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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

4.7" LCD is pretty green... Just how this monitor is or do I have a bad unit?

Josh Becker

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My 4.7" LCD is very green.. is there any way to dial this out on the monitor? Do I just live with it and use it for framing reference only? Because of course tint+WB can be tweaked with RAW... but I like having a monitor I can trust to be pretty accurate.

Anyone else have this?
 
Which camera is this happening with?

I know that when you're using an Epic Dragon and you have a Skin tone highlight installed, yet the software is set to the Low Light OLPF, you'll end up with very green footage. This can be fixed in REDcine.

Would it be possible that you have the wrong OLPF/software combo?

Just a thought.

Good luck,

- Jan
 
I'm seeing the exact same thing on my Scarlet-W but it's strangely inconsistent. Depends on the lighting situation. Less with natural daylight, it seems.
 
On Epic Dragon, I usually set tint to -3 if the STH OLPF is used.
 
Which camera is this happening with?

I know that when you're using an Epic Dragon and you have a Skin tone highlight installed, yet the software is set to the Low Light OLPF, you'll end up with very green footage. This can be fixed in REDcine.

Would it be possible that you have the wrong OLPF/software combo?

Just a thought.

Good luck,

- Jan


This is on my Epic-W and it's not the footage, it's really just the monitor. I've been on multiple sets now with nice external displays (calibrated Panasonics) and when they are side-by-side, it definitely looks like there is just a slight green tint. Maybe the LED backlighting?


I'm seeing the exact same thing on my Scarlet-W but it's strangely inconsistent. Depends on the lighting situation. Less with natural daylight, it seems.

Yeah, I'm with you there, I've done a lot of outdoor shooting (also, coincidentally not shooting with bigger nicer monitors with these shoots) that I haven't really noticed it, but on the studio/location shoots I've had (and when we've been using more tungsten-oriented color temps) have I noticed the green more apparently.
 
I've noticed it with the Epic-W, Standard OLPF, and the 7" Touch in tungsten low light situations. The monitor has a decidedly green/yellow look.
 
Wouldn't this be something that could be fixed with some adjustments in a future firmware update?
 
Wouldn't this be something that could be fixed with some adjustments in a future firmware update?


Depends on if it's caused by the camera vs the LCD and whether or not it's effecting every 4.7" LCD. And if it is being caused by the LCD, is it the LCD panel itself or is it the backlighting? And if it's a general color cast that's inherent in the LCD panel or the backlight, how effective would a firmware-side adjustment be? I suppose in theory a slight magenta cast over the video signal would cancel out the green cast but I worry about other weirdness occurring from that.
 
Depends on if it's caused by the camera vs the LCD and whether or not it's effecting every 4.7" LCD. And if it is being caused by the LCD, is it the LCD panel itself or is it the backlighting? And if it's a general color cast that's inherent in the LCD panel or the backlight, how effective would a firmware-side adjustment be? I suppose in theory a slight magenta cast over the video signal would cancel out the green cast but I worry about other weirdness occurring from that.

If it's an isolated issue on your camera it's nothing that could be done other than for you to send it in. But if it's in general a calibration of the monitor is all that's needed. How do you think color grade displays are tweaked? All displays need calibration if they are off the standards and there's nothing weird about that.
 
Just switched over to the 4.7 from my 5.0 touch and it definitely has a pretty significant green tint. In some scenarios a -20 tint to counter balance the shift. Also seems a lot less noticeable in daylight. Definitely annoying considering jumping up to the 7.0 even more now.
 
In theory, you could use the 3D LUT in camera to fix the attached display. You just need to be able to send test patterns through the camera to the display to profile the display and create a LUT.

I worked with Mark, on the OMOD, to get the test pattern gen in the OMOD fully functional for this very reason. CalMAN, the software I develop, can connect to OMOD and control it. It will use the OMOD as a test pattern generator to profile the attached display and create a 3D correction LUT. Works great! Then you can use the LUT in the OMOD to calibrate the display and the LUT in camera to load a look. Unless you are looking at a calibrated display, a look is not going to do you any good.
 
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