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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Steadicam Group-buyers: Accessories

Be careful of the Lilliputs, guys. I bought a 9.7" 969a/o/p HDMI and it crops the image from my Scarlet without any way to adjust custom aspect ratios.

It has a usb power out for my Paralinx, and I put a Vmount bracket on it...I thought it was too good to be true...turns out it was.

Maybe I got a dud, or maybe the ones that you guys are looking at are improved, but I grew tired of explaining to clients "the image is actually more than you see here, it's cropped here and here..."
 
Hello my friends, Iam not going to state a manufacturer name so I dont get missunderstood again , like Iam advertizing, but for steadicam work you will need something that its at the 600-1200 Nits with a high contrast ratio. Most cheap HDMI -HD-SDI monitors are around the 350-400 Nits and you cant really work with them outdoors.
The cheap solution to your problem is a technology that is called TRANSFLECTIVE and its better vewable in daylight, so if you serach under this you will get to find some decent products.
regards
 
constantine Tirintzis said:
Hello my friends, Iam not going to state a manufacturer name so I dont get missunderstood again , like Iam advertizing, but for steadicam work you will need something that its at the 600-1200 Nits with a high contrast ratio. Most cheap HDMI -HD-SDI monitors are around the 350-400 Nits and you cant really work with them outdoors.
The cheap solution to your problem is a technology that is called TRANSFLECTIVE and its better vewable in daylight, so if you serach under this you will get to find some decent products.
regards
Click to expand...

Kostas, could you check the list, I think that one is already on there (the original comment). You can PM me if you want and I will add it to the list.

Cheers, and cheers for the recommendations regarding Steadicam rigs. Your input was important for my choice.
 
This looks like it could work:


  • 1024 x 600 High-Resolution Display
  • IPS Screen with 170° Viewing Angle
  • 1000:1 Contrast / 800 Nit Brightness
  • 3G-SDI Input and Loop-Through Output
  • Mini-HDMI Input and Output
  • Icon-Driven Operating System
  • 2-Bar Waveform / Stereo Headphone Out
  • DSLR Ratio Adjustment with 4 Presets
  • Numerous Focus / Exposure Features
  • Polycarbonate Screen Protection
.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/887124-REG/Marshall_Electronics_V_LCD70MD_3G_7_HDMI_Monitor.html

May need this too:
.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/903250-REG/Marshall_Electronics_V_PAC_XC_4_PIN_XLR_TO_LOCKING.html

Thoughts?
 
Brandon J.F. said:
This looks like it could work:


  • 1024 x 600 High-Resolution Display
  • IPS Screen with 170° Viewing Angle
  • 1000:1 Contrast / 800 Nit Brightness
  • 3G-SDI Input and Loop-Through Output
  • Mini-HDMI Input and Output
  • Icon-Driven Operating System
  • 2-Bar Waveform / Stereo Headphone Out
  • DSLR Ratio Adjustment with 4 Presets
  • Numerous Focus / Exposure Features
  • Polycarbonate Screen Protection
.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/887124-REG/Marshall_Electronics_V_LCD70MD_3G_7_HDMI_Monitor.html

May need this too:
.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/903250-REG/Marshall_Electronics_V_PAC_XC_4_PIN_XLR_TO_LOCKING.html

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

I would say not bright enough for many outdoor situations, but the exact brightness rating isn't shown as far as I could tell.
 
600 is minimum and in many cases you might have problems but it can be used.
800 Nits its most of the time ok. but it will still give you a little trouble over direct sunlight.
1200 is good, and of cource always go for high contrast ratio.
regards

edit: sometimes what is in the specs isnt real so.. always add a little to the initial specs..
 
Off topic.
Click to expand...

What do you mean here? OK, Got it.

I just though basing on topic title that you mean any group buy acessories useful for steadicam, not only specific ones you listed.

P.S. Also remove photos from quote :-)
 
This item isn't appropriate to the topic in this thread. Check the original comment.
Click to expand...

I thought that it is original to keep acessories in one place. We already have so much topics here..

Best if you want to generate interest about an item you start a public thread.
Click to expand...

This is how you wish. If you don't like it to be present here, I'll delete posts.

Private messages cut off people who don't know about the conversation.
Click to expand...

This one I do not understand. Manufacturer can't publically disclose price. And generally number of people required and such information is all info that is required.
 
constantine Tirintzis said:
600 is minimum and in many cases you might have problems but it can be used.
Click to expand...
wow, i didn't know that, was flying with el cheapo chinese p.o.s. , maybe 150 nits - no problems. It's nice to have translusent high brighness monitor for framing, but it's not minimum. Minimum is what you can afford :)
 
Paramon people ask for pro-feedback, I gave it, and its correct. Now if you tell me that you can see in direct sunlight with 150 Nits , then you are a very lucky man with very good bright eyes. even 600 nits is very hard to see in direct sunlight, and as you have read even the Marshal 800 nits is also a little problem .I like to personaly see what Iam framing as is and not moving shadows.

edit : 10 years ago while i was on a job my efp green screen was blown, and at those times I didnt have the money for back up gear, so I dint have a second monitor, but what I did have was one of those very small lcd tvs with a 3 inch little screen or even maybe smaller, 2,5 inch, so I taped it on the green screen and carry on working. I finished the job, but that doesntmean the lcd was good enough to see what I was doing.
In other words....you need a good viewing device. Dont compromise for 100$ monitors
because afterwords here is what happened. The small lcd was the directors mini device so he could see wireless, so not having this he was running along on my side trying to see what I was filming, and a little behind me, so when I suddenly stoped to do a freeze sudden stop he .......... crashed on my right back side , dropped his glasses, and stepped on them as well.
so bad viewing for me and even worst for him.
good hi was a friend hahahahahaha
 
Paramon Ivanovich said:
wow, i didn't know that, was flying with el cheapo chinese p.o.s. , maybe 150 nits - no problems. It's nice to have translusent high brighness monitor for framing, but it's not minimum. Minimum is what you can afford :)
Click to expand...

I respect your can-do attitude but as Kostas points out, not everyone will be physically capable of monitoring from a low-output monitor, or not capable of achieving the desired result, so we have to set the minimum higher. I appreciate the thought.
 
Anyone know a good place to get a power tap extension online? Possibly a P-Tap splitting hub?
 
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