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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Shutter Speed Control

Harry Clark

Harry Clark

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Hey guys,
I know that the general gist of my question has been discussed ad nauseum, so I'm mostly looking for an answer from the Red Team, or comments from other users regarding my theory and procedure...
I'm shooting a job under stadium lighting, supplemented by HMI's. I need to do some off-speed stuff. I will have an opportunity to test on the scout day.
I normally leave my cameras in "RELATIVE" shutter mode. From a film guy's perspective, this is more "normal" than "ABSOLUTE". You increase frame rate, and the effective shutter speed shortens correspondingly. The angle stays absolute (confusing considering Red's choice of nomenclature)
We went round and round in earlier posts regarding shooting 23.98 time based footage and the need to either make your shutter "NORMAL" or "ABSOLUTE" and adjust accordingly, OR make your off-speed frame rate an upward increment (40.002 fps instead of 40 or whatever)
http://reduser.net/forum/showthread...Time-Base-not-at-24-Time-Base-Rolling-shutter
That was Red One MX, not Epic, so I'm going to revive this and detail what I think will be a good starting point.
I think what I need to do is switch from my normal shutter speed viewing (from ANGLE to TIME) for convenience and brain assistance. I need to switch the mode (from RELATIVE to ABSOLUTE). When I go to 60 fps (which is really 59.94) or 120 fps (which is really 119.98) I need to manually dial in 1/120 or 1/240 respectively. If I don't change the shutter angle, I'll end up with a longer exposure time than I would ordinarily expect/ want. If I leave it in RELATIVE I will surely get flicker.
Again, I will have the opportunity to test on location under the lights, adjust, experiment. I'm just hoping for feedback regarding my expectations and procedure.
Cheers,
Harry
 
if you want to leave it in "Angle View" when you go into the advanced menu for shutter (either push and hold your shutter angle, push up on the d-pad when the red selection bar is on your shutter, or a double tap on your shutter) will allow you to enter in the time desired. Either fractional nomenclature or millisecond. Allowing you fine control over time and angle due to 3 different representations of you shutter. A spot for fractional, spot for angle, and spot for millisecond.
 
Harry Clark said:
Hey guys,
I know that the general gist of my question has been discussed ad nauseum, so I'm mostly looking for an answer from the Red Team, or comments from other users regarding my theory and procedure...
I'm shooting a job under stadium lighting, supplemented by HMI's. I need to do some off-speed stuff. I will have an opportunity to test on the scout day.
I normally leave my cameras in "RELATIVE" shutter mode. From a film guy's perspective, this is more "normal" than "ABSOLUTE". You increase frame rate, and the effective shutter speed shortens correspondingly. The angle stays absolute (confusing considering Red's choice of nomenclature)
We went round and round in earlier posts regarding shooting 23.98 time based footage and the need to either make your shutter "NORMAL" or "ABSOLUTE" and adjust accordingly, OR make your off-speed frame rate an upward increment (40.002 fps instead of 40 or whatever)
http://reduser.net/forum/showthread...Time-Base-not-at-24-Time-Base-Rolling-shutter
That was Red One MX, not Epic, so I'm going to revive this and detail what I think will be a good starting point.
I think what I need to do is switch from my normal shutter speed viewing (from ANGLE to TIME) for convenience and brain assistance. I need to switch the mode (from RELATIVE to ABSOLUTE). When I go to 60 fps (which is really 59.94) or 120 fps (which is really 119.98) I need to manually dial in 1/120 or 1/240 respectively. If I don't change the shutter angle, I'll end up with a longer exposure time than I would ordinarily expect/ want. If I leave it in RELATIVE I will surely get flicker.
Again, I will have the opportunity to test on location under the lights, adjust, experiment. I'm just hoping for feedback regarding my expectations and procedure.
Cheers,
Harry
Click to expand...

Yes, You should swap to degrees and start to think film / spinning mirror instead of still photo shutter times. So 180 deg shutter = half a frame of exposure. If you double the frame rate and want the same exposure you need to go to 360 deg shutter. (wich I do not like) so then you need to open up one step and stay on 180.
I think Cmos cameras does not do motion blur to well so to me they look better at 90 deg shutter, that gives you enough motion blur but still you do no see the the un natural smear for non additive fading motion blur that a film camera does so well. There are some flicker / active filters that can be used to create some better blurs but I think they are rather expansive.

For you lamps you will have less chance to run into flicker problems the longer shutter times you have so if there is no fast moving objects in your scene you could crank it up to 360 and get as flicker free as possible for the given frame rate.
 
Hey Bjorn,
Agree totally about the 360 degree smear. It SCREAMS "electronic" I also like a little "skinny"... 90 degrees looks OK to me too.
I may find that I need to lengthen the shutter time to accomplish this task, sadly. But I will discover at the scout when we test!
Cheers,
Harry
 
Just to report back. I put it in ABSOLUTE and dialed in 1/60, 1/120, and 1/240 as needed. Worked like a charm.
Cheers,
Harry
 
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