Welcome to our community

Be a part of something great, join today!

  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

red body heat nead advice!!:(

I think you said you have your HDD mounted to the top of the camera. if this is correct, it can be an issue.

The RED dissapates heat from top of the camera. Added heat from the HDD--and the HDD heats up something fierce in hot weather--and just the fact that it is at the top of the camera can cause some blockage of heat dissipation.

I've had this issue and moving the HDD to another place---the side of the camera---by using ET speed clamps cured the heat problem.

I would definitely move the HDD from the top of the camera to the side.
 
cold spray

cold spray

How about "cold spray"? I think you get these spray cans at electronic shops and can cool stuff down to zero-C°. Spraying the housing every half hour might keep it cool......
 
Overheating in Build 20

Overheating in Build 20

I've got to say I have had more overheating problems with Build 20 than any other. Is this just coincidence? It has been dying even before it warns on camera. Temp says OK and then it doesn't come back on after a battery swap.

I guess I'm a bit salty right now b/c I just had to send out a backup body that will cost me a good portion of my rental. They got ice packs but I wasn't actually shooting this one so I can't totally rule out everything but it's annoying. It's not that hot in LA today.
 
hello to all

recantly i have done some camera test on red build 20 for a featre film.

we went out to the desert the temprture outside was around 40- 43 c'.

after 25 min apperd a temp warning on the control panel, 20 mints later the rec indcator start flashing and a " body hot" message appered.

the fan mode was on "hot"', we recorded into red 320 gb hard disk and we had shade over the camera.

i would love to get your advice on how to cool down the camera!!!!????? (im planing on having a fan to cool it down too) do you think the problem may be conected to the build number ? , if i switch to cf cards should it be more cooler maybe??

hope you guyes can help
thanks

roy

Here's a trick I found when testing the camera for extended periods to see when it would overheat. This method seemed best to keep the camera from overheating...especially in an enclosed, hot environment.

Flip the camera upside down and shoot that way. Hot air will rise and vent quicker thru the vents on the RED One body. Using an ET cheeseplate I was easily able to mount the ET base plate & rods and set the rig up for shooting. Turn your VF upside down for framing, shoot and flip it back in post.
 
I just got back from a 100 degree shoot......the cameras actually held thier "cool" most of the time, since we shaded them and when not in use we covered them with "space" reflective blankets.

Only one camera overheated, we quickly applied the "granny" ice packs to the side of the camera and within 60 seconds the temp was back to normal and the warning went away.

These granny ice packs are great because they do not "sweat" or perspire. We would just fill them with ice and gaff tape them to the side of the camera or any large esposed area that can get lots of surface contact with the icepack.....

Shielding the camera from direct sunlight with space blankets/ shade helps alot. Along with the fan on it's HOT setting. Worse case the granny packs saved the day.....


I attached a picture......sorry I had to crop it because of NDA reasons...
 

Attachments

  • hotred.jpg
    hotred.jpg
    57.5 KB · Views: 0
So to sum it all up....

- Small Fan ( or Bigger ) blowing air over the heat sinks on top.
- Sweatless Ice Packs on top of Camera
- Fan on "Hot"
- Shade the Camera from the Sun "Courtesy"
- Remove any cheese plates from top portion for breathability

Your gonna have more heat issues when the camera is rolling for long periods of times. I would recommend using CF cards because that will limit your takes to 8 minutes to allow the camera a precious few seconds to cool down.

I've had some really hot days out in Van Nuys on Sarah Silverman with our A-Camera on a 9' Jib and the other on sticks. Guess which one over-heat:)

There is a direct connection with heat and increase of noise. This is very applicable when shooting night/dark interiors with 90+ ambient temperatures in tungsten environments.

I've black-balanced when I know I won't have the comfort of AC or will be in a hot indoor environment for long periods of time.

goodluck,
 
Back
Top