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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Red Scarlet X #316 "Skully"

Great, detailed post Phil. Glad to see your having such a great time with your Scarlet. I've been running my Epic around downtown LA shooting motion control timelapse on it and its been awesome.
 
Thanks for another cracking update Phil.

I know you own 40+ lenses, can I ask which still lenses (if there were some in particular) that you were finding the most CA with?

Is that shot first shot from inside the cave looking out HDRx?

Love that shot of the singer! And being on hand to capture that UFO in the last shot was just awesome :)) Gorgeous flare I think. You had a similar beauty on the end of your industrial estate I think I recall. Are you using a flare guard btw? If no, how are you finding the sensor flare?

Many thanks mate

Best Wishes

Lliam
 
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Phil, havent commented much, but I find this tread to be informing and entertaining (I am thoroughly entertained by the pics and video that you're posting, lol). I feel like your setting an excellent example of what the Scarlet-X is capable of. Keep up the good work!
 
A001_C002_0111QG.0000052.jpg


No, Phil, thank you for posting here in such a detailed, informative and helpful way your experiences. Very much appreciated!
 
Thanks guys!


Great, detailed post Phil. Glad to see your having such a great time with your Scarlet. I've been running my Epic around downtown LA shooting motion control timelapse on it and its been awesome.

I find it totally odd that I had to travel 1400 miles away to do my first city timelapses and I live in LA. Maybe I'll see you out there one evening!


Thanks for another cracking update Phil.

I know you own 40+ lenses, can I ask which still lenses (if there were some in particular) that you were finding the most CA with?

Is that shot first shot from inside the cave looking out HDRx?

Love that shot of the singer! And being on hand to capture that UFO in the last shot was just awesome :)) Gorgeous flare I think. You had a similar beauty on the end of your industrial estate I think I recall. Are you using a flare guard btw? If no, how are you finding the sensor flare?

I'm pretty darn sure under the right conditions I can get any still lens I own to produce chromatic aberrations. This is one of those big differences between higher end cinema glass and still lenses. I can even get certain PL glass to exhibit CA. It's something to be aware of for sure and it's not in every shot.

That shot within the cave is not HDRx. Only the city timelapse material is. There's a lot of captured dynamic range within a standard .R3D. HDRx is really useful when you're dealing with fairly extreme lighting conditions. In the example in my previous post, maintaining mid-tones and retaining highlight information is a pretty common situation that many would use a Gradual ND Filter to deal with.

I didn't use a matte box on any of those exteriors, but I used an flare guard for some shots this trip similar to this one:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/150798-REG/Granview_FB98XL_Flare_Buster_Kit_Extra.html

Come to think of it, I think I have another one of those laying around. They are small and nice to travel with.

Personally I like "pretty" flare effects. However, flare in general is something to be avoided unless you are looking to introduce it's effects into a shot. It does nuke your color and contrast, just like any camera. Proper protection ensures you have a rich image. There is an interesting difference between the flare off of still lenses versus PL mount lenses. Each lens itself produces a slightly different effect. Overall it depends on what I'm shooting. Some flares I like, some I don't. That particular tree flare I do like. Especially with the pan.

A big word of advice for those looking to play with flares. Clean your lenses thoroughly to avoid strange dust shadows in your "UFOs".
 
Thanks guys!

I'm pretty darn sure under the right conditions I can get any still lens I own to produce chromatic aberrations. This is one of those big differences between higher end cinema glass and still lenses. I can even get certain PL glass to exhibit CA. It's something to be aware of for sure and it's not in every shot.

That shot within the cave is not HDRx. Only the city timelapse material is. There's a lot of captured dynamic range within a standard .R3D. HDRx is really useful when you're dealing with fairly extreme lighting conditions. In the example in my previous post, maintaining mid-tones and retaining highlight information is a pretty common situation that many would use a Gradual ND Filter to deal with.

I didn't use a matte box on any of those exteriors, but I used an flare guard for some shots this trip similar to this one:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/150798-REG/Granview_FB98XL_Flare_Buster_Kit_Extra.html

Come to think of it, I think I have another one of those laying around. They are small and nice to travel with.

Personally I like "pretty" flare effects. However, flare in general is something to be avoided unless you are looking to introduce it's effects into a shot. It does nuke your color and contrast, just like any camera. Proper protection ensures you have a rich image. There is an interesting difference between the flare off of still lenses versus PL mount lenses. Each lens itself produces a slightly different effect. Overall it depends on what I'm shooting. Some flares I like, some I don't. That particular tree flare I do like. Especially with the pan.

A big word of advice for those looking to play with flares. Clean your lenses thoroughly to avoid strange dust shadows in your "UFOs".

Thanks Phil, much appreciated.
That link won't open on B&H for me. But I think you are referring to a flare buster kit yes?
With my flare question, I was referencing specifically the Epic/Scarlets known sensor flare issue, perhaps you were too though, and your saying that you will just use your flare buster kit to control any flare issues? No flocking, or Doug Underhals rubber strip solution? I hear RED's own solution is coming soon.

Best

Lliam
 
Thanks Phil, much appreciated.
That link won't open on B&H for me. But I think you are referring to a flare buster kit yes?
With my flare question, I was referencing specifically the Epic/Scarlets known sensor flare issue, perhaps you were too though, and your saying that you will just use your flare buster kit to control any flare issues? No flocking, or Doug Underhals rubber strip solution? I hear RED's own solution is coming soon.

Yep. It's like that Flare Buster Kit. I think I picked it up at Filmtools like 5 or 6 years ago. It doesn't have any "branding" on it that I can see. I think I have one still in the package at my gear locker. I'll check this afternoon. It's really handle for traveling/field work. There are a million ways to create a simple tiny hard flag like that too. I bet I have enough Manfrotto bits laying about to do it as well.

The flare "issue" is there for sure. It produces a lovely effect occasionally though. It often can be flagged and as others have been doing using the "black box" solution. It sounds like Red's little black box is on it's way.
 
Phil,

Great stuff. What kind of high-hat is that on the roof in Austin?

Thanks,
Peter
 
Wonderful posts Phil!

I've had good experience with this libec tripod/head over the last year

Thanks for the recommendation. I'll look into it. I have access to a lot of Miller, OConner, Sachtler, and Vinten fluid heads and sticks. I'll be spending a day with them very soon. I'm shooting a feature in April and I'll absolutely need a better head and set of sticks. Leaning towards Miller or OConner.


Phil,

Great stuff. What kind of high-hat is that on the roof in Austin?

I'm getting a lot of emails about that Peter! That is something called the "Kirk Low Pod".
http://www.kirkphoto.com/Kirk_Low_Pod.html

Picked one up ages ago while shooting timelapses from a platform. It now comes with me nearly everywhere as it's much easier to travel with than a Hi Hat with support board. For cameras bigger than the Epic and Scarlet I'd recommend finding another solution (balance issues), but it works real nice with DSMC sized gear.

It's main useful features are:
-3/8"-16 Bolt to attach anything to
-4 rubber feet
-rubber easy to grip handle
-extremely well built (it's a big piece of metal)

For one of the camera rigs I deploy to set it comes standard for "low" work.
 
Hey Phil keep up the posts, great work. For me this is one of the "go to" threads on this forum.

I had to laugh, working my way thru this thread again. It looks like you have taken "Skully' out to all the right places, the night spots, the beach, the scenic vistas, sunrises & sunsets . Then it suddenly occurred to me, I have seen similar styles of coverage before....... from a friends honeymoon photo album.

So how is the honeymoon going ? lol.
 
Lol, I didn't have my Scarlet more than 1 day and I broke HDRx, LOL. I really hate the beta tester side of me, but the cinematographer side says "YES! I need to KNOW this!"
 
So how is the honeymoon going ? lol.

It's been good and Skully hasn't had a "headache" yet!


A little quicky update. It's been a slow shooting week for Skully, but a really busy week for me. Just finished up two gigs and next week I'm training up an HDR Operator and setting up their HDRI rig. Mostly this week was catching up on some work on a feature I'm shooting in April. I really, really, can't wait to get some of the gear for that project. I'll be meeting with some people next month discussing the logistics of 4k for theatrical distribution. We will be shooting and going through post at 4k. Once we get "closer to the fire" I'll be sharing and blogging a great deal about the process. We have two hard months of pre-production still to go. While I've shot material for other large budget theatrically released motion pictures, this will be my first real Director of Photography gig on a full length feature. I've shot three full length projects before this, but nothing on this scale/scope. Can't wait.

I'll have time for just a few gigs before April. One of which is "B" cam on a music video. A fun event in February and couple other small gigs in March. I'll try to land one or two commercials in the next 70 days if possible. I'm also hoping to shoot and produce 1 to 3 little short projects in that time. Trying to get one of those out of the way next week. Lot's to do!


Testing out 600mm-1200mm
Anywho, the only real testing I did this week was tossing up my Century Precision Optics 600mm f/4.5 lens and seeing how the Scarlet worked out with that combo. This is a motion picture lens from the early 1980s and not many of them were made. It was originally designed for military and motion picture use. I found one for a steal several years ago and needed that 600mm length for a timelapse on a project shot from a rooftop overlooking flights coming in from LAX. It mostly sits around doing nothing, but it gets me to 600mm and 1200mm if I need it. I have something that will call for 600mm next week and currently my Sigma 300mm f/2.8 doesn't work on the Scarlet X (I would have likely used that and a doubler for this shoot if it did). I still might go 200mm with a 2X Teleconverter if the shot doesn't require the extreme length. Depends on the length of road.

The lens is a monster and not easy to use, but once center balanced it's not so bad even on a crappy tripod/head combo like this:
_MG_7593.jpg


This was at 600mm f/10-ish. The lens can shoot from f/4.5-f/45.
A002_C004_0120MP.0000299.jpg


And for kicks I had to see how it would perform at 1200mm at f/16.
A002_C003_0120NN.0000187.jpg

You lose a bit of image quality and optical flaws start becoming very visible, but if you need 1200mm for some strange reason it's there.

The one thing I've noticed over time shooting with this lens at 1200mm is that the effects of heat and atmosphere are extremely visible pretty much at all times. Even at 600mm it's pretty apparent. To get the sharpest images at these lengths you want to shoot in colder environments or times of day if possible. Anything past 30 feet certainly starts to see some wild effects.


Have a good weekend. I should have more interesting things to look at other then birds and oranges in a week or so.
 
It's been good and Skully hasn't had a "headache" yet!


A little quicky update. It's been a slow shooting week for Skully, but a really busy week for me. Just finished up two gigs and next week I'm training up an HDR Operator and setting up their HDRI rig. Mostly this week was catching up on some work on a feature I'm shooting in April. I really, really, can't wait to get some of the gear for that project. I'll be meeting with some people next month discussing the logistics of 4k for theatrical distribution. We will be shooting and going through post at 4k. Once we get "closer to the fire" I'll be sharing and blogging a great deal about the process. We have two hard months of pre-production still to go. While I've shot material for other large budget theatrically released motion pictures, this will be my first real Director of Photography gig on a full length feature. I've shot three full length projects before this, but nothing on this scale/scope. Can't wait.

I'll have time for just a few gigs before April. One of which is "B" cam on a music video. A fun event in February and couple other small gigs in March. I'll try to land one or two commercials in the next 70 days if possible. I'm also hoping to shoot and produce 1 to 3 little short projects in that time. Trying to get one of those out of the way next week. Lot's to do!


Testing out 600mm-1200mm
Anywho, the only real testing I did this week was tossing up my Century Precision Optics 600mm f/4.5 lens and seeing how the Scarlet worked out with that combo. This is a motion picture lens from the early 1980s and not many of them were made. It was originally designed for military and motion picture use. I found one for a steal several years ago and needed that 600mm length for a timelapse on a project shot from a rooftop overlooking flights coming in from LAX. It mostly sits around doing nothing, but it gets me to 600mm and 1200mm if I need it. I have something that will call for 600mm next week and currently my Sigma 300mm f/2.8 doesn't work on the Scarlet X (I would have likely used that and a doubler for this shoot if it did). I still might go 200mm with a 2X Teleconverter if the shot doesn't require the extreme length. Depends on the length of road.

The lens is a monster and not easy to use, but once center balanced it's not so bad even on a crappy tripod/head combo like this:
_MG_7593.jpg


This was at 600mm f/10-ish. The lens can shoot from f/4.5-f/45.
A002_C004_0120MP.0000299.jpg


And for kicks I had to see how it would perform at 1200mm at f/16.
A002_C003_0120NN.0000187.jpg

You lose a bit of image quality and optical flaws start becoming very visible, but if you need 1200mm for some strange reason it's there.

The one thing I've noticed over time shooting with this lens at 1200mm is that the effects of heat and atmosphere are extremely visible pretty much at all times. Even at 600mm it's pretty apparent. To get the sharpest images at these lengths you want to shoot in colder environments or times of day if possible. Anything past 30 feet certainly starts to see some wild effects.


Have a good weekend. I should have more interesting things to look at other then birds and oranges in a week or so.

Nice setup man with that beast of a lens. I would definitely look into getting a better pair of sticks and fluid head. I have the Oconner 1030 HDS and its a really nice solid head. I've shot timelapse using the Canon 800mm w/ 2x TC and it keeps things pretty steady. Going to be using the same setup to shoot timelapse on the Epic next week.
 
Nice setup man with that beast of a lens. I would definitely look into getting a better pair of sticks and fluid head. I have the Oconner 1030 HDS and its a really nice solid head. I've shot timelapse using the Canon 800mm w/ 2x TC and it keeps things pretty steady. Going to be using the same setup to shoot timelapse on the Epic next week.

I'm looking at that or the Miller Arrow 55/Splinter II combo. I won't be able to grab a new head until the end of next month, but it's at the top of my list. Very top. These "smaller heads" just won't cut it for the feature at all.
 
I picked up the Manfrotto 509HD head with the 536 Legs and I am very happy with its abilities. If end up needing more umph I'll just rent the O'conner. I am still trying to find a good quick release that I can go from sticks, to shoulder, to my Steadicam, if any suggestions.
 
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