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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Tilta Nucleus-M review

So I was able to upgrade the firmware on the motors fairly easily but my handset firmware is ver 6.3

I see some units have 8.2 or 8.3

How do I upgrade the handset firmware?
 
I have problem with the calibration. When i press auto-calibrate the motor start spinning but when reaching the end on the lens, the motor keeps spinning and at the same time de-attaches from the "lensring". Anyone know how to solve this?
 
Granit Neziri said:
I have problem with the calibration. When i press auto-calibrate the motor start spinning but when reaching the end on the lens, the motor keeps spinning and at the same time de-attaches from the "lensring". Anyone know how to solve this?
Click to expand...

Which lenses you're trying to calibrate? Is your NucleusM motor firmly attached to rod and gears.
When motor is spinning push it with your hand to have better contact between motor gear and lens.
 
Dragan Trifunovic said:
Which lenses you're trying to calibrate? Is your NucleusM motor firmly attached to rod and gears.
When motor is spinning push it with your hand to have better contact between motor gear and lens.
Click to expand...
I found a video on youtube of a guy who had the same problem. Apparently its because the voltage is to high and the torque on the motor is thus very strong. I solved the problem by pushing the motor a bit with my hand, but the best solution is to find a lower voltage p-tap connection. The motor is currently getting power from the p-tap connection on the Ronin 2 wich has 14.4V
 
For those without Facebook:

New firmware 18.03.19.2, release date is 18.04.23

New features:

1. Introducing the EZ mode. EZ Mode will help you link all of the devices to the same channel automatically.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YLIexGLuBc

2. Save lens calibration data when you switch batteries.

3. The whole system will function under one channel but will also maintain the original channel logic. (Separate channels)

4. It will enable a 4th motor option.

5. The Run/Stop glitched issue is fixed.

6. The Zoom speed will be saved when the Iris knob is set to "0".

7. The motor LOW TORQUE firmware is also included.

Here is the link for the new firmware.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1lhT9dWqN-0kl7iuepUNWGx0WsiRn4EAU

UPGRADE INSTRUCTION
1. Connect FIZ unit to your company via a USB cable, you will find a TILTA drive.
2. Drag FIZ, MOTOR1, MOTOR2, HANDLE1, HANDLE2 file into the TILTA drive.
3. Unplug the cable and recycle the power of FIZ unit.
4. For FIZ upgrade, go MENU-SYSTEM-UPDATE, it will show V18.04.23, press OK to finish the upgrade for the FIZ.
5. For handles, connect one handle with the FIZ by 7pin to 7pin motor cable. go MENU-SYSTEM-UPDATE on FIZ. It will show UPGRADE JOYSTICK, press OK to finish the upgrade for this handle. Repeat the steps for another handle.
6. For motors, connect one motor with the FIZ by 7pin to 7pin motor cable. go MENU-SYSTEM-UPDATE on FIZ. It will show UPGRADE T03M, press OK to finish the upgrade for this motor. Repeat the steps for the second motor until the FIZ shows NO FIRMWARE.
7. If you have a third motor, repeat step 1 and drag only the MOTOR1 file into the drive again, then repeat step 6.

UPGRADE TROUBLESHOOTING
1. If the computer doesn't read the FIZ, please try with another cable.
2. If you see the ERROR! during upgrading, please try another motor cable and also make sure the battery is charged.
3. Make sure the upgrade file matches the part. If you mistakenly upgrade the motor with handle file which shows UPGRADE JOYSTICK, please reload the motor file into the motor. Vice versa to the handle.
4. If you put more than 5 files in the drive in the same time, it might cause incorrect display.
5. This firmware should fix majority interference which caused by human error, if you still have interference issue, please contact service@tilta.com , we will do our best to fix for you.
Click to expand...
 
Granit Neziri said:
Everything works fine until i try to update the motors. It just says "update joystick". I tried to reload the motor files but it still says joystick.
Click to expand...

Did you power cycle the FIZ unit after upgrading its firmware?

Maybe try and load only the NM-MOTOR1 onto the FIZ and update the motor that way?
 
Granit Neziri said:
I found a video on youtube of a guy who had the same problem. Apparently its because the voltage is to high and the torque on the motor is thus very strong. I solved the problem by pushing the motor a bit with my hand, but the best solution is to find a lower voltage p-tap connection. The motor is currently getting power from the p-tap connection on the Ronin 2 wich has 14.4V
Click to expand...

Than you just need to update firmware which solve high torque calibration problem.
 
Does anyone know where I can find a rosette extender like I circled in the link www.imgur.com/a/g1rIx5p? It's the accessory that attaches to the top of the monitor and the Nucleus handle via rosette. Thank you!
 
Has anyone had issues with their motor vibrating while pulling focus slowly? My motor is nice and snug between the lens gear and a 15mm rod, and it seems to operate okay for like 75% of the rotation, but there are a few spots where it vibrates every time. Any suggestions?
 
Hello everyone!

Another happy owner of the Tilta Nucleus M here.

Was wondering if any of you have had a similar experience, I noticed that the motors run perfectly fine while powered by one of the handles and yet Tilta doesn't advise it.

Does anyone know why? Other than supposedly "not having enough power"? Because I'm getting more than enough for it to work perfectly and am left wondering if there are any other drawbacks.

Cheers everyone.
 
has anyone experienced the problem of the nucleus-m motor switching off when reaching the end off calibration (hard stop of the lens) ?
this only happens when connected to the dtap on the red clock I/o module dsmc2.
I do know that it has a mix output of 3amps, so I alway thought that the max power draw of the motors would be over 3amps when reaching the hard stops at auto calibration.
but title says the max power draw is only 2amps.
does anyone have a solution ?

of course, sometimes I can use the dtap on the battery directly to power it. no problems there.
but when its on a gimbal and I power the camera via dc in, the option that is there is the dtap on the v-lock I/o module..
 
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