Way to Turn Off "Color Space" - Just Grade Redlog Film?

[Jason Honeycutt]

Hi all. I'm wondering if there's a way to just turn off 'Color Space' instead of having to select one. I found a round-about way of doing it in Avid but ideally, I'd love to just do it at the source and pre-grade JUST the Gamma Curve of "Redlog Film." When I add most LUTs, they come in too crunchy unless I use a 709 version of them, but they're usually not as pure.

It doesn't seem like we can ever 'not' select a color space, though. If this can't be done right now, can I put in a request to have that as one of the upgrades...? All we'd need is a check mark, like with the various add-ons, like Alchemy, where we can engaged it or not.

Thanks for any info though... I'm hoping there's a way, currently, to do it.

 

[Steve Sherrick]

Have you tried RedWideGamutRGB and Log3G10?

 

[Jason Honeycutt]

Have you tried RedWideGamutRGB and Log3G10?

I don't seem to have those options... but maybe because the footage is an MX sensor...? I have build 42.41605.

 

[Hrvoje Simic]

Hi all. I'm wondering if there's a way to just turn off 'Color Space' instead of having to select one. I found a round-about way of doing it in Avid but ideally, I'd love to just do it at the source and pre-grade JUST the Gamma Curve of "Redlog Film." When I add most LUTs, they come in too crunchy unless I use a 709 version of them, but they're usually not as pure.

It doesn't seem like we can ever 'not' select a color space, though. If this can't be done right now, can I put in a request to have that as one of the upgrades...? All we'd need is a check mark, like with the various add-ons, like Alchemy, where we can engaged it or not.

Thanks for any info though... I'm hoping there's a way, currently, to do it.

If there is no colour space there is no colour.
Gamma defines relation of image luminance values and in RLF is already set. You don't grade the input gamma, you grade based on input gamma and for target gamma. Input gamma defines how the signal luminance is mapped, target/output gamma how you are seeing it on your monitor and you shape the signal based on those two.

Just use RWG for colour basis as Steve said and pick base gamma which you prefer.

If LUTs are messing up the image you are a) using them incorrectly or b) using crap LUTs or c) both.
If base gamma is too contrasty and base colour mostly defined, signal push by a randomly picked and more drastic LUT will slam the signal into extremes, in either luminance or saturation or both, and/or tear up the signal, all of which you may rationalize as "crunchy".

 

[Steve Sherrick]

Jason, have a look at these threads.
http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?152780-Holiday-Update-IPP2-Preview-Build
http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?154489-FEB-Update-IPP2-Preview-2

 

[Steve Sherrick]

Also, your MX sensor reaps some benefit from the updated color science.

Also, have a look at Hrvoje's approach here
http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?153751-Improving-the-Camera-The-Image&highlight=

Lots of new developments happening. A lot just comes down to finding what works best for you and your images but hopefully this gets you up to date with latest RED offerings.

 

[Marc Wielage]

Hi all. I'm wondering if there's a way to just turn off 'Color Space' instead of having to select one. I found a round-about way of doing it in Avid but ideally, I'd love to just do it at the source and pre-grade JUST the Gamma Curve of "Redlog Film." When I add most LUTs, they come in too crunchy unless I use a 709 version of them, but they're usually not as pure.

You could just color-correct in display-referenced Rec709. It's pretty much done every day in Resolve, and I often use DragonColor and RedLogFilm as a starting point. No need to use a LUT if you don't want to. But it never hurts to compare what the material would look like decoded through DragonColor/DragonGamma or RedGamma4.

It helps to shoot color charts to understand where the white balance is going, and it also helps to avoid mixed lighting unless you specifically like that kind of "contaminated" look. My preference is to correct in a color-optimized specific program like Resolve (or Baselight or Lustre or Nucoda or Pablo), something specifically designed for color.

There are lots of good tutorials out there that explain the basics of color management, color spaces, and the essentials of color correction. Alexis Van Hurkman's Color Correction Handbook is a good place to start. And use a calibrated monitor.