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Shooting 300 fps, lighting and shutter questions

Chris Adams

Chris Adams

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I'm shooting a music video Tuesday, there are a few night sequences of people breaking stuff, which of course we will shoot at 300fps.

In terms of the amount of light needed at 300fps 1/600th shutter, and flicker, what lights will I get the most use out of?
I know kinos will flicker, and I read something about needing a 2k or up for tungsten light, is that true?
What about hmi's with flicker free balasts?

Also, can anyone tell me how much light I'll be losing if I do a 90 degree shutter angle vs 180? I'm sure there is a very simple math equation for that...I just don't know it.

Thanks for all the help guys!
 
I'm not sure about HMI's. Pretty sure they'll flicker though. From my experience you'll need 5k tungsten (or higher sources).

At 800 ASA, 300 fps, 90º shutter, and a comfortable stop of 5.6, you're looking at about 1200 fc. That's a fully flooded 5k fresnel at about 8' away.
 
take a new hmi from K5600 like the new jokerbug1600 or alpha 1600. They are small, very powerfull, and flicker free. I shoot several time at 300 without any problem. Of course, it is true also with Alpha 4 but it is much more heavy and big.



olivier
 
Chris Adams said:
I'm shooting a music video Tuesday, there are a few night sequences of people breaking stuff, which of course we will shoot at 300fps.

In terms of the amount of light needed at 300fps 1/600th shutter, and flicker, what lights will I get the most use out of?
I know kinos will flicker, and I read something about needing a 2k or up for tungsten light, is that true?
What about hmi's with flicker free balasts?

Also, can anyone tell me how much light I'll be losing if I do a 90 degree shutter angle vs 180? I'm sure there is a very simple math equation for that...I just don't know it.

Thanks for all the help guys!
Click to expand...


The new generations don't flicker, however keep in mind that while shooting high speed you'l need more light then it will show you on your Light Meter, fact is I have stopped using them ever since I got the R1, and only use the histogram as my most reliable base, never the screen either, as depending on how high or low the brightness is set on your screen that will jeopardize your exposure.
 
If you go tungsten, yes, you need above 5kW, anything lower and the 60hz of the current actually shows up in the pulsing of the tungsten filament. when you use a bigger lamp, the filament doesn't cool off as much between the pulses of electricity.

Arri Flicker free ballasts should work. I have not used the Joker's with high speed yet, so i cant comment, but if others have had sucess, i see no reason to doubt them.
 
Ok well all we could get was a 1200 and 575 hmi. The 575 doesn't have a flicker free balast so we did tests and we see some flicker, but we are hoping we won't have to use that. We got superspeeds and a 12mm zeiss, and I think that is our slowest lens at 2.1 so we should be good on light. Again thanks for you help guys, wish we had the budget for 5ks or 1600s.
 
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