SCARLET on a RONIN DJI RS-2 GIMBAL/STABILIZER

[George D.]

Hello everybody,

As you can guess, I just bought the new RONIN DJI RS-2 Gimbal to use with our Scarlet MX Camera.

The gimbal is a beauty. Very well constructed, and very professional.

In trying to mount the Scarlet I have already run into a few problems:

1 - The camera side handle presents a left/right adjusting problem, but it may be fixable.

2 - The gimbals bottom/camera mounting plate cannot be screwed into the 1/4" hole, because it puts the camera too far back on the gimbal arm, so the rear/top of the camera "hits" the gimbal when it goes to point "up". So, I am awaiting a 3/8" - 1/4" thread adapter to screw into one of the cameras 3/8" bottom holes. Hopefully, this will put the camera far forward enough so it will not hit the gimbal when tilting up, if, of course, this does not throw the balance wacky.

3 - After using the thread adapter, if all goes well, and the camera balances good, then my only remaining concern is the "long" Red Monitor Cable that attaches to the front of the camera. The monitor itself, will be mounted on the "double handle" bracket attached to the gimbal. BUT, will this cord induce a problem by creating a pulling/pushing resistance, while the gimbal is trying to steady the camera?

HAVE ANY OF YOU BOUGHT AND USED "THIS RONIN GIMBAL" WITH YOUR SCARLET ? HOW DID YOU OVERCOME THESE PROBLEMS ?

Any help or advise is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

George
.

 

[Eric Santiago]

Not with anything new but when we used my Scarlet MX with a Helix Jr. I had to remove the SH to balance it out evenly.
Good luck with yours.

 

[PatrickWebb]

G'day,
I would be interested to try this out. I haven't thought to do this before with the Ronin-S. I just use my Pocket 4K for gimbal work. If I move the Scarlet, I put it on a slider, dolly or crane.
I will try my Scarlet-X out on a Ronin-S and get back to you.

Initial plan would be that I will put a small lens on it, like the Voigtländer 20mm (pancake) which I have, and run a longer power cable to the V-mount (belt mounted) - that would be my logical move. As for focus, it might get too heavy. If I do gimbal work with a RED, other than the Komodo, I would get a MOVI or Ronin MX, where you have more real estate to sit the cam, focus gears, etc on. However, if you are in a pinch, then the Ronin-S could do a good job.

Anyway, good challenge. :cheers2:

 

[Alex Lubensky]

I've made it work on a stock RS2 without any add-ons with 16-35 Canon lens. Totally stripped down the cam, removed everything except the bottom plate. Powered via D-Tap to Lemo cord. Monitored through Raven Eye.

It works, but for a normal gig I would just use a Movi Pro. Much more comfortable to hold and work with. BUT, I would always prefer RS2 over a R1 or MX.

 

[Eric Santiago]

I've had the pleasure of working with my Scarlet on the Helix Jr, Ronin (original) and M.
Yep you really need to strip that sucker right down.
Had to remove the SH as well.
Worked and did great except we drained the batteries so many times it got really annoying.

 

[Rui Guerra]

I've made it work on a stock RS2 without any add-ons with 16-35 Canon lens. Totally stripped down the cam, removed everything except the bottom plate. Powered via D-Tap to Lemo cord. Monitored through Raven Eye.

I'm trying to make a Weapon 6K to balance in a RS2 but the V-mount battery (Paglink) will hit the back motor. I was thinking about removing the battery (to a belt clip?) but then I'm afraid the power cable could be a problem also by unbalancing the setup. Also, the Lemo power connector to the camera (and its cable) will not clear the back Ronin motor. Maybe a 90 degree Lemo connector?

So where can I find a V-mount belt clip with a 90 degree Lemo 2B 6-pin power connector?

Or should I go the route of using the replacement base plate from Tilta that has a V-mount plate. But it has only P-Tap or 2-pin Lemo output. With cable/connectors should I use?

Thanks!

 

[Alex Lubensky]

I'm trying to make a Weapon 6K to balance in a RS2 but the V-mount battery (Paglink) will hit the back motor. I was thinking about removing the battery (to a belt clip?) but then I'm afraid the power cable could be a problem also by unbalancing the setup. Also, the Lemo power connector to the camera (and its cable) will not clear the back Ronin motor. Maybe a 90 degree Lemo connector?

So where can I find a V-mount belt clip with a 90 degree Lemo 2B 6-pin power connector?

Or should I go the route of using the replacement base plate from Tilta that has a V-mount plate. But it has only P-Tap or 2-pin Lemo output. With cable/connectors should I use?

Thanks!

Hey, I've bougt one myself recently to use with my b-cam on a project (Scarlet or Epic MX).

I have managed to balance a gimbal with:

- Red Epic MX with Wooden Camera baseplate
- Sigma 18-35 ART EF (Canon)
- two Tilta Nucleus M motors
- Raven Eye
- Lens Support on a 15mm aluminium rods

How I did it:

1. Bought the Tilta Extended Base Plate for a better camera mounting solution
2. Bought the Left and Right side Nato to Arri rosette adapters to use my Tilta Nucleus M Handgrips
3. Powered the camera via Lemo to D-Tap cable > running to a D-Tap splitter (dual lock to the side of the camera) - the original Wooden Camera cable is too stiff and works bad, otherwise I had to power the motors also.
4. Run a D-Tap Splitter to a V-Lock connected to a SmallRig V-Lock plate on a magic arm

The setup weight is around 4600 gramm (I know it can be less > use one motor, or use a tilta nano motor, or use carbon fiber rods), but I even managed to balance this one with a redmote attached to the back of the camera. (+200 gramm, or total of 4800+ gramm)

The best possible setup in my opinion is to buy the Advanced Ring with a battery plate. The way I have managed to build this one is not the perfect one, it's too high on the handles (thus it's really hard to make low angles), BUT - it's cheap. Literally +50$ to an RS2 cost. If you have the Nucleus M Handles and motors - it's an easy way to get up and running.

But, I have to admit - I will def. go for the advanced ring to get to an operating style close to Movi etc. It's also an easier way to work for a solo operator - on the left handle you have the focus/zoom control wheels, and on the right side you have the joystick to control the gimbal - and I'd say this one is crucial for comfort of operation.

Also, I have to say the RS2 has a limitation when used with heavy cams - it has a weak roll motor and portrait mode - or 360 roll, or anything when the gimbal is in horizontal position is a pain for this gimbal. It will start to shake from side to side, thus this kind of operation is impossible when used with anything heavier than 2 kg


There are 4 possible solutions to the V-Mount placement problem:

1. Buy the Tilta Battery Pass-Through Plate. Possible problem - the battery adds weight to the setup and will limit you on lenses etc.
2. Buy the Basic Ring and a Battery plate for it. Possible problem - not comfortable to control the motors for focus and zoom, also the gimbal can be controlled only from the bottom of RS2.
3. Buy the Advanced Ring Grip and a v-mount plate for it. Possible problem - bad manufacturing of components from Tilta and you'll have to send it back after day 1 of using it. There were some problems with tolerances. But for me - it's the only and the best way to use the RS2 with heavier setups.
4. Use a V-Mount cold shoe from Small Rig on the native arm extension instead of the second handle. In a horizontal position it fits snugly under the gimbal arm and works flawlessly if you have a soft power cable. But having only one grip is a pain with this setup weight in my opinion.

Also there are Dual Handles from Tilta, the basic setup is a dumb grip. Same problems as on any other setup, but you can still buy better smart grips to control the gimbal or the focus/zoom motors separately, also there's a battery plate for the handles. But, you're loosing the top handle position this way and coming with a price close to a basic ring, or almost a full price of the advanced ring if buying the smart handles separately. Thus it's not the best solution in my opinion from the start.

 

[Rui Guerra]

Hi Alex,

Thanks for your very complete answer. It helps a lot!

How I did it:

...
3. Powered the camera via Lemo to D-Tap cable > running to a D-Tap splitter (dual lock to the side of the camera) - the original Wooden Camera cable is too stiff and works bad, otherwise I had to power the motors also.
4. Run a D-Tap Splitter to a V-Lock connected to a SmallRig V-Lock plate on a magic arm

Do you have a picture of your setup (or links to the parts you used)?

The best possible setup in my opinion is to buy the Advanced Ring with a battery plate.

But I believe that then you cannot shoot from a very low POV, near the floor. Since I intend to do a lot of that kind of low angle shoots for a project, the Ring is not a viable option for that reason.

Also, I have to say the RS2 has a limitation when used with heavy cams - it has a weak roll motor and portrait mode - or 360 roll, or anything when the gimbal is in horizontal position is a pain for this gimbal. It will start to shake from side to side, thus this kind of operation is impossible when used with anything heavier than 2 kg

Can you do a continuous camera movement from the upright position to underslung mode without issues?

 

[Alex Lubensky]

Hi Alex,

Thanks for your very complete answer. It helps a lot!



Do you have a picture of your setup (or links to the parts you used)?



But I believe that then you cannot shoot from a very low POV, near the floor. Since I intend to do a lot of that kind of low angle shoots for a project, the Ring is not a viable option for that reason.



Can you do a continuous camera movement from the upright position to underslung mode without issues?

Links are clickable text.
D-Tap splitter is a basic one from aliexpress.
I will post some photos the next time I will build the setup (right now it's a heavy cine zoom setup and I don't really want to mess with it just to take pics).

Underslung mode, as I have mentioned earlier - won't really work on heavy setups on this gimbal, it will shake a lot often. What DJI recommends is to turn the whole gimbal upside-down totally for low angles with heavy setups. To me - it's a not really working solution as a solo operating thing.

Overall it's really uncomfortable to go from the upright to the underslung using such a heavy setup, it puts too much stress on the gimbal (sometimes the fixing screws can even slide over in underslung position). Also it's a real pain for your body to use it this way - just too heavy to hold anything as a stick.

Maybe the powered Tilta hadles are ok to use upside-down, but if you want to go underslung - I think the Tilta power pass-through baseplate is the way to go. But depending on the batteries you have - it might still not fit into the gimbal to go underslung, or obstruct the movement in some other way.

 

[Rui Guerra]

Underslung mode, as I have mentioned earlier - won't really work on heavy setups on this gimbal, it will shake a lot often. What DJI recommends is to turn the whole gimbal upside-down totally for low angles with heavy setups.

That is interesting and something to be aware off. Is that DJI recommendation in some manual/video tutorial or it was sent to you?
I don't remember reading that anywhere.

Anyway I'm trying to stay under the 4,5 Kg max payload that DJI advices for this gimbal.

 

[Alex Lubensky]

Oh, sorry, those were the tutorials for the Zhiyun Crane 3s (which is capable of 7k setups). But basically it's a same problem on RS2

In this video you can also see the reviewer uses a total upside-down position for a lower angle setup:

 

[Rui Guerra]

Thanks for the videos, Alex.

I also found this about vibrations: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCqIyIoGd5A

 

[Alex Lubensky]

Thanks for the videos, Alex.b

I also found this about vibrations: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCqIyIoGd5A

You might also check this one for a setup you are looking:

 

[Alex Lubensky]

Okay, here's my setup. It's not perfect, but it does the job until the advanced ring arrives.

 

[Alex Lubensky]

The main problem of the RS2 I've found is the locking mechanism of the tilt barrell (the one that locks the lower/higher center of gravity of the camera) isn't secure as needed with heavier cams. It does some damage to the plate it's on and it gets harder to move the bottom plate alongside this one. It can slip sometimes, thus the best possible place for a heavy setup is as low on tilt as possible. But it puts a lot of stress on the tilt motor.

Overall it's the heaviest setup I've managed to balance (4600-4800 gramm), with motors ending up with 94 stiffness on tilt axis, around 70 on pan, and 55~ish on roll. Still trying to figure out a better balance on the tilt axis with nucleus motors, but my guess is I'm going to leave the zoom without a motor, and use the DJI focus motor on the focus with a native handle as the ring arrives.

As of now - it does the job and does it pretty good, curious to try this one with a cine fix like Arri Ultra Prime with some light mattebox another day.

I've also tried to put a TV-Logic 058W in front on a longer magic arm, also a possible solution running on a thin SDI cable.

Will try next with a native 5-inch Red Pro Touch and DJI motor

 

[Rui Guerra]

Hi Alex,

Thank you very much for the pictures, very helpful indeed!

Yes it looks like you can save some weight on zoom motor and changing to the original DJI focus motor. But it's a quite compact and short motor, not sure if it will reaches the lens gear. I've try to put the original DJI rod mounted at the baseplate but the motor do not reach the lens gear. I had to mount the rod support at an angle, not a very sturdy option thought. I need to find a better solution for this also.

 

[Alex Lubensky]

Yeah, I've already tried the same way. It was totally OK in my case - as sturdy as the Nucleus M motor, while it might not seem so.

My main pain right now it the center of gravity of the whole setup. It's comfortable to work with only in a vertical position, and all the handles are way lower than the camera, ending up in a really high setup. To achieve low angles with this setup you have to do it with your back, which is obviously not the best solution.

I've even thought on buying the Tilta Power Supply Handles, because they are positioned wider and pointing upright. But all in all it's the same solution as a ring, while the ring is way better in all ways I need to.

 

[Dipanka Sarma]

I'm trying to make a Weapon 6K to balance in a RS2 but the V-mount battery (Paglink) will hit the back motor. I was thinking about removing the battery (to a belt clip?) but then I'm afraid the power cable could be a problem also by unbalancing the setup. Also, the Lemo power connector to the camera (and its cable) will not clear the back Ronin motor. Maybe a 90 degree Lemo connector?

So where can I find a V-mount belt clip with a 90 degree Lemo 2B 6-pin power connector?

Or should I go the route of using the replacement base plate from Tilta that has a V-mount plate. But it has only P-Tap or 2-pin Lemo output. With cable/connectors should I use?

Thanks!

This is the cable and belt clip that technically "worked" for me but the cable is too short (24 inches) and restricts gimbal movement, totally defeating the purpose of the gimbal. If you can find a longer cable it could work.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1303059-REG/indipro_tools_ptrdes_d_tap_power_cable_for.html

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...ols_vmbb1_universal_v_mount_battery_belt.html

 

[Benjamin Cabral]

I am building an rs2 setup with my epic dragon. The manfrotto plate on the back is to mount the manfrotto quick release screwed to the v mount plate to be able to go from handheld or tripod to gimbal quickly. This is the manfrotto quick realease:

https://www.amazon.com/P200-Quick-R...r_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=p200+manfrotto&qid=16 31662533&sr=8-3

With this setup, even if I put the roll axis to the top right, I can't balance it, so for the instance I added two large duracell batteries to counterbalance it to the right. The batteries look horrible, I'm looking for a aesthetic solution.

 

[Benjamin Cabral]

Hi Alex,

Thank you very much for the pictures, very helpful indeed!

Yes it looks like you can save some weight on zoom motor and changing to the original DJI focus motor. But it's a quite compact and short motor, not sure if it will reaches the lens gear. I've try to put the original DJI rod mounted at the baseplate but the motor do not reach the lens gear. I had to mount the rod support at an angle, not a very sturdy option thought. I need to find a better solution for this also.

I'm using this rod support, it is 15mm with a plastic reducer to 12mm
https://www.amazon.com/-/es/gp/aw/d/B08PFR8X9X?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Also I'm using this smallirg long plate:

https://www.amazon.com/-/es/gp/aw/d/B08NP2B4P3?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title