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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

10 Bulb CFL Brute (Sample Video)

Charles Angus said:
You could always just put a mogul adapter in an edison base... With these low-current CFLs, it should be fine.
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Where do you get these? I have found the edison to mogul adapters, but I have not been able to track down an adapter that goes the other way.
 
Brilliant, thanks for sharing. :)

Richard's lights / products are great- that bulb should be nice too. Too bad it is not in stock until November!
 
The 200w 8U bulb is in stock now in both 3200K and 5600K. Not sure where the November came from. If you see a "Buy Now" button next to a product on our site, its in stock.
 
Richard Andrewski said:
The 200w 8U bulb is in stock now in both 3200K and 5600K. Not sure where the November came from. If you see a "Buy Now" button next to a product on our site, its in stock.
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Oops, my mistake. I'm used to seeing / looking for the little text that says when it will be in stock, and I saw on the site November just above the add to cart button. (But that is when the item was added to the store, in 2007!)
 
Dustin Cross said:
Richard,

Would you be interested in manufacturing something like I mentioned? A ten 200w CFL fixture with a soft box? I know I can make it myself, but you'll probably make it much nicer than I would.

Dusty
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Obviously those are about the simplest fixture and yes it would be easy but I generally tend to pick my projects from the "sacred cows" (things way overpriced) first.

When you look around at the prices on the multi-cfl fixtures available now (which most come from the same place in China--Lishuai Yuyao Photo, a prominent manufacturer of that type stuff) its what I would call "just a little overpriced". Not enough to make me want to really jump on top of it like an LED or HMI project, if you see what I mean.

But its not just the fixture though. To do that right you need to carry the bulbs too because the fixture itself is "dumb" with no real electronics inside. Thus, its another bulb for us to take on which has a bit of a start up cost for the first time we make them. If we did it though, we'd probably do a 85w for that type fixture. There aren't that many 85w color correct, high CRI bulbs available out there and its down right impossible to find the 3200K one if that's what you want. 65w could work too of course but I would pick one and not do both.
 
Ryan E. Walters said:
I personally liked the look for that shoot (music video), so I did not add any correction. However, a minus green gel (Probably around 1/4 to 1/2) should bring these back into alignment. I'm also still looking for a higher CRI bulb. Right now most of what I am finding is in the 80 - 84 range. I would prefer to get up to 90 - 95 range.
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Ryan Check these out: CRI 93 and 3000 lumens for about $13 at lightbulbemporium

ColorMaster Digital Imaging SP50/955K

Item Description:
50W 120V Spiral 5500K 90+ CRI E26 Self Ballasted Compact Fluorescent

http://www.lightbulbemporium.com/eiko_05622ek_sp50_955k.asp

http://www.lightbulbemporium.com/eiko_05622ek_sp50_955k.asp
 
Ryan, at Home Depot last night, they've lowered the price on their 23w 5500k 88cri bulbs down to $4.47 for a two-pack. Cheap, cheap. I now want to make me a board to hold like 3 dozen of them.
 
Shawn Nelson said:
Ryan, at Home Depot last night, they've lowered the price on their 23w 5500k 88cri bulbs down to $4.47 for a two-pack. Cheap, cheap. I now want to make me a board to hold like 3 dozen of them.
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Nice! Getting very affordable! With the smaller bulbs the trade off then becomes the size of the actual light. My only concern with 3 dozen of the 23w'ers is how big of a footprint would that light make? I do like that price point, and that I can go to my local store to get them. Thanks for the heads up. :)
 
Ryan E. Walters said:
Nice! Getting very affordable! With the smaller bulbs the trade off then becomes the size of the actual light. My only concern with 3 dozen of the 23w'ers is how big of a footprint would that light make? I do like that price point, and that I can go to my local store to get them. Thanks for the heads up. :)
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I've two thoughts on that. Last night I found you can get the ceramic medium base for like $1.49, and it's about 3.5" around. I was thinking 6 rows of 6 in a square, that's only a 21"x21" fixture, very reasonable in size.

I could then put each row of six on it's own switch and power input. For low-wattage (fluoro or led), I could just output each one to the same supply. But, since the ceramic base is capable of 660w, it would easy handle a 250w photoflood. Each strip of 6 would be 15amps, so if you ran your cords right, you could go from 1500w to 9000w of tungsten. Not sure i'd want to go that crazy, but could be very useful. 36x23w would be 828w of fluoro draw, for a 3600w equiv in less than a 2x2 size.

Problem is, not sure what to mount it to. Thankfully the bulbs arent that heavy, I wonder if plywood would work? Or maybe thin aluminum bonded to plywood.
 
Yeah that solution would not be too big, and I think it could work. On the light that I modified, I liked the small footprint of the sockets that they used, so I think that the light could get even smaller if a socket like this was used:
http://www.lightbulbemporium.com/satco_90_419_90_419.asp
http://www.lightbulbemporium.com/satco_80_2652_80_2652.asp
http://www.lightbulbemporium.com/satco_90_409_90_409.asp

I haven't seen anything like this at home depot or at my local hardware store yet.

As for what to mount it to- I would suggest mounting it to a piece of thick plastic. (That is what is inside of the light that I modified.) Plywood would work, but I think that is would get heavy quick. Plastic seems to be a light weight solution that would not be conductive. Then the housing could be metal.

The tricky part I am trying to figure out now is how to mount it to a stand or a C-Stand. Anyone have any ideas or thoughts on that?
 
Hmm, I suppose that or any other baby plate could work, but I am hoping to find a the female side then I do not have to use up a grip head.

Thanks for the find though, I didn't know that they made slanted baby plates, that could really come in handy form time to time. :)
 
I wonder where we could get thin, shiny aluminum to use as a backing?
 
Shawn Nelson said:
I wonder where we could get thin, shiny aluminum to use as a backing?
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I haven't checked yet, but Park Rose Hardware has all kinds of things like that- usually if Home Depot doesn't have it, then Park Rose does. I'll let you know what I find out. :)
 
Charles Angus said:
I would vote against plywood for lights, as it is brutally heavy.

Metal is way, way stronger per unit weight.
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Use Plywood with Gaboon core, its very light. Its usually sold as marine plywood. But be sure to specify Gaboon as the material or it wont be so light. You can some times get non marine Gaboon ply, the only difference is that the internal cores arnt continuous which makes no difference in this application.

Recently we used clear Polycarbonate fluted sheet. Its similar in appearance to the material that Kino Flo use. Its used for Conservatory roofs, 4mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm and other thickness available, its also known as Lexan which is used in thicker sheets for very high strength windows. Its very light and very strong, and inexpensive. polycarbonate is also stiffer than other similar correx materials. Either is available cut to size via vendors on the web. I think youd need 8mm to make it rigid enough for attaching fittings to.

The poly carbonate roofing material is clear so we covered one side with black vynal and the other in a silver mirror finish for one wall olight type fixture we built. You can get this online or from Signage shops on ine of a high street store. If you do use this then theres a trick to sticking it on by using a very light application of water and detergent to slide it about whilst getting the bubbles out from under it. Its very easy to do when youve seen it done once, may be get the sign shop to show you how.
 
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