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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Question to RED people

Mike Brent

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Does a "Canon electronic mount" mean that I will be able to control aperture via Scarlet / Epic once they are out? [it sounds like it but I want to make sure....]

Also (Matthew Duclos asks) "Even if it does communicate with the lens, what will the stop increments be? Half stops, third stops? I would also like to know if it can be done in a fluid motion or if it will click like a 5DII does."

Thank you.
 
lens mount

lens mount

Does a "Canon electronic mount" mean that I will be able to control aperture via Scarlet / Epic

Yes, that is exactly what it means Mike.
 
Dear Stuart,


Since we are going to get moded lenses, will it also work if we declick them? I'm asking because I have no idea how these mechanisms work... if declicking them would effect the situation in any way...

:emote_hippie:
 
Dear Stuart,


Since we are going to get moded lenses, will it also work if we declick them? I'm asking because I have no idea how these mechanisms work... if declicking them would effect the situation in any way...

:emote_hippie:

No. De-clicking is a mechanical modification. Not electrical.
The ONLY problem I've come across with de-clicking is with newer Nikon cameras. There is a small spring loaded lever that will slowly pull the aperture wide open. Some "electronic" lenses must be locked at f/22 or whatever their smallest aperture. if the aperture leaves the smallest setting, the camera will not recognize it and will not release the shutter. But that is easily avoided with proper modification.
 
Not sure what declicking has to do with electronic lenses. On canon ef lenses there are no clicks per se but generally they only work in 1/3 stop jumps. I believe that with some software interpolation you can get that down to quarter stops, but they don't really support truly smooth iris ramps.
 
When was the last time you did an Iris ramp on a shot? I can't remember ever doing that, not even once.
 
When was the last time you did an Iris ramp on a shot? I can't remember ever doing that, not even once.

There are ways to shoot/edit around it, but going from external to internal or vice versa in one shot would be a situation where you want to be able to smoothly ramp exposure.

Another would be where you don't have absolute control of lighting - eg in very low budget productions without enough time and lights to light everything, or in documentaries, wildlife, weddings or other live event shooting.
 
I did a ton of iris pulling on my last Red shoot -- car chases driving under the El in Chicago, going from full sun to full shade, etc. Or people on the streets of Chicago walking from the sunny side of the street to the shadow side (after first tilting down from a skyscraper in full sun). Lots of reasons why you have to adjust iris in-camera -- you sometimes have to do it with film and it has even more dynamic range.
 
There have been plenty of times I've had to ride the iris. ENG situations in particular can be a challenge where things get unpredictable.

I'm not a fan of auto-iris. It can get tricked easily, such as a bright window behind a subject where auto-iris would close to expose for the window when that's the opposite of what you want.
 
I did a ton of iris pulling on my last Red shoot -- car chases driving under the El in Chicago, going from full sun to full shade, etc. Or people on the streets of Chicago walking from the sunny side of the street to the shadow side (after first tilting down from a skyscraper in full sun). Lots of reasons why you have to adjust iris in-camera -- you sometimes have to do it with film and it has even more dynamic range.

So is this done in a method similar to using a follow focus for focusing? I only ask because recently I was filming on a VERY SUNNY day between an open area and trees and the difference was HUGE in terms of light, I wasn't sure how I should invest in my rig to handle this better.
 
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