Cliff Hokanson
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YEA my clients want the alexa look for better skin tones/film look. I feel Jim is thinking about this!!!!!!!
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i mismatched 2... right in the green. could be my eyes, could be my old, uncalibrated laptop's rendition, or just sloppiness.
besides color perception/tolerance... there is another factor. as you mentioned, there is a range of skintones... and a range of light filtration. i know this is a huge no-no for some people, but i'm okay with letting the light affect the skin color. or the mood of the shot for that matter (within creative reasoning). [heck, look to the left at my 'avatar'... 5 year-old canon jpg (i'll grow up sometime) and a little intense... but that's besides the point. the light bends a certain way at sunset and fluctuates based on time (season) and space (geo)... and 'artistic intent'.] i understand, at least a little bit, the idea of 'memory colors' - but perhaps i have a little bit of artistic leeway in my philosophy. i'm still just learning all this stuff, though - you guys each have much more experience than i do, so i'm willing to listen and learn about this stuff and really appreciate this discussion. sorry to throw a tangent out there, but it is a factor... (and a balancing out of technical minutia)
so, what does 'accurate' skintone rendition look like, and is archetypical 'accuracy' via plato the ultimate form? how do you guys think about these things?
Well, we owe you a beer. That's for sure. Awesome test!
I will download the originals since I can't realy see 100% what is going on in the color. The look is very glamorous and awesome but personally I'd like to try pushing a more saturated look and see what's there.
Only further 2 questions would be: light source (5600K is stated but is it HMI?) and makeup used.
Oh - and how much do we need to bribe you to do another test just like this with tungsten lighting?
Thanks again!
Bruce Allen
www.boacinema.com
Shooting a reference chart and white balancing based on it may be less than optimal strategy, in cases such as:
- when shooting a scene with varying light throughout the shot (camera movement, uncontrolled light, mixed light etc.)
- when scene's actual captured color values are very far from perfectly white balanced color, and typical WB creates an undesired starting point by negatively affecting either texture, range or tonality
- when it creates a longer route to the desired look in any way
- when challenging and important shots lack the reference chart but are chosen as a reference for the look creation
- when aditional fiddling with additional variable on a fast moving shoot with 100+ shots starts presenting a distraction or limitation of any sort, being less helpful than a adequate colorist.
...etc...
How do you mean missmatched two? what was your score? If yours was 2 then I will keep mine a secret![]()
well, i'm just guessing the score is based on which ones were 'out of place' apparently there were just a couple right next to each other in the wrong arrangement (i guess). and don't worry, tests scores are lame anyways (hardly a medical-grade test anyways). don't be so sensitivestory of my life...
I though I was not to sloppy and that I had some fine gradients but I scored 53. Maybe I should take my hands off the color wheels from now on, LOL.
How do you mean missmatched two? what was your score? If yours was 2 then I will keep mine a secret![]()
regarding the 3dl luts posted herre before I forgot to say if you want them in resolve they need to be converted trough photoshop according to the following (found in another thread)
If you have Photoshop CS6:
Import Resolve's Trim_LUT0.DPX file into Photoshop
Add a LUT Layer
Choose the .3DL LUT
Flatten the image
Save changes to the file
Import to Resolve
Choose the option to Generate Lut from Current Grade.
edit: make sure to turn off your Photoshop color management settings so the file isn't converted on import.
It might lean to the green because there are two green pixels and one red and one blue in the bayer pattern.
the bayer pattern sensor captures more green pixels.
but as you said it's very easily corrected with white balance and temperature shifts.
FWIW I am finding that daylight comes in at around 5200 consistently over 5600 which is always a touch warm, but it could also be the time of year in this part of the world.
david
So the reason to never shoot a chart?
It's like saying, "don't record a tone for the audio for this scene because the actors are whispering and I don't want it to be loud."
what if you have an Alexa an EPIC and a 5D for a scene? Pick one and match the rest?
The DP can always do screengrabs for the colorist at wrap, but shooting a chart is a good practice.
Nothing to do with green pixel ratio. It's everything to do with the variability of light and that standard tools for measuring colour temperature are woefully inaccurate.
Graeme
There are six examples mentioned where this approach "may be less than optimal strategy".
No words like "never" or "don't" in that post.
Too many variables to provide a single, fool-proof answer.
- If shots from all three cameras have the same priority in the edited sequence, it may be advisable to pick the least manipulable material from 5D, go as far as one can with the look, and adapt other two camera looks based on it. (if one wants to avoid 5D material falling apart and unnecessary complications to fix it)
- If Alexa's color rendition is the priority, it would be advisable to adjust the look for 5D in camera (not in post), closest to desired look as possible (before it gets burned in the 8 bit h.264) and just do the necessary fine tuning in post.
- If it is a very challenging scene regarding light variations or light deficiency, WB route + later look creation/application with 5D will feel like trying to paint a canvas made of butterfly's wings.
- If recording Prores on Alexa and final desired look is drastic and less "accurate", it may be advisable avoiding the typical WB step for Alexa. This particular statement is also pretty simplified, with both pros and cons, depending on more detailed circumstances.
- If the DoP crafts the main "look" on set, filling the range and painting the tone precisely as he wants it (many do), or just gets very close to the desired look, post work requires just some secondaries and fine tuning and typical WB route and charts may be completely redundant.
- Charts + WB route may also be the best route in other scenarios.
It also depends on whether the chart is being used with a purpose of WB or just for comparing the color differences and offsets between cameras or between different shots of the same camera, and treating the material accordingly, without the typical WB step. (notice the repeating term "typical", not generally dismissive)
If cameras responded exactly the same way throughout all shooting conditions (with just different chromaticity between different cameras but no offsets throughout all shooting conditions), did that in same range, with same precision, and same digital equivalent of "density" & and insameamount of data, the answer for this example would be more straightforward. Suggesting simply: "It's advisable and foolproof always depending on : Shooting charts > Doing the WB > Applying the camera matching LUT > Crafting the look for one camera > Applying the crafted look on all shots > Done. "
Since chromaticity, DR and recording format are not the only variables, with additional inter-dependent variables such as: consistency/"thickness"/precision/flexibility/gamut range/type and amount of recorded data, etc...and since camera choices, shooting conditions, workflows and subjective routes introduce a large amount of variables, which are in many cases over-generalized or over-simplified, the answer is not that straightforward, color chart or grayscale chart will not be always necessary or even helpful, and generic LUTs and plugins will not provide optimal or sufficient solutions in all cases.
Of course, that does not negate usefulness of these approaches in many appropriate scenarios.
Of course.
In addition (not negation), screen grabs introduce additional CMS variables in the pipeline.
Which may not be necessary. In a bunch of cases. Some of which being mentioned.
Nothing to do with green pixel ratio. It's everything to do with the variability of light and that standard tools for measuring colour temperature are woefully inaccurate.
Graeme
do you have any general recommendations for getting proper color temperature (on set and/or in post) that we might not be thinking about? i tend to go by eye (and scopes).