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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

What filters do you consider essential?

Matt W.

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Just trying to outfit a (very low end) kit. For the purposes of this kit, I am willing to shoot as slow as 200 ISO.

ND3
ND6
ND9
ND1.2
ND1.5 (?)

2 stop grad
3 stop grad

Polarizer

Diffusion (?)

85B
80A

Am I good? This is a super low end kit, so anything that won't get used on the reg will be rentals only. Thanks!
 
You may want to make those IR/ND combos.

In terms of grads, I only carry an ND.60 soft edge grad, sometimes also an ND.60 Attenuator. The ND.30 grad is too mild to be worth the extra glass and the ND.90 is too strong most of the time.

You don't need an 85 filter for digital cameras and you probably can get away with a lighter blue than the 80A.
 
In terms of grads, I only carry an ND.60 soft edge grad, sometimes also an ND.60 Attenuator. The ND.30 grad is too mild to be worth the extra glass and the ND.90 is too strong most of the time.

Mr. Mullen...w/out sounding like an obscene kiss ass...I have to tell you how exciting it is every time you post. You are one of my favorite forum members on REDUSER, bar none.

My google docs file on "Scarlet Workflow" is literally littered with your suggestions on lighting, filters, etc. I've just clipped your note about the Black Magic filter last week...

Thanks so much for your generous contributions to this board, and just your fantastic demeanor...its a rewarding and constant reminder of how fun and collaborative film-making can be.

A big hearty thanks...

I'm also an avid reader of American Cinematographer, and your spirit of open-ness reminds me a lot of the philosophy of the magazine, and its mission to spread a true appreciation of the craft.

Thanks again for being willing to share!
 
Thanks! I will skip the 85B filter.

Nick, those are the three filters I was considering. Due to price...I might get 1/2 and 1/4 black promist and add them to the kit last. I'm curious what filters Robert Richardson used (I know it was some variety of promist) to get his signature look, but chances are that will be a special purpose or rental item for me.
 
Matt, agree with Mr. Mullen; you WILL want combos, or a separate hot mirror filter to use with the NDs. The first time you try to use significant ND without IR filtration, you'll understand why! I had to try it for myself; oh dear.

Mike
 
Thanks, I will keep that in mind.

But other than NDs, a grad, polarizers, and some diffusion filters...not much else is needed? Just wondering what I'll be expected to have when I show up on set.
 
Is it okay to stack IR nds? is it better to use 1 strong IR ND and non IR (under .9) if needed?
 
Is it okay to stack IR nds? is it better to use 1 strong IR ND and non IR (under .9) if needed?

You know I've never tried that. But logic says it should be fine; so long as you have at least one IR cut at some point in the stack, none of the IR will make it through to the sensor to cause a colour shift.

Mike
 
But other than NDs, a grad, polarizers, and some diffusion filters...not much else is needed? Just wondering what I'll be expected to have when I show up on set.
I would also recommend that you pick up an optical flat (clear filter). Use it to protect your lens when things are flying toward you, or when working around water.

That said, you shouldn't be expected to show up with any filters on set for free, either as an AC or a DP. You should be getting rental on them, don't sell yourself short!

Diffusion is a very personal thing. You should rent a few different sets for two or three projects to see what you like and don't like. For me, I'm a fan of blacks nets and soft cons, I think they are very organic looking. I like what Classic Soft family of filters do to in-focus areas but hate the bokeh. The HD family I feel is too subtle. Not a big fan of Glimmerglass, Promists, or Fog filters. Just try them out and see what you like.
 
I dont recommend stacking IRND or HMND filtration. I've tested Schneider, Tiffen, and Formatt. You will notice both color and image quality issues. They are pretty much designed in such a way that you dont have to stack. You can mix regular ND with them however.
 
Since I rent my camera packages, usually the filters come from the rental house, though sometimes the AC's rent their own sets to the production. So the only filters I own are oddball diffusion filters that I don't use that often but may need now and then -- I have, for example, a #1/4 Fog, a #1/4 White Frost, a #1/4 Hollywood Black Magic, and a 3mm Blue Streak filter. Plus my homemade black net filters. Now if I'm going to diffuse a whole show on multiple cameras, then I'll rent sets of what I need, so my small collection is just for the occasional shot.

Diffusion filters range from the "mist" types that are more designed for a foggy halation around lights, versus ones that soften detail, some of which cause more halation than others.
 
I dont recommend stacking IRND or HMND filtration. I've tested Schneider, Tiffen, and Formatt. You will notice both color and image quality issues. They are pretty much designed in such a way that you dont have to stack. You can mix regular ND with them however.
Phil,I have a .9 and 1.8 HMND Formatt filters. So you are saying its OK for me to stack say a .3 regular ND behind the HMND? Because I was jus thinking of picking up one of those. Thanks for the confirmation.
 
Phil,I have a .9 and 1.8 HMND Formatt filters. So you are saying its OK for me to stack say a .3 regular ND behind the HMND? Because I was jus thinking of picking up one of those. Thanks for the confirmation.

Toughie. Without knowing brands and testing it myself I have no idea. I have had acceptable results stacking IRND/HMND with normal ND filtration. However, and this is likely the biggest deal for me. I almost never have more then 1 or 2 filters in front of my glass. If I can get away with one I do. I use .9 and 1.8 the most myself. 0.6 a close third.

I would say 90% of my shooting is behind 1 HMND Formatt or other ND. If I'm shooting tungsten I'll use a up to a 1/2 CTB to bring things up to 5000k-ish and ND if appropriate. That said if I'm using tungsten I have enough control to not need ND at all.
 
I unfortunately must disagree, respectfully of course with David, as I have found my self needed even the 1.8 ND in more then one occasion, when wanting Shallow DOF while shooting mid day in the desert, so definitely do keep up to 1.8 ND's in you kit, but I do agree with David, that the .3 is useless and just adds weight and an extra layer of glass without any real benefit.

I also further do agree that the Combo IR/ND are a most for those occasions were is really needed.


Additionally don't be willing to go as low as 200 ISO, I prefer to stay at 800 Native ISO and put a stronger ND.

Soft Graduates are also a must, I have form .6 and up in both Landscape and Vertical for my portrait work.

Schneider are the only ones I use.

PS: If you need a good place to buy them at a discounted price email or PM me, I'll give you the contact.
 
I unfortunately must disagree, respectfully of course with David, as I have found my self needed even the 1.8 ND in more then one occasion, when wanting Shallow DOF while shooting mid day in the desert, so definitely do keep up to 1.8 ND's in you kit, but I do agree with David, that the .3 is useless and just adds weight and an extra layer of glass without any real benefit.

I was talking about ND grads, not regular ND's. I try to carry up to an ND1.8 if possible.

I use the regular ND.30 all the time actually but often indoors when I want to control depth of field, reduce it by a stop.
 
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