The remote follow focus problem

[Thomas B.]

This thing has 2 outputs. 1x 5V usb on top and 1x 8V barrel jack on the bottom. If you have a Nucleus-M you already have the batteries for it. (2x 18650)

 

[Christoffer Glans]

Leaning towards going with V-Locks anyway. It seems there's no really good solution on this front and I'm beginning to think my army of BP batteries was just a mistake.

I'm looking at the Tilta battery plate but it still says that it's not approved by Red and I don't understand why? I understand it needs support in a firmware upgrade, but some seem to say that it will never be supported (???).

If I'm going with a plate and Anton Bauer batteries rated at 45wh and hooking up both a Feelworld LUT6S monitor and a focus motor (like a normal one, Arri WCU or something), how long will that last? For hand-held I'm guessing going with the 95wh is better, but want something that works with the RS2 and the 45wh batteries seem to fit the rig.

 

[Björn Benckert]

Leaning towards going with V-Locks anyway. It seems there's no really good solution on this front and I'm beginning to think my army of BP batteries was just a mistake.

I'm looking at the Tilta battery plate but it still says that it's not approved by Red and I don't understand why? I understand it needs support in a firmware upgrade, but some seem to say that it will never be supported (???).

If I'm going with a plate and Anton Bauer batteries rated at 45wh and hooking up both a Feelworld LUT6S monitor and a focus motor (like a normal one, Arri WCU or something), how long will that last? For hand-held I'm guessing going with the 95wh is better, but want something that works with the RS2 and the 45wh batteries seem to fit the rig.

The Tilta Vlock plate build to much to work nicely even with the smallest of Vlock batteries on the RS2. You get a rather long camera package that will mess with your tilt balance. If you then add even a normal weight lens and start to pull focus, then glas moves around and you strain the tilt motor even more... quite soon you will get the out of balance vibrations going.

I built this to get around the issue. It gets power trough a thin 2pin lemo and powers the Vaxis, camera and Dtap port without adding more than a cm to the length of the camera.

Carbon clay Avocado gak. by Björn Benckert, on Flickr

Then I can run with a Vlock on the handle or on the other end of the float stick as counter weight. A big Vlock battery then last for hours to power the whole rig.

Untitled by Björn Benckert, on Flickr

 

[Christoffer Glans]

The Tilta Vlock plate build to much to work nicely even with the smallest of Vlock batteries on the RS2. You get a rather long camera package that will mess with your tilt balance. If you then add even a normal weight lens and start to pull focus, then glas moves around and you strain the tilt motor even more... quite soon you will get the out of balance vibrations going.

I built this to get around the issue. It gets power trough a thin 2pin lemo and powers the Vaxis, camera and Dtap port without adding more than a cm to the length of the camera.

Then I can run with a Vlock on the handle or on the other end of the float stick as counter weight. A big Vlock battery then last for hours to power the whole rig.

Well, I will not build something like that so it doesn't really solve things for me. But isn't the Anton Bauer 45wh batteries so small that they'll work? And as for the focus on the RS2 I just took the DJI quick release plate with the 12mm rod and put it on top of my camera attached to the Komodo Link, so it never strains from anything other than the camera, reducing the risk of moving the camera around. I will also use it with the SmallRig plate instead, so the camera will be solid on that plate compared to the quick release version.

But I've yet to test it all with things like the RavenEye and stuff.