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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Tilta Nucleus-M review

You can set presets: A to B, B to C, C to D, A to D etc. But I am not sure if you can save these indefinitely
 
Just received ours and can't wait to put it to work! However I can't really figure out what kind of cable is required to enable the REC-button. We're using it on a Scarlet-W with the V-lock expander so I guess it's to be triggered from the 4-pin lemo CTRL right? Can anyone enlighten me or guide me to a cable that'll solve my struggles of the day :)
 
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Just received ours and can't wait to put it to work! However I can't really figure out what kind of cable is required to enable the REC-button. We're using it on a Scarlet-W with the V-lock expander so I guess it's to be triggered from the 4-pin lemo CTRL right? Can anyone enlighten me or guide me to a cable that'll solve my struggles of the day :)

You need the RED start stop cable from Tilta.
 
Thanks. I thought so since I have the wooden grip from another cage where I remembered something about a RED start/stop cable. However I can't seem to find it anywhere online?.. I'll try'n send them an email. Thanks anyway!
 
got my unit.. anyone else have trouble with the hand grips.. the work but the motor starts freaking out and spinning fast in both directions

it sounds like either the handgrip knob needs to be calibrated or you're having channel interference. Daniel Stilling made post on thed FB Tilta page sugesting tht you run each of the handgrips and their matching motor on a different channel.
 
it sounds like either the handgrip knob needs to be calibrated or you're having channel interference. Daniel Stilling made post on thed FB Tilta page sugesting tht you run each of the handgrips and their matching motor on a different channel.
I have def tried to calibrate multiple times as well as all the channels
 
I have def tried to calibrate multiple times as well as all the channels

Did you re-calibrate the motors or did you calibrate the knob? Those are two different things. Go on the FB page and have a look and search through the threads. Post a video if you can also and most likely someone there will be able to diagnose the problem and help you figure out how to fix the problem.
 
I have a problem with the Tilta Nucleus M. I try to calibrate a motor manually (focus wheel on a zoom), but when i test it, there is big vibrations on the lens when the motor arrives at minimum or at maximum focus.

Do you have this problem too? And do you have a solution? Is it a bug or I missed something?
 
When you calibrate, you must set the minimum and maximum to like 1 degree off of close and far focus on a lens with hard stops. I would call it a bug in their calibration software and it could easily be updated.
 
Here's my rough review after a month or so on some odd jobs.

Probably no surprise to anyone but this is not a Preston. Every assistant I've made use it hates it. The big issue is lag. It's similar to but worse than the wcu4. It's pretty noticable on the handunit. It essentially requires you know what is happening and adjust focus before to account for the lag.

Similar to OPs I've had the motor freak out a few times as well. The motor just starts jerking back and forth. Maybe it's interference but it's pretty annoying since it can happen 30+ min after calibrating and can serious ruin a take and startle the actors.

It seems to only take ptap power. No luck at all with lemo.

Start stop works very inconsistently. Tested on Alexa mini, Alexa XT, weapon. Tried both of my start stop cables. With nothing changing it will just not work for periods of time.

I haven't really tested the grips yet so nothing to report there.

At this point Im just gonna be selling mine. I think with some firmware updates it could potentially end up being ok and maybe it's great for the grip system, but for me 'As Is' I wouldn't trust it for anything besides an iris motor (which granted is still a pretty good deal for an iris motor).
 
as always...you get what you pay for...for the price it has many features and for starting out it could still be a good option tho

So it went from being the most incredible deal ever (for so many folks here) to "you get what you pay for".

Interesting.
 
Clayton, don't enter your troll mode please!

I was just saying, after having used one on a job on our C-CAM and reading other comments, that AS ALWAYS you get what you pay for...that's all.

IE don't expect miracles here.

But as a starter kit or as a backup unit it can be ok.

I said the same about the DJI Focus...and the same can be said about the Redrock (at least the first couple of generations which I use from time to time).

Generally I'd say that probably there is no kit under 3/4k$€ really usable in production and reliable enough.

I personally use a couple of RTMotion kits and I think these are like being in another galaxy he he

BTW I even find the WCU-4 not that great!!! ;)
 
Clayton, don't enter your troll mode please!

I was just saying, after having used one on a job on our C-CAM and reading other comments, that AS ALWAYS you get what you pay for...that's all.

IE don't expect miracles here.

But as a starter kit or as a backup unit it can be ok.

I said the same about the DJI Focus...and the same can be said about the Redrock (at least the first couple of generations which I use from time to time).

Generally I'd say that probably there is no kit under 3/4k$€ really usable in production and reliable enough.

I personally use a couple of RTMotion kits and I think these are like being in another galaxy he he

BTW I even find the WCU-4 not that great!!! ;)

Sorry for that. :-)
Troll mode comes easily on this subject for me.
I have never seen such a mismanaged roll out on the part of Tilta.
They really blew it with the GB.

The real question is if they care enough about their customers to be attentive about firmware updates.
Otherwise, instead of a solid piece of kit, it will become a pile of junk.
(Like we have seen in the past with some other brands gimbals for instance).
The problem is that all of this is really up to Tilta and putting customer service (and after-service) first.
Call me cynical, but I am not reassured.

And that's a shame, because all the elements are still there to be a great product.

I do also appreciate Mike's review. At least its a realistic assessment from AC's working in the field.
 
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Said this way back when but Tilta and electronics just don't mix. They always seem to get 90% of the job done - a la the Gravity. Hopefully this is the product they finally support and refine and fix properly and that isn't just a smash and grab.
 
Anyone tried powering the motors via a 4s Lipo? My Vlock states its 14.8V which is the same as a 4S lipo. Would be great to power from a small lipo for gimbal work.
Any thoughts?
 
Yip, you get what you pay for...
Mine came with a faulty button on the left handle, after sendign a video to tilta showing the issue they want it sent back which is fair, but after sending them mails about the jerky motor problem them have gone quiet on me. Motors are very strong, changing the torque setting doesnt seem to make a difference on the calibration. you can calibrate the motors with the transmitter turned off so how would it know what torque setting is on? they really need to find a more inteligent way to manage the torque settings. Start stop is very inconsistent, its s safer bet to think the opposite of what the controller says is happening. Disappointment once again, but it does seem like most of the problems can be fixed with firmware.
 
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