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Can some more learned enlighten me as am also seeking why should i shoot in 16mm film.
Regards
Michael:
I just checked the credit section for the Casino Royale article in the 2006 december issue of American Cinematographer and it says
Super 35mm 2,35:1
nothing more.
Thanks Mike. I stand corrected.
With LOST over, who's still on 35? Any ideas?
Dear David,
I have a Nikon D5000 camera. It's sensor is 23.6 x 15.8 mm. It is similar size to a 35mm film camera, but larger than a Super 16 frame. So as I figure out there's no way I could use it to make test images for my intended S16 project? It wouldn't be a correct director's viewfinder... am I right? I thought maybe I could shoot some concept images, which I would Photoshop, color grade, give it some grain etc, you know just for my research process. Is there any way I could replicate the S16 characteristics with it?
Btw, I'm planning to buy a real Director's viewfinder for the shooting. I really like the Alan Gordon Mark Vb. Is it a good piece of equipment? Do professionals use it nowadays as much as earlier? I saw it many times with Michael Bay, but most of the times I see directors to have a more professional viewfinder which uses the actual camera lens. As I've never used a director's viewfinder before, could you tell me how exact information I will be able to get with this Mark Vb device? What I will see with it, is the same image my camera will shoot with the appropriete setups?
And one more question: can you name me a Super 16 movie, that has the cleanest image that is possible with this format, and/or gives the feeling of a 35mm negative. I would say it could be mistaken with a 35mm film.... Is it possible?
And David... one more really important question: with a Super 16 format, with today's technologies, and with one of the best DPs, is it possible to achieve the "look" and "picture quality" of Aliens (1986, James Cameron part... kinda grainy, bluish image, have you seen the blu ray? it's amazing), or Minority Report? or Blade Runner? Or a mix of these?
I appreciate your help,
Thank you very much,
Gabor
David, while we're on the subject of film--
Can you enlighten me about the logarithmic properties of film? Does it more closely mimic the way the human eye sees than a linear sensor?
Dear David,
I have a Nikon D5000 camera. It's sensor is 23.6 x 15.8 mm. It is similar size to a 35mm film camera, but larger than a Super 16 frame. So as I figure out there's no way I could use it to make test images for my intended S16 project? It wouldn't be a correct director's viewfinder... am I right? I thought maybe I could shoot some concept images, which I would Photoshop, color grade, give it some grain etc, you know just for my research process. Is there any way I could replicate the S16 characteristics with it?
Btw, I'm planning to buy a real Director's viewfinder for the shooting. I really like the Alan Gordon Mark Vb. Is it a good piece of equipment? Do professionals use it nowadays as much as earlier? I saw it many times with Michael Bay, but most of the times I see directors to have a more professional viewfinder which uses the actual camera lens. As I've never used a director's viewfinder before, could you tell me how exact information I will be able to get with this Mark Vb device? What I will see with it, is the same image my camera will shoot with the appropriete setups?
And one more question: can you name me a Super 16 movie, that has the cleanest image that is possible with this format, and/or gives the feeling of a 35mm negative. I would say it could be mistaken with a 35mm film.... Is it possible?
And David... one more really important question: with a Super 16 format, with today's technologies, and with one of the best DPs, is it possible to achieve the "look" and "picture quality" of Aliens (1986, James Cameron part... kinda grainy, bluish image, have you seen the blu ray? it's amazing), or Minority Report? or Blade Runner? Or a mix of these?
I appreciate your help,
Thank you very much,
Gabor
Of course you can say things like it, that film is dead... Probably its true in the amateur and low budget independent world, but not in the studio system.
Here's a list I found somewhere for the 2010 fall season:
Tron Legacy - Sony CineAlta F35
Rabbit Hole – Red One
The Narnia movie - Sony CineAlta F23
The Tourist – 35mm
Harry Potter – 35mm
Unstoppable – 35mm
Black Swan – 16mm
Burlesque – 35mm
Love and Other Drugs – 35mm
Due Date – 35mm
The Tempest – 35mm
The Fighter – 35mm
The Garden of Eden – 35mm
All Good Things – 35mm
I Love You Phillip Morris – 35mm
Faster – 35mm
The King’s Speech – 35mm
The Next Three Days – 35mm
Morning Glory – 35mm
Hereafter – 35mm
Skyline – Red One
127 Hours – a whole bunch of different HD cameras
Fair Game – Red One
Saw 3D – HD
So how you figure that film is dead? I would say film is pretty much alive, digital tries to get its foot with more or less success...
And if you look seriously at what type of movies use digital in mainstream filmmaking, it can be said for sure, that they are in almost any case a 3D production. And frankly, for 3D there is hardly easier way for acqusition than digital. But you know, Spielberg made, makes Tintin with digital 3D, however his next movie War Horse is still 35mm. Scorsese makes Hugo Cabret in digital 3D with Arri Alexa, but I'm really curious to see what his next project will be shot on.... I'm pretty sure it will be 35mm....
So I understand that it seems that digital overtook and film is dead, because as I already mentioned earlier, on the digital side, especially on the RED side, there is a very serious marketing campaign for this format. On the film side there is very few marketing... But on there side there is 100+ years of history which is in my humble opinion more than enough proof for the future than any digital format offers.
Here's another interesting information I found on the internet in an article reporting from the Kodak "The Renaissance of the Techniscope format" seminar:
"The suggestion was made that our kids are more likely to be able to watch silent films of the 1920s than films produced digitally today"
On the video, digital side there are more than 40 formats came and gone, and most of them ara totally obsolete now. Isn't it funny that when George Lucas made Attack of the Clones in 1080p it was the absolute hightech format in public opinion, the way digital cinema should work, and now its seems terrible outdated. And it was just 4-5 years ago.... And his original 1977 Star Wars from its 35mm anamorphic print can look better and better thanks to the advancements in digital technologies. With the proper restoration, even on the dvd, its pretty terrific.
As a filmmaker I would like to invest in a format that is future proof. And right now I only see this in film stock. As I'm in the planning stage of my feature I have to consider many things, and although digital, and RED offers so much, at so little cost, I try to find the proper ways to shoot on film. Probably for the tech geeks 4K or 5K is far more than what could be gained from an S16 stock, which is rated at 2K, but man... look at those 2Ks... (Actually it seems to me like a very misleading marketing tool like in case of consumer compact cameras where the megapixels just grow and grow.... and people, often professionals as we see it, fall for the marketing and buy the highest megapixel cameras.)
You know, for me: less is more.
A few years from now when 8K and 10K or even more, RED and other cameras come out, the now hyped 4K will be really really outdated and old... And you can't go back to get more information out of the frame... It is what it is. But you can go back to film.
Right now I'm trying to find a solution how my Super 16 footage can look the best. How could I make it look like it was shot on a grainy 35mm, and not on S16. And it seems that with current lenses, post productions, cameras it can be done...
WOW, those are some beautiful stills.Err... because you like the way it looks? Because the look is appropriate for the project?
One of the best recent uses of 16mm was for Jan Troell's "Everlasting Moments". Troell wanted the feeling of an earlier color process like Autochromes or Agfacolor. There are some nice frame grabs here:
http://www.dvdbeaver.com/film3/blu-ray_reviews51/everlasting_moments_blu-ray.htm
For example, there was a great article in an old American Cinematographer on getting "clear pictures" by Ken Richter (Oct. 1978 issue). This was a guy who went around the country showing 16mm nature and winter sports footage to audiences. He often got asked why his footage looked so good, particularly since most of it was shot in 16mm. He wrote this article to explain how, but the gist of it was that there was no single "trick" involved -- that sharp, clear, rich photography came down to the choice of camera, lenses, f-stop chosen, filters, exposure, film stock, processing, printing, color-correction, projection and projector lens, theater conditions, etc.
In other words, any single step had a minor effect on quality, but it was accumulative as you went through all the steps out to the end result.
A lot of it came down to contrast as well, since contrast affects our perception of sharpness, so he used contrasty lenses in stronger lighting contrast on higher contrast stock, etc. to compensate for the softness of 16mm.
Truth is that you may do any number of things right, but one step in the process done badly can reduce the quality of the final product. So to some extent, you have to be a quality-control freak.
On the other hand, to get back to the "big picture", a strong graphic image will survive any number of quality-reducing factors. Spielberg once wrote something similar, which I agree with -- if you create a particularly graphic image, like a dramatic silhouette, or someone in a dark room in a single shaft of light, then it tends to survive being mishandled in post or presentation -- it may even look cool if shot in Super-8.
Whereas an extremely subtle image, like a blooming pear blossom tree on an overcast day, all pastels and soft lighting... well, that may look great shot and projected in 70mm, but it may look too mushy if shot in Super-8 -- the "point" of the shot may be lost on the viewer.
There are real limits to using one type of technology to "test" a completely different type of technology. It would be like testing your ideas about cooking roast beef on a piece of fish. You can certainly create artistic looks that you plan on emulating, but "testing" implies getting to know how a particular piece of technology responds in different situations, and you can't do that by testing something else instead.
Until recently, you could have at least gotten the movie film loaded into 35mm cassettes, shot still tests, and had them processed at an ECN2 lab and printed and/or scanned, and then you could have cropped those tests to the 16mm size to judge grain and resolution somewhat. But the few labs that offered ECN2 processing for movie film loaded into still cassettes all went out of business. You can't really send the movie film to a regular C41 color negative still film lab because it's not quite the same process, so the contrast and color would be off, plus movie film has a carbon remjet backing for anti-static and anti-halation purposes that needs a step to remove.
I don't have an opinion on directors finders but most of them work just fine for lining up shots.
I can't think of a specific Super-16 movie that is particularly fine-grained at 35mm levels, though I've seen some movies in theaters shot in Super-16 that looked pretty good, "Hurt Locker" being one of them. Dramas like "Hustle and Flow" and "Leaving Las Vegas" all looked pretty strong technically in the theaters. "Black Swan" too, of course. These days, some of the best-looking Super-16 is probably seen on HD channels for shows using that format, especially some of the European shows.
I use a Canon 2ti as a directors viewfinder, you can walk the locations, adjust the zoom to approximate the field of view of your primes, you must "calibrate" for this. Then you actually shoot your storyboards, with stand-ins, if you can find 'em.I don't have an opinion on directors finders but most of them work just fine for lining up shots.
Dear David
If I was to shoot in 16mm or rather super16, is there a 4 k scan facility for them? If yes, will it be better in terms of its mid tones information if someone wants it to look somewhere near like 35mm film. Or will it be the same as 2k scan cause there is only 16mm size information available in the negative?
Is it better or equivalent or lesser or expensive in cost factor (leaving aside specific or creative look factors) to shoot in digital 35mm sensor camera or on a 16mm film camera, inclusive of work flow cost consideration? Though this is like orange and apple comparison but I feel the cost factor will come handy to knowledge seekers.
All this factors are essential for students,amateur,low budget producers and would be very glad if we could know.
Thanks
Regards