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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

True or False fact about Redgamma3

Tarek salman

Tarek salman

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Is it true if you shoot using Redgamma3 setup you get less encoding Gamma instead you where shot in it on Redfilmlog3???I know the Redfilm3 is big help for cineon film scans and custom LUTs.
 
Richard Luke said:
Not true
it all depends on what gamma you choose when working in post. Gamma in camera can be changed in RCX and other post software before any output
Click to expand...

+1

REDgamma and REDcolor is to what color space you debayer your RAW files (R3D rushes). It has an affect on post but not on your actual RAW files.

Pat
 
Tarek salman said:
Is it true if you shoot using Redgamma3 setup you get less encoding Gamma instead you where shot in it on Redfilmlog3???I know the Redfilm3 is big help for cineon film scans and custom LUTs.
Click to expand...

It doesn't matter what you shoot at. All that matters is how much light hits the sensor. The rest you can change in post exactly like changing it on set.

From your question I strongly recommend Reducation.
 
In my opinion.. If you strictly expose with monitor, you may open up iris more with Redlogfilm gamma since Redgamma3 looks brighter and more contrasty. Therefore, those two settings may give you different starting points in post.
 
The in-camera gamma settings do not in any way affect what is recorded in the R3D.

Graeme
 
Thank you all for you reply, Graeme here what I mean ": Despite recording linear data, RAW file formats still preserve the most information. Gamma encoding is primarily for preserving maximal tonal detail when constrained to a limited bit depth with standard files.
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Yes, for a gamma encoded image your images represent what is happening. However, because we always record RAW in the R3D, the gamma setting in camera is not relevant.

Graeme
 
Tarek salman said:
When they Said raw they where talking about Redlogfilm3 if am right. or when have color spacing on Redgamma3 still consider Raw .http://www.red.com/learn/red-101/redlogfilm-redgamma
Click to expand...

Tarek, I get the sense you think color space and gamma settings are "baked in" when you shoot on RED.

However, what RAW means is....is they are not. As I understand it, the sensor records all R, G and B channels "clean" and you chose, when you debayer, what color space and gamma to apply to your encoded output.

That is the power or RAW. Nothing is baked in. You decide, after you shoot, how you want your captured data to look (which is why "one-lights" and "grades" are often a valuable part of the workflow).

Hope this helps.
 
Tarek salman said:
When they Said raw they where talking about Redlogfilm3 if am right. or when have color spacing on Redgamma3 still consider Raw .http://www.red.com/learn/red-101/redlogfilm-redgamma
Click to expand...

"redlogfilm3"
there is no such thing.

there is redcolor3 that can be applied together with redlogfilm. I think that is what you mean.

But again most important, none of the above is relevant when shooting. At the shooting stage you can look at these two settings simular to adjusting the brightness of your video tap on a film camera... as such adjustment does not do anything to the actual film inside the camera that is being exposed.

Only difference is that when shooting red these "video tap" settings are tagged to the clips you shoot so later in the grading session your colorist can see how you viewed the RAW file when you shot it. But if he knows his job it should not mean much when he choose what to apply when he creates his grade. however most colorist prefere to grade from redcolor3 / redlogfilm or redcolor2 / redlogfilm since those settings are very close to how a raw negative would look / behave in a telecine. However when you shoot I would sugest you to set the camera settings to redcolor3/redgamma3.

redcolor3/redgamma3 gives you a pretty decent representation of whats in front of the camera and what is being captured. Kind of like a well dialed in video tap.

Also very important. Just as when shooting film, do not look to much at whats on your screen exposure vice and color vice. It's just giving you a hint of what the sensor actually capture. Much more important is the goal posts (on each side of the histogram) and the overexposure lights, right on the righthand side of the histogram, also if you have your camera set to 800 iso then the histogram itself is also very accurate and important to keep an eye at.

Technically I would say you should strive for an exposure that covers the whole histogram without having any of the two goal posts raised and preferably I would say the main part of your histogram should be above the middle / on the right hand side. Then you got a very low noise capture with an extreme range and as I see it you then used the full potential of your MX sensor. Thats what matters while shooting, what post process settings for "developing" raw has no relevance at that stage, more than being nice to the clients eye while shooting.
 
Cool, Now I have better picture what's going on, Thanks all for your reply's. Bjorn you right I was talking about redlogfilm...sorry lol and you did good job explain it...thx a lots and God Bless.
 
Dragon footage will be encoded appropriately in the R3D.

Graeme
 
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