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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Anamorphics

I just want to chime in here as an owner of kowas, and super speed anamorphics (k-35/shiga T1.4) . Ive also owned and used lomos etc.. In total I own 12 working anamorphics and I have more lenses in the works. Ive taken them apart, Ive shot with them all, Ive compared them all.

the iscorama is a good choice for super 35 (or other 16x9 sized) sensors

heres why:

squeeze: 1.5x -- not as 3d looking as 2x but more so than 1.33x which IMO does not have interesting look at all. If you ask me the 1.33x lenses u might as well just crop spherical. u might get a cool flare here and there, but I dont think its enough to warrant it. u shoot anamorphic for the look right? , the 3d bokeh and separation. look at the test above with the 1.33x lens, not interesting for me.

if u use a 2x on 16x9 u get 3.55, which is a wierd aspect.

focus:
the iscorama is a diopter focusing lens. the 1st 2 lenses are diopters, it is a copy or similar to the lomo roundfront anamorphic
dual focusing non - integrated lenses are also a pain in the a$#@ to use. diopter focusing lenses are the same optically as the panavision auto panatar,except that the diopter is in front instead of in between the anamorphic glass and the spherical (taking) prime lens, it uses the diopter to keep the squeeze ratio constant as the lens is focused. kowa anamorphics do not have this feature and Although I have not tested it, I have heard that at close focuses they can give some mumping


flares: nice vertical flares but not overly flarey. they flare a little different to other lenses.
weight: small and very lightweight
focus throw: 300 degrees at least, so u can get some good rack changes in
min focus: 6 feet ( not the best)
focal length ranges: 40mm to telephoto (should be ok even to 135mm)

heres some more pertinent info: shooting faster than T1.4 is not reccomended for anamorphics. basically the anamorphic lens dramatically changes the depth of field of the lens. so when ur shooting at T1.4 the depth of field is so small, u can even really tell the sharpness of the lens. add on that the anamorphic glass can be similar to adding a 1/8 haze or soft effects in front of the lens (its a lot of glass). Ive heard from many people that they could not even come close to getting the panavision super speed anamorphics sharp wide open, u had to stop them down a bit to use them, even in super low light situations.

u want a low budget setup?

buy the following lenses :

Konica or Olympus 40 1.8
leica 50/2
leica 60/2.8
leica 90/2
leica 135/2.8

and get a 1.5x iscorama

this would be a killer setup for a GH4 in 4/3 mode, or with a 16x9 sony, red dragon or other small run and gun camera.

in a few more years, ISO is going to be so clean at high levels I would think that u wont need 1.4 lenses
 
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Here are some frames (ungraded) from a recent trip to Wales with an Isco 1.5x (pre-36), all on a Contax 35-70 (at 40mm f3.4 with Genus fader and Hoya IR Cut). Once you get the hang of it it's quite easy to work with, and the final aspect ratio of 2.66:1 isn't too offensive or could be cropped to 2.39:1 without losing too much resolution. This is on a Blackmagic 2.5k 16:9. 4:3 mode on a GH4 would be ideal. I had a Tokina diopter too but decided to keep it off for my run n gun setup and work around the 6 foot minimum focus.

http://wearecrywolf.com/214990/4475534/moving-image/wild-horses

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Hah, Thanks Andrew...I think! The kackmagic (catchy!) is my personal camera, it does make nice pictures in the right conditions and the Isco helps out a lot with the 2.3 crop factor. Ben has an Epic, so we use that for our 'real' work. I'll test this setup with the Epic shortly and report back. On our last test we couldn't get the Isco/taking lens to reliably achieve focus, most likely down to the taking lens. Ben has a nice set of Contax primes now (and me the zooms) due to that lovely Contax thread here. Couldn't be happier with them.
 
Michael Frymus said:
In not saying there is NO character in them at all. I do like these lenses a lot, but the bigger problem is speed. I'm constantly shooting in low light environments, and just need something faster than f/2.8
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If you need something faster than f/2.8 then you need to give up any anamorphic aspirations I'm afraid. Only the newest and most expensive anas are much good at f/2.8.
 
Mark K. said:
If you need something faster than f/2.8 then you need to give up any anamorphic aspirations I'm afraid. Only the newest and most expensive anas are much good at f/2.8.
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To me anamophics gives so such shallow dof as it is so going lower than 5.6 is something I would only do for lack of light... With the lowlight olpf it's not that often thats needed. Hawks looks sharp but shallow wide open, but just as master primes or such I find the dof a bit over done.
 
Björn Benckert said:
To me anamophics gives so such shallow dof as it is so going lower than 5.6 is something I would only do for lack of light... With the lowlight olpf it's not that often thats needed. Hawks looks sharp but shallow wide open, but just as master primes or such I find the dof a bit over done.
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I tend to agree. Which is why I think that if Michael needs faster than f/2.8 on a camera as incredible in low light as the C300 - Anas are simply not for him... and most certainly not the ones anywhere near his (or most mere mortals) budgets!
 
Regarding the Zeiss ZE's, i recently purchased a set of Zeiss ZF.2's (Same lens apart from the focus rings and different mount - as my Red One MX has a Nikon mount) and there fantastic lenses. Super sharp and clean. I've since bought an adapter and i've whacked them on my DSLR as well for a few jobs, and it brings the image to a whole other level.

Regarding the Anamorphics, i have a Sankor 16c, which optically is no match on the Isco's or Lomos etc, but it still gives me nice results. I picked one up in the U.K for about £250. I then went to the Vid-Atlantic website (http://www.vid-atlantic.com/anamorphic/) and bought the correct clamp so i could pair my anamorphic adapter with a taking lens. Again, as this is no Lomo or Isco, you have to manual focus both lenses, but it's really not as much of a pain in the backside as some people make out, i've shot run and gun stuff with it before, (DSLR not RED) following the talent around with a fairly low f.stop due to low light and it turned out great.


I'm actually shooting a short narrative with my Sankor paired with the 50mm ZF.2 later on this month, so i'll post some stills once there up.

Regarding the ZE's i'd defiantly recommend them for a budget prime.

Hope this helps.
 
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Also shooting on a Red One MX with a kit of Zeiss ZE's. Beautiful lenses, crazy sharp, beautiful focus, really well made.

Occasionally have paired them with a Sankor 16 too, great results but kind of tedious to work with the adaptors.
 
Danny Dunlop said:
Also shooting on a Red One MX with a kit of Zeiss ZE's. Beautiful lenses, crazy sharp, beautiful focus, really well made.

Occasionally have paired them with a Sankor 16 too, great results but kind of tedious to work with the adaptors.
Click to expand...


Sounds like you have a sweet set up there :wink5: haha
 
Great thread. Seems that the price hurdle may be difficult to overcome. Anamorphics aren't likely to be had for a few thousand dollars. I've seen a lot of wide frames with the anamorphic adapters and contax/projector combos, but many seem to offer a wide frame but not the shallow DOF inherent in a true anamorphic.

I'd look for a set of SS still glass like the Canon FDs. You can have a mostly F1.2 set of L glass with EF conversion kits from Ed Mika for $5-6K. Not too shabby. For HD/WEB/INDIE work until the bigger budgets come in you could always letterbox down to your desired aspect ratio. Resolution would be lost but at least in HD it shouldn't be noticeable. And, you could still have the shallow DOF by shooting toward WFO.

Really enjoying all the comments!

H
 
The only true anamorphic lenses that you are going to find for a few thousand dollars are 0ct18 Lomo square fronts. They are pretty good and have a lot of character but are actually 2 separate lenses a spherical prime and anamorphic front adapter that are focused in unison via a metal tab that locks them together. Because of this they then to get out of synch and any one you find will most likely need to be serviced. I have also seen some vintage Japanese primes go in the $1500 - $2000 range recently with a eyemo mount. I have never seen any footage from them and have no idea how they are but appear to be similar design to the Lomos.

Both of these options will not work on EF mount and are only really an option for MFT and E mount cameras. The cheapest anamorphic primes you can get for a EF mount are OCT19 Lomo Squarefronts which I believe can be converted to EF via a adapter - not %100 sure though. These are better lenses, newer and are monoblock design. You can still pick these up occasionally for around $4000.

Of course there are the cheap projection lenses but you are stuck with dual focus. My personal favorite for those is the Kowa 16H, it is about the widest option you can get. There are also the Iscorama's that are single focus but are only 1.5 stretch which doesn't have the same feel as a 2x in my opinion. If you get a projection lens there are single focus adapters out there. They sit in front of the adapter so they add considerable length and size to the lens. One is the FM module and the other is a Rectilux and can be used with lenses like the Kowa. The Retilix is a line of lenses that include 2x single focus adapters. They are vintage glass that has been rehoused and allow for single focus and close focus as well. I really like the idea of them but am not that fond of the look of the actual lens design but the quality seems good. Any single focus option will put you in the $2500 - $4000 range.

Info on these can be found at the anamorphic forum at eoshd.

Lastly the only cheap single focus adapter that can be found, sometimes for $100, is the Bell and Howell 16mm projection lens. It is small which limits your options but is single focus - although it has the longest focus throw I have ever seen, over 1000 degrees.
 
Just in case your still making your mind up, here's a few still's from a shoot i DP'd on a week ago. Shot on RED ONE MX with Zeiss ZF.2 primes (50mm) as the taking lens, and a Sankor 16c Anamorphic adapter. Lightly graded with Film Convert by someone else, the image was completely clean, the grain has been added for effect. Excuse the compression curtsy of photobucket.
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Anamorphic on the budget is possible,
here is Nikon 50mm +Kowa 16H projection lens
Not Cooke, but on the budget :)
i would stay away from any 1,3x adapters, like Panasonic LA 7200, or SLR M. anamorphot, to my eye they have very little anamorphic characteristics;
letus has 1.8x adapter @ $3500, but i believe $500 Kowa projection lens will give you the same result, if not better,
Just got another adapter from ebay for $300 , supposed to give me great flares :)
 

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