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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

awesome little find

Oje Unuigboje said:
I cannot find any information on the operating voltage of the Nyrius video thingy. Is it dual voltage will it work with 240 volts for the receiver ? Anyone knows ? THanks.
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It comes with a power adapter that operates from 100-240VAC for the receiver, so yes it should work, link.
 
Tim Whitcomb said:
Thanks for posting here Dan Kanes as I would never have heard of your product... definitely a pro tool and looks worth it even at 10X the cost... that said many people on here are barely affording a MAG for their Scarlets and Obin offers a nice low budget alternative... but if they fail like crazy after a feature shoot. then maybe they are not worth it.

Choices are always good but for my pro productions... i would just buy the Arrow -

but for small personal projects the knock off seems fine with some battery and case improvements ... but until these are really put thru the paces... its hard to say if you will need 5 of these and end up spending the same as an Arrow.
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Tim, any news on your pro-modding-front of the thingy?
 
So with this little Chinese device allow me to use my iPhone 4 as an Electronic viewfinder, if I put a loop on it?
The retina display might be quite nice to look at!
Question: how do I charge it if the phones plug is busy with this device?
 
I'll be shooting with both my modded unit and Dan's unit on a feature. Will let you guys know what's what and really looking forward to working with both.
 
Any feedback on the Nyrius model or the HDMI only model?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400319343245

Seems like that one is good because of its internal battery.

How are you guys mounting the transmitters to your scarlet? I wonder if the Nyrius transmitter can clear the back with one of those L-shaped HDMI connectors.
 
Roy Gregorio said:
Any feedback on the Nyrius model or the HDMI only model?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400319343245

Seems like that one is good because of its internal battery.

How are you guys mounting the transmitters to your scarlet? I wonder if the Nyrius transmitter can clear the back with one of those L-shaped HDMI connectors.
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Also, does the Nyrius transmitter get the power from the HDMI port on the EPIC/Scarlet?
 
Nikhil Kamkolkar said:
Also, does the Nyrius transmitter get the power from the HDMI port on the EPIC/Scarlet?
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From what I've read, it is powered from the micro usb port on the transmitter, which was meant to be plugged into your laptop.
 
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Roy Gregorio said:
Any feedback on the Nyrius model or the HDMI only model?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400319343245

Seems like that one is good because of its internal battery.

How are you guys mounting the transmitters to your scarlet? I wonder if the Nyrius transmitter can clear the back with one of those L-shaped HDMI connectors.
Click to expand...

The angle adapter doesn't clear the back of the camera so I went with this female to male HDMI cable: link. To power the XMTR I bought this 5V converter to USB. I also bought this D-Tap cable. The connector on this D-Tap cable has a single screw, if you are tech-savy enough you can unsolder the 5.5mm jack cable from the connector and resolder the 5V to USB cable in it's place. Or you can power the transmitter with the VF Brook P-Tap to USB.
 
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Noel R. said:
The angle adapter doesn't clear the back of the camera so I went with this female to male HDMI cable: link. To power the XMTR I bought this 5V converter to USB. I also bought this D-Tap cable. The connector on this D-Tap cable has a single screw, if you are tech-savy enough you can unsolder the 5.5mm jack cable from the connector and resolder the 5V to USB cable in it's place. Or you can power the transmitter with the VF Brook P-Tap to USB.
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Thanks for the setup! How do you have the transmitter physically mounted to the camera? Trying to figure out a way to keep it stationary.
 
Roy Gregorio said:
Thanks for the setup! How do you have the transmitter physically mounted to the camera? Trying to figure out a way to keep it stationary.
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VELCRO

534538_10151529378873084_878427443_n.jpg
 
Viewfactor seems to be sold out on the PTAP to USB adapter. Does anyone know of any other sources for this sort of thing? It looks like it would have been the easy way to connect.
 
Meryem Ersoz said:
Viewfactor seems to be sold out on the PTAP to USB adapter. Does anyone know of any other sources for this sort of thing? It looks like it would have been the easy way to connect.
Click to expand...

I think I heard a little bird talking about Viewfactor doing one with a full size USB plug. That may be the reason they've taken the other one down. Do love it to bits, though. Use mine all the time.
 
you don't happen to have a link, do you Dan? I've searched both of those sites fr about 15 minutes and don't seem to see a p-tap accessory which you are describing - there are other p-tap accessories but nothing with USB on the other end of it.
 
I've owned the Brite-View and Wicast wireless HDMI devices over the past 2 years, but I always had issues with them since I had to DIY the power adapter as pre-wired 5v power regulator/adapter were not as available as they seem to be now. The power regulators/cables I made seemed to cause problems after using them a couple times, and I accidentally plugged in the wrong wire once and fried my first brite-view about a year ago :( . Has anyone who is using these newer Nyrius and chinese systems also used the older brite-view/wicast systems and can say what the differences are if any? The chinese one is pretty interesting in that it includes an internal battery solution which could really simplify adding it to a camera rig.

Obin, what kind of battery is inside the cheaper chinese transmitter? I'd rather not have to do more DIY on these things, though if I could just replace the internal battery with a higher capacity one that lasts 8-12hrs and still fits inside the chassis, that would be very useful, but it sounds like that would not be possible?

Sounds like the Nyrius has much longer range and is probably better supported and better made, so that is probably the one to go with. Plus the 5V usb regulators out there now look a lot better than last time I was looking, so the DIY power cable is probably not such a big deal to put together, and the price is right.
 
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