Time Lapse documentation or tutorials?

[James T Mather]

Hi - I have searched and downloaded Epic operations manual but even with an hour searching the forum can't seem to get a simple workflow for the Epics time-lapse function - there doesn't seem to be any way to control exposure length from what I can see (ie: looong exposures) what am I missing? Also frame processing is something of a mystery. Any light shed would be appreciated.

ie: How does one set an exposure for 15 seconds duration which repeats every 30 seconds?

Thanks all.

 

[Joe Taylor]

Hey James. Red's current iintervalometer is ideal for daylight time-lapse sequences where shutter speeds of fractions from 1/15th sec and higher are concerned. You can make sub fraction exposures, 1 sec or so, but the Red's sensor really cannot handle longer exposures without cooking in lots of noise. DSLR's are the goto device for long exposures and have far less power needs than Red's for such sequences. However, Red Epic, Scarlett, event the trusty Red ONE, have exceptional time-lapse abilities in good daylight and are much more practical over DSLR's in such situations for many reasons.

 

[Trent Lillehaugen]

Hi - I have searched and downloaded Epic operations manual but even with an hour searching the forum can't seem to get a simple workflow for the Epics time-lapse function - there doesn't seem to be any way to control exposure length from what I can see (ie: looong exposures) what am I missing? Also frame processing is something of a mystery. Any light shed would be appreciated.

ie: How does one set an exposure for 15 seconds duration which repeats every 30 seconds?

Thanks all.

You can use frame summing to increase the exposure length beyond the normal 1 second limit. If you set the Frame Processing Mode to "Frame Summing" and Frames to Process to 16 you can achieve up to 16 second exposures (denoted as 1/16 fps). Of course you will probably want a shutter angle of 360 to simulate a continuous exposure. Note: while in preview (before you hit record) you will be seeing the pre-summed frames - that is, the exposure will not match your final exposure and the frames will be updating much faster. Once you start recording and wait for the first complete summed frame you will see the actual exposure on the monitors.

To setup a frame every 30 seconds set your Recording Mode to "Internal Timelapse Timer" and set the Interval to 30 seconds.

 

[Chad Lancaster]

Trent, any idea when frame processing will make it to the dragon firmware?

 

[David Battistella]

Um.

I don't really agree with it only being a daylight time-lapse machine.

If you blackshade at temperature and shutter you can get extraordinary results with EPIC or Scarlet.

You can extend the exposure range with the frame summing features. It does not work exactly as a DSLR, but one can get outstanding images from RED time-lapse anytime, day or night. Just blackshade your camera before you execute the shot.

Battistella

 

[Russ Fill]

David is right it can make some very pretty pictures of night clouds moon etc etc. You have to black shad and you should really experiment to see what your results are before you just set the numbers and push rec…
Good luck.

 

[James T Mather]

Thanks to everyone- sage advice on all counts. Made the frame averaging work. Very nice. Some weird fixed pattern noise in the picture (as in random dots of colour that stay in the same place in the frame.

Thanks again.

 

[Marcos Montenegro]

Timelapse is still the realm of the DSLR in my opinion. Until the Epic/Scarlet/Dragon can shoot stills with flexible parameters and exposures, this won't change. There is a selector in the SIDE HANDLE (S---M) that has been deemed obsolete. I long for the DSMC concept (emphasis on S) to be true one day, but in the meantime I drag my DSLR for any tiemlapse project.

 

[Todd T]

Thanks to everyone- sage advice on all counts. Made the frame averaging work. Very nice. Some weird fixed pattern noise in the picture (as in random dots of colour that stay in the same place in the frame.

You need to do a blackshade at your selected frame rate to get rid of that noise.

I shot this video at an effective 16 second exposure using frame summing.

Vimeo