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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Quick Epic M shots...

Tom.Wong

Tom.Wong

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So my good friend and colleague, Ben Cain (super DIT and guru of many things technical) got a quick chance to play with a Epic M, and shot some random stuff during a photoshoot. It was very last minute, unplanned and available light only. He brought the footage to me to color on my Resolve and this little teaser was slapped together. You can check out my view on the grading of the footage on his blog, and checkout the vid on vimeo as well.

http://www.negativespaces.com/
 
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and just a little more info, I was grading the Epic footage in 16 bit dpx. It was shot 48 fps, 5k. with 5:1 compression. You feel the difference when comparing to original r1 mx
 
Good read.

Good read.

Tom.Wong said:
and just a little more info, I was grading the Epic footage in 16 bit dpx. It was shot 48 fps, 5k. with 5:1 compression. You feel the difference when comparing to original r1 mx
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Hey Tom thanks for posting. I checked out the blog and it was a very good read (All of it). I am not a big post guy but one can never have too much info.

Cheers
 
Thanks Rion, we really tried our best under the circumstances to put the footage through the full vigors of a color grade. we weren't trying to "measure" anything. We just shot some stuff and wanted to see how well it held up in my Resolve, doing what I do to footage all the time. Nothing scientific, but I didn't hold back any bit with the footage, and wasn't to really try hard to tweak the image. It held up beautifully as to be expected.
 
Tom.Wong said:
absolutely no clue, it was in there with the original r3d, have no idea what caused it. bad luck?
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Because you were shooting slow mo, you're seeing flicker from the light bulbs in the makeup mirror. I see it all the time when I shoot slow mo in sports stadiums or office buildings. Just means your shutter speed was off when compared to the bulb's hertz.
 
I was told it was shot at 180 degree shutter, there should have been no issues especially from incandescent lights. either way, it was probably user error or those bulbs in particular were funky. no point in crying over spilled milk now. i still think the footage looks great.
 
Taylor Morrison said:
Where those bulbs by any chance compact fluorescents? They do flicker and some are cleverly disguised as normal bulbs...Just a thought as I have never seen a incandescent flicker until much higher framerates...which they will do.
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no idea, but that very well may be the culprit...
 
Tom.Wong said:
I was told it was shot at 180 degree shutter, there should have been no issues especially from incandescent lights. either way, it was probably user error or those bulbs in particular were funky. no point in crying over spilled milk now. i still think the footage looks great.
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Even Tungsten lamps flicker at line Hz a little, when the contrast goes up in Grading you might see it more. You shoud shoot at 144 or 288 degrees under 60Hz lights no matter what kind they are at 24.000fps. At 120fps you are on the half cycle so you need to shoot at 360 degrees, but a rolling shutter camera can not go all the way to 360, only maybe 359.8 or so, so there will be some small unevenness to the exposure. You can check the shutter being at 360 by having a flashlight on a record turn table, then super three frames and see if there is a "gap" between the light streak... The camera will not be in exact sync with the AC at 120fps, so you can get some "roll" to the sync and brightness change from top to bottom in the frame (if the sync is off a large brightness roll through the frame set). With Tungsten lights you can power them with DC for highspeed shooting to get no AC issues, but the capacitor bank discharge could kill someone, so that is an issue for using DC lights at 120VDC. You can use 12v lights made for trailers in normal light sockets, and power them from car batteries (if the wire in the lamp can carry the 10x higher current per watt)...

SCR or TRIAC dimmers do not output sine wave power, so the flicker may be higher if they are used.

Also if there are any CF or FL lamps in the room they can flicker the shadows and make them go greenish, so turn them off and use your own fill lights...
 
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