Häakon
Well-known member
Many would disagree with you; that's why you see Pro35s used on even the highest end of 2/3" cameras like the F950.You don't need adapters, 2/3 is enough DOF.
I think people need to be realistic about what Scarlet is. There is no question that people will use the camera to make narrative films. That being said, I do think that there are some who are wishing it to be more than what it is. It's a 2/3", 3K camera that will sell for under $3,000. That in itself is a bargain. If 35mm DOF is important to you, you're going to have to use an adapter or suck it up and invest in a camera that does what you want it to natively. The RED ONE is also an insane bargain at $17,500. The list of feature requests for Scarlet I have been seeing lately - even now that we know what RED is planning - have been a little absurd. This is a camera that is going to compete in the HVX class of equipment, and it should be respected as such. At half the price of some of those cameras - with a larger sensor and much greater resolution to boot - you'd think people would be singing praises! Just accept what the specs are (a fixed zoom lens) and decide if they are what your particular project calls for. You have other options (from RED themselves or other manufacturers) if you require something other than what Scarlet can give you.No any LENS adapter for SCARLET, please!!!.
The 35mm frame Jim referenced was a still camera 35mm full frame; that is, the width of the film negative is 35mm as seen here:Jannard I'm getting a bit confused by all the difference references on here.
I'm not sure what the difference is between 35mm equivalent and S35mm equivalent.
Note that the film is run through the camera horizontally with the perforations on the top and the bottom of the active frame. This makes each individual still frame 24mm x 36mm.
Motion picture film, on the other hand, is run through the camera vertically (in most cases), causing the perforations to lie on the sides of the active frame rather than the top and bottom. The dimensions of the physical film negative are the same (35mm from edge to edge), but the individual still frame is much smaller because the active area has been reduced to the width between the perforations (roughly 15mm x 23mm).
2/3" sensors (like the ones used in Scarlet, Panasonic's Varicam, or Sony's F950) have an even smaller active image area than that, while 1/3" sensors (like those found in Panasonic's AG-HVX200 or Sony's HVR-Z1U) are simply tiny by comparison.
Because the coverage area of the different sensor sizes is different, the focal lengths of the lenses must be "converted" in order to cover the same viewing area. This conversion is often referred to as a sensor's "crop factor." Wikipedia has a good article about this here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crop_factor
The crop factor for RED ONE's sensor is about 1.6x, meaning that a 50mm lens on the RED ONE will provide roughly the same field of view as an 80mm lens would on a 35mm full-frame still camera. (50 x 1.6 = 80). If David Mullen's understanding of Jim's post is correct, that would give Scarlet a crop factor of about 3.9x - meaning that in order to get that same 80mm full-frame FOV on Scarlet, you'd need a 20mm lens (80 / 3.9 = 20).
Since Jim has announced that the Scarlet zoom will begin at 28mm (full frame equivalent), we can deduce (by using the 3.9x crop factor) that the Scarlet lens will start at about 7.2mm (28 / 3.9 = 7.2) and go to roughly 57.6mm on the telephoto end (since we know it's an 8x zoom, and 7.2 x 8 = 57.6). Because most people do not think of lenses in terms of their 2/3" FOV equivalents, however, (a 7.2mm lens probably sounds really, really wide!), you can use the crop factor to find out what the focal length equivalent would be on cameras with a larger sensor. In other words, 7.2mm on the Scarlet will give you about the same FOV as an 18mm lens on the RED ONE or a 28mm lens on a full-frame camera. This way, if you are used to associating a certain focal length with a certain frame size, you can quickly do the math and determine the proper range that this lens will give you. Jim already "ran the equation" for those used to shooting full-frame 35mm stills in his first post, stating that the wide end will give you roughly the same FOV as a 28mm lens on a full-frame camera.
Hope that helps... I know it's a little wordy, but the Wikipedia articles should help or someone else can help restate things if they aren't clear.