG.0B.302.CLLD52Z? I'm about to order some parts to knock up a custom cable to power my Sony F5 so was planning to run the PHG.0B.302.CLLD52Z to a 4 pin XLR but let me know if that's not right.

Incidentally I took delivery of my upgraded Beast last week and am planning to do some more tests before writing up my thoughts on how much of an improvement it is over V1 but it's safe to say that it's a lot more robust and reliable now.

All the best,
Joe
Hello Joe,

we have PHG.0B.302.CLLD52Z on camera shelf - and we will be connecting (male) FGG.0B.302.CLAD52Z to that socket.

Nrq7FiG.jpg


Best
Peter
 
Hello Joe,

we have PHG.0B.302.CLLD52Z on camera shelf - and we will be connecting (male) FGG.0B.302.CLAD52Z to that socket.

Best
Peter

Thanks Peter - my eyesight clearly isn't good enough as I hadn't spotted the PHG on the connector!

For anyone else knocking up custom cables I understand the pin nearest the red dot is NEGATIVE (standard RED, ARRI, Teradek polarity) but do be careful if buying made up cables as some are sold for other devices with the polarity switched (Redrock Micro seem to be one). It's also worth mentioning that depending on which wire gauge you go for you may need either a larger or smaller Collet so parts FGG.0B.302.CLAD31Z or FGG.0B.302.CLAD52Z may be needed instead. You can also get a strain relief boot for these plugs it seems which you need to order separately - the one for the part Peter mentioned is GMA.0B.045.DN in black and other colours are available.

Hopefully that's useful to someone!

Cheers,
Joe
 
Here we are at the end of 2015. I'm glad some units have shipped. Can we please get an explanation of when our own units will ship? I don't understand why it is STILL so hard to commit to a shipping schedule.
 
Hello,

I was trying to contact some of guys from that group buy to confirm delivery information, but I didn't receive replies. Please try to contact me at peter(at)acr-sys.com with information when you will be able to receive delivery.

I will create shipping schedule when I will receive those information.

Best
Peter
 
Piotr:

When will the cables ship?

Hello,

I was trying to contact some of guys from that group buy to confirm delivery information, but I didn't receive replies. Please try to contact me at peter(at)acr-sys.com with information when you will be able to receive delivery.

I will create shipping schedule when I will receive those information.

Best
Peter
 
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