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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Quickplate V-Lock Battery module ready to ship

Jarred Land said:
Nope, XL adapter goes straight to the back of the camera. This is a preference thing.... If you have the +1 module and are powering a bunch of stuff and mulitple monitors then you probably wont this vlock solution as you are going to get a great run time. The REDVOLT XL adapter ( which doesn't exist yet remember :) ) is more for small as possible compact configuration. There are also alot of people witha whole whackload of REDBRICKS/IDX Vlocks or rental customers that need a more standard V-lock interface for power.
Click to expand...

XL is going to be for me... when it exists ;) But this I need on my shelf for other people and acc's heavy days.
 
Thanks Jarred, so now we will start asking for bricks that are "epic shaped"... :)

Another questions, a bit of topic.

What is the heat limit on the bricks, and do they generate the same amount of heat when running as the small volts ?
Why I ask is because last week we went under water with our epic in a custom made UW house using the quad module and 4 Volts. The water was rather hot and it turned out that the batteries overheated which made them shut down the camera. The volt batteries says max 60C so I guess they have an internal temp meter and shut off when things get hot. The housing is supposed to transfer the heat to the water but the volts generated a bit to much heat I guess. Then we swapped to a Vlock solution and it was running fine but then also the water was a bit colder. But to me it seams that the volts get hotter than bigger batteries but we did not have time to do any scientific testing. Also it would be nice if "battery overheat" could let the camera shut down in a nice way. As it is now it seams like the camera just shuts off and if being in record then it looses the last clip.
 
Since there is no d-tap, can someone point me to a cable that will power my Redrock Wireless Remote FF from this? Thanks.
 
+1 I also thought this could plug straight to the camera's back; THAT would be awesome.

Isaac Marchionna said:
Damn, if I used the +1 module I'd be all over this, but needing the Adapter Module makes it not right for my needs. This is me not saying I dislike the product, as it appeals to people who probably benefit from the +1. I can't see why you'd own the adapter module and then terminate it with the V-lock battery module.

Very cool. I originally thought it bolted RIGHT to the back of the brain.
Click to expand...
 
Kemalettin Sert said:
remember Jarred said once there ll be no D-taps on Red products.Red hates D-Tap
Click to expand...

I am not complaining about the lack of a d-tap but, right now, the only power cable I have for my Redrock Remote FF is d-tap to lemo. I need to locate a cable that will go out of this module and into my Redrock Base Station. That's all. :smiley:

(And, just for the record, my RED-manufactured v-mount battery belt has a d-tap. LOL)
 
I would totally D-Tap that. Terry, I happen to have a cable to go from the +1 module power out to the RRM FF. This works fine with the Teradek but not at all with the FF... I get the Power Draw warning and the Aux Out shuts down. I wonder how it will be with the outs on this new back? My workaround has been to use Switronix Bricks that have built in DTaps... less convenient battery swaps but it works.
 
This looks great! Will the bottom of this setup clear the top of the shoulder bracket on the Clutch?
 
Jarred Land said:
Nope, XL adapter goes straight to the back of the camera. This is a preference thing.... If you have the +1 module and are powering a bunch of stuff and mulitple monitors then you probably wont this vlock solution as you are going to get a great run time. The REDVOLT XL adapter ( which doesn't exist yet remember :) ) is more for small as possible compact configuration. There are also alot of people witha whole whackload of REDBRICKS/IDX Vlocks or rental customers that need a more standard V-lock interface for power.
Click to expand...

Ok so no way of running XL rear module and +1 together?

Then I'm happy with our quad module... But I guess I also need this V lock thing to be able to get more juice out of the camera, or?

As if I understand the two pin lemos on this V mount thing can provide more power then the 4 pin lemo on the +1.... can sombody confirm? Like if I want to run an remote FF and the terradeck bolt at the same time... can I do that with volts / voltXLs?
 
Very cool and certainly something people asked for.


Adam Van Dyke said:
This looks great! Will the bottom of this setup clear the top of the shoulder bracket on the Clutch?
Click to expand...

From what I see, yes it clears.
 
Joseph Hutson said:
Cool. I have had ours on pre-order for awhile and can't wait to get it with the backpack we have already received.
Click to expand...

ths does not go with the backpack. thats the other Vmount option with a cable. This sits on adapter module or +1. Just so you do not order the wrong one....
 
Awesome. I just got the cable version and sold my module adapter few weeks ago.
Makes me feel like an I....t

There is no triad in program for the cable version by any chance? ; )

///
 
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Christopher Barrett said:
I would totally D-Tap that. Terry, I happen to have a cable to go from the +1 module power out to the RRM FF. This works fine with the Teradek but not at all with the FF... I get the Power Draw warning and the Aux Out shuts down. I wonder how it will be with the outs on this new back? My workaround has been to use Switronix Bricks that have built in DTaps... less convenient battery swaps but it works.
Click to expand...

Hmmm... I have been experimenting with the FF unit with the d-tap cable running from my current RED v-mount plate (the belt clip style which isn't convenient for this usage). But, while that is going on, the camera itself is being powered by a separate Redvolt.

Does your experience suggest that a Brick doesn't have enough juice to run the camera and the RRM FF? Does the FF Base Station draw that much?
 
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