Welcome to our community

Be a part of something great, join today!

  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

The Gentleman's Underwater Bubble Blower Thread

(..)

I tried to do as much as I could to manually WB underwater and not do too much in post to show you guys what it can do as it was shot, out of camera.

(...)

Hi Sean,

Since WB underwater is something that I do quite often, I wonder exactly how other people do it in practice. Do you use a white or grey slate? Or do you just point at the reef?
 
Thanks very much Sean. Any chance you can post a screen shot of the histogram for the attached grab? Or an R3D grab?

Cheers
 

Attachments

  • Gemiini.jpg
    Gemiini.jpg
    13.5 KB · Views: 0
Hi Sean,

Since WB underwater is something that I do quite often, I wonder exactly how other people do it in practice. Do you use a white or grey slate? Or do you just point at the reef?

I used to use my white translucent fins as my white balance - it made for a quick and easy basic hyperfocal focus point for wide angle and a quick white balance as well. Won a pair of black fins that at a show that are nicer so thinking of painting the top of one white.
 
I have bad WB habits. I have a couple pairs of fins that have a white patch painted on them and I would use that sometimes. And sometimes not so much, as I would be going off the last WB I pulled, even if they were different depths/conditions. Sometimes you just gotta shoot right?! :) But always better to have a a WB calculated where you are at the moment of shooting.

But for most of the stuff I did on that Fiji edit I was blancing off the sand, a white piece of the reef or a bunch of times if I was near Julia Sumerling I would WB off the patch of perfect 18% grey painted on her fins.
 
Here you go Tom:

This WB was taken off the sand in front of me. I may have made a couple other slight changes in Resolve but like all of the rest of the edit, I didn't go far off of what was captured in camera.
https://www.flickr.com/gp/34353123@N06/1nQ80w
 
Thanks Sean, considering the depth and aperture/shutter, that is a very fat histogram, looking forward to seeing more footy as these cameras get out there in the wet.
 
Thanks!

That was a Canon 16-35mm ii f2.8
 
Thanks Sean
I was just wondering if anyone has had any kind of success with anything wider than 16mm when using the 8KFF of the Helium or the 6KFF of the Dragon. We have been so disappointed with the corner sharpness using the Canon 11-24mm that it is going up for sale.
 
Regarding in water WB, I found that my black fins are great for that. Sometimes the rocks/reef also worked well. That was using a filter and no lights. Still need to have some time in the computer to analise the results.
Although most of the time I carry a large 18% plastic "card", I ended up not using it as much as I should (it takes time to unclip it, putting in at the bottom, taking a WB reading and clip it back again in my BCD). I need to test with my fins and lights before I can start leaving the WB slate at home. It's surprisingly how good a WB reading can be right from a rock/reef.

In any case, and just for a better of backup, I always shoot a few seconds of my fins or another subject that I know it's white/grey/black to have a known and "correct no-color" target to use the WB tool in post.
 
That's an interesting comparison over the older dragon sensor but I would note that, according to the initial description from RED, Gemini is only one stop more sensitive than 8K helium sensor so you could have been shooting 8K at F11.

There are definitely some situations where an extra stop would help, and Gemini is certainly a step up from Scarlet-W and Dragon 6K, but overall I'm not sure it is worth it for those with Epic-Ws ($5K to upgrade to 8K/60FPS and a year more of warranty), or those buying new rather than upgrading.

Further, regarding underwater shooting. Usually at the depths where light loss is an issue, you really need lights to bring back the best color, so it isn't necessarily low light shooting anymore.

I have analysed in detail severa of the test shots from Helium and Gemini. From what I can see Gemini has 1.5 stop light sensitivity. But I am not so sure about the colors, from all the tests I have seen I see often a more pink cast.
We took Helium instead and I do not regret it at all, the resolution is very useful. Of course if you need the 96fps of Gemini in full frame and low light is extremely important then it is probably the right camera, but underwater I think the increased resolution would weighting more heavily.
/Andreas
 
Hello guys,

we are looking to rent 2 x Underwater housings for the RED DSCM2 for 10 Shooting days in Europe
July 23-25 3 Days
Aug. 12-18 7 Days

we also looking to rent 1 Scubacam for DSMC2 for 7 weeks
Please offers inbox.

Thanks

Stephan
 
A couple of weeks ago I was fortunate enough to spend some time swimming with Dwarf Minke Whales on the Ribbon Reefs of The Great Barrier Reef.
Soooo much fun. These 7 metre long whales get so curious over time that they will come within arms reach.
The only downside is that the whales come in over the worst weather of the year with 30 plus knot winds and very sloppy sea conditions BUT it is so worth it when you are eye to eye with these cute little guys.

This clip was shot on a Scarlet W, Gates housing and the sensational Sigma 14mm Cine lens.
Grading was done in Resolve 15.
Hope you enjoy.

 
Back
Top