Backlit scenes washed out on Komodo?

[Ryan Zimmer]

Hey all — just wondering if anyone else has found acquiring nice backlit shots on Komodo to be a bit more challenging. I unfortunately don’t have an opportunity anymore to test side-by-side with another RED sensor, but anecdotally I recall not having as hard a time with this on Dragon when I had that. Granted I am not using high quality cinema glass, often times the Sigma 18-35, but I am finding the image on occasion to be unusably washed out and low contrast, until I keep moving to find an angle that improves things somewhat. I just don’t recall having such a finicky experience with backlit scenes before Komodo, but otherwise I am thrilled with the little camera! Just curious if others have noticed this as well and or have any tips for better backlit practices.

 

[Phil Holland]

Shooting heavily backlit material is always going to push more light into a lens and sensor. Some lenses certainly are better at blocking some internal reflections and limiting some of that, but there's nothing the camera should be doing to impact that. I shoot heavily backlit stuff all the time. Moderately an artform in itself if you're going really crazy.

I guess my main tip is think about what you're seeing in frame versus what light may be hitting your lens. We're in an anti-matte box world, but flags and light control near the lens aren't ever going to go out of style as it's part of the key ways to control your image.

 

[Alex Lubensky]

Easily can be the lens adapter. Prior to DSMC3 most were using proper mounts (while even with those on early days of dsmc1 epic m suffered from gate flare issue) and those are built with this things in factor. While 3rd party adapters and lens mounts can be less good regarding this issue. I've met this first on Sony A7s series of cameras that depending on the adapter used the camera the gate can have some internal refllections that really destroy the contrast. I'd check the lens adapter first.

 

[Ryan Zimmer]

Thanks Alex and Phil for the responses - and you both brought up good points. Admittedly I've shifted towards wanting to be more nimble in recent years that my matte box has been underutilized and that is a good reminder to bring it along for just those occasions - and Alex I think you could have brought up a valid reason why I'm noticing it more on Komodo now, probably has nothing to do with the sensor but potentially the adapter, though I'm using both the Canon standard adapter and the Canon .71 focal reducer, I would imagine those could still be more susceptible to stray light than my previous native Canon EF mount on Dragon. Thanks for the feedback both of you!

P.S Phil - do you have a preferred choice for the lightest way to add 15mm rods to Komodo? My matte box is Genus-Tech and pretty light weight, height adaptable.

 

[M Harvey]

Two quick notes:

-On very rare occasions, I've found I actually get artifacts from a screw-in filter. So one more part of your optical chain to check out.
-If you don't have a matte box, a short piece of 2" black gaff carefully placed on the front edge of the lens barrel will often do the trick as a temporary method for shading your glass from a high backlight.

As for mounting a mattebox on a Komodo:
-my "extra lightweight" approach is to use a Wooden Camera top handle that includes dual 15mm rod mounts.
-Lighter still, however, is to use a clip-on mattebox. I have a Tilta MBT-12 that I use this way 90% of the time-- even when I have rods on the camera. You could also consider an ultra light clip-on-- essentially a rubber hood with updated design elements (like the Wooden Camera Zip, the Bright Tangerine Atom, or maybe the Basecamp. Make sure you get a top flag, which I find is especially useful when working with strong backlight).

 

[Ryan Zimmer]

Thanks as well Harvey - I'll be sure to do some test with and without filters up front. Your other tip inspired me to see what I had laying around on my rigging table, and I was able to put together something similar to the Wooden Camera top handle you mentioned with an older Zacuto top handle and a small-rig dual 15mm rod clamps. Seems to be a great on-the-fly solution that can come with me and not add much weight!

 

[Alex Lubensky]

I've used the Canon EF>EF-M adapter for the old EOS M for a long time and can confirm that Canon adapters aren't the best ones. It's a part of the Canon's struggle to sell more of the new lenses as I understand. Like yes, you have the adapter, but new lenses are "better".

I'd try some other adapter mounts (like Kipper Tie etc) for example, if you have some one around - and see if this would solve the issue. My bet that this might be the cause.