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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Portable Lights for interview

I'm a big fan of LED lights. F&V are just like the Dedolights and I find the 1x1 work great
http://www.fvlighting.com/k4000-daylight-led-studio-panel-preorder-225.html

I wouldn't get the bi-color as it eliminates half your leds to have a different color but suggest getting the daylight ones.

They are also battery powered with V-mount batteries (or small sony L batteries on certain models). I hate plugging in (even if I am indoors). I find the workflow much easier then having cables everywhere and using stuff like kinoflos or Arri style fresnels. If your team is small, you can't spend the time tweaking lights (since it's probably better spent with the talent).

Just some more thoughts to add to the porridge.
 
Cheapest way to go is a Lowel if you want portability. Globes are super cheap so you can travel with a bunch. For dimming go to Amazon and look up router controller. They're cheap and they work great but be sure to pack some fuses.

Best lights are Dedo but past your price range. Small and extremely controllable.

Lowel Totas are inexpensive and great for backgrounds or umbrellas. Rifas are nice softlights as mentioned before. And there's the Omni and DP that are better for control. These kits are very popular with the guys who shoot news interviews for a living and are available on the used market. Flip side is they're not the easiest to control and gel. For that I'd reco an Arri kit - great kits but not cheap. I have some Lowels but own a lot more Moles which I use mostly since they're easier to control - but also more expensive. Lowels are great for ceiling bounce or backgrounds and I have a 7ft parabolic umbrella that can make anyone look good with a Tota or two bounced in it - but not so dramatic.

Pack lots of gels and diffusion also. Test your kit before hand. If you're using tungsten be aware that it can draw a lot of power, that may be an issue where you're traveling. Conversely, fluorescent or HMI off an unstable power source can be a problem too.

As far as grip. I'm not an expert on what to pack for a expedition but I'd guess lots of clamps and possibly some sheets of white ripstop nylon, cinefoil and some duvatyne would be invaluable in addition to your reflector.

Another caution, expensive LEDs have an OK CRI the Chinese ones less so. They're great on power usage but less so on faces. Make sure you really like they way they look before blowing lots of cash on them. I personally think tungsten looks the best on skin tones. I own a cheap Chinese LED that I never use till I have to and then it's the best light in my kit hands down.
 
AndreasOberg said:
In a few weeks we are heading out to the deep jungle to film animals and rescue caretakers.

So far our setup is suited for recording outside. We have 1 reflector and will get another big one.
However we have no lighting yet for indoor shots.

What suggestions would you have for lighting setups indoor? Our budgets is darn strained now so I'm will probably have to avoid the "good" solutions and make do with simpler solutions.
I even looked at construction lights 400Watts since they cost so little. Experimented with bouncing them into a wall and got decent results.
Budget is around $500 this time around. Will get proper lights for the future.

Possible alternatives
- some smaller lights around 300-400Watts. Ideas?
- Construction lights? Maybe a simple soft box together with it since the lights are very sharp.
- Maybe some led solutions. However they are not so strong.

Wish I had more budget this time, but feels like its time to be Mc Guyver this time!
/Andreas
Click to expand...

I actually have THREE options and suggestions for you...

1) FJ Westcott Spiderlight TD5/TD6. The TD6 has SIX bulbs and the TD5, well... has 5! These instruments are made of metal, have a built in speed ring, and accept Tungsten and Daylight! These have been my "go to interview light" for about 6 years. I have 4 of the TD5's! Two set up in Tungsten and two set up in Daylight. They make a "cap" that can go over them! I only suggest to replace the little pin that comes with them with a full on spud, from the likes of Mathews (for about $12 each), so they fit in a grip head easier! I've traveled the world with these lights too! They are STRONG, durable and last for ever! These are about $450 or so per instrument; you have to purchase the globes you want too... about $125 for a set. Use ANY brand of softbox/light bank you already have!

2) Dracast LEDs. I love these guys! I found them at NAB this year! They put out 120 f/c at 10 feet! That's impressive! I got the daylight version. They have "bi-color" versions too! This is about $850 per instrument! They run off AC or DC power! They also have "bank buttons" that turn on rows or banks of LEDs... just like a Kino Flo! There's also a dimmer too! These are quickly becoming a favorite instrument of mine; I have the 1000W and the 500W, and both are terrific!

3) NILA LEDs. The 400 (Varsa) and 800 Watt (Boxer) versions are just awesome! You can run the 400 Watt Varsa off a CAMERA BATTERY for nearly TWO HOURS! How awesome is that? We're in the process of acquiring the larger 2500 W "SL" version too! It can run off a single circuit, as it doesn't pull that many amps! These bad boys are TOUGH! They are made out of all aluminum, have a speed ring socket, variable "lenses", barn doors, variable power, the works! They are truly terrific! They had two in a car for a James Bond film... totaled the car... When they arrived at the car, they found BOTH lights still on, and operating perfectly! These just might become my new "go to" travel light! They are a bit more expensive though... the 400 watt kit is $2300. The best part about these bad boys? 100% flicker free up to 1500fps! So those over-cranked shots look killer with an Epic!

I hope this helps!
 
Last edited:
Curt Pair said:
I actually have THREE options and suggestions for you...

1) FJ Westcott Spiderlight TD5/TD6. The TD6 has SIX bulbs and the TD5, well... has 5! These instruments are made of metal, have a built in speed ring, and accept Tungsten and Daylight! These have been my "go to interview light" for about 6 years. I have 4 of the TD5's! Two set up in Tungsten and two set up in Daylight. They make a "cap" that can go over them! I only suggest to replace the little pin that comes with them with a full on spud, from the likes of Mathews (for about $12 each), so they fit in a grip head easier! I've traveled the world with these lights too! They are STRONG, durable and last for ever! These are about $450 or so per instrument; you have to purchase the globes you want too... about $125 for a set. Use ANY brand of softbox/light bank you already have!

2) Dracast LEDs. I love these guys! I found them at NAB this year! They put out 120 f/c at 10 feet! That's impressive! I got the daylight version. They have "bi-color" versions too! This is about $850 per instrument! They run off AC or DC power! These are quickly becoming a favorite instrument of mine; I have the 1000W and the 500W, and both are terrific!

3) NILA LEDs. The 400 and 800 Watt versions are just awesome! You can run the 400Watt off a CAMERA BATTERY for nearly TWO HOURS! How awesome is that? We're in the process of acquiring the larger 2500W version too! It can run off a single circuit, as it doesn't pull that many amps! These bad boys are TOUGH! They are made out of all aluminum, have a speed ring socket, variable "lenses", barn doors, variable power, the works! They are truly terrific! They had two in a car for a James Bond film... totaled the car... When they arrived at the car, they found BOTH lights still on, and operating perfectly! These just might become my new "go to" travel light! They are a bit more expensive though... the 400 watt kit is $2300.


I hope this helps!
Click to expand...

I think you are breaking his 500usd budget...
 
Curt Pair said:
I actually have THREE options and suggestions for you...

1) FJ Westcott Spiderlight TD5/TD6. The TD6 has SIX bulbs and the TD5, well... has 5! These instruments are made of metal, have a built in speed ring, and accept Tungsten and Daylight! These have been my "go to interview light" for about 6 years. I have 4 of the TD5's! Two set up in Tungsten and two set up in Daylight. They make a "cap" that can go over them! I only suggest to replace the little pin that comes with them with a full on spud, from the likes of Mathews (for about $12 each), so they fit in a grip head easier! I've traveled the world with these lights too! They are STRONG, durable and last for ever! These are about $450 or so per instrument; you have to purchase the globes you want too... about $125 for a set. Use ANY brand of softbox/light bank you already have!

2) Dracast LEDs. I love these guys! I found them at NAB this year! They put out 120 f/c at 10 feet! That's impressive! I got the daylight version. They have "bi-color" versions too! This is about $850 per instrument! They run off AC or DC power! They also have "bank buttons" that turn on rows or banks of LEDs... just like a Kino Flo! There's also a dimmer too! These are quickly becoming a favorite instrument of mine; I have the 1000W and the 500W, and both are terrific!

3) NILA LEDs. The 400 (Varsa) and 800 Watt (Boxer) versions are just awesome! You can run the 400 Watt Varsa off a CAMERA BATTERY for nearly TWO HOURS! How awesome is that? We're in the process of acquiring the larger 2500 W "SL" version too! It can run off a single circuit, as it doesn't pull that many amps! These bad boys are TOUGH! They are made out of all aluminum, have a speed ring socket, variable "lenses", barn doors, variable power, the works! They are truly terrific! They had two in a car for a James Bond film... totaled the car... When they arrived at the car, they found BOTH lights still on, and operating perfectly! These just might become my new "go to" travel light! They are a bit more expensive though... the 400 watt kit is $2300. The best part about these bad boys? 100% flicker free up to 1500fps! So those over-cranked shots look killer with an Epic!

I hope this helps!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip Curt, Björn, Nich and everyone else!
It's still great to get tips of more expensive setups for the future. For our next project I will be sure to buy something more proper.

For those who have been in forest jungle areas filming. When do you think I need lighting? I have been in the jungle twice and I remember that it was usually VERY dark.
Some ideas of different situations I can imagine:
- Inside houses. Most of the time I believe we can move the people and animals outside or sit close to windows. However I have a nagging feeling that we will want to be inside sometimes.
- We will be in some big cages with birds. They look a bit dark so could maybe bring some lights in. Not sure if it will scare the animals or if the lights will be strong enough when there is ambient sun light.
- Outside garden. Most animals and people will be in a garden, probably with very strong sun. I got warned that we always need 1 or 2 reflectors because the sun is so harsh. I got one 1m reflector so will get one bigger. Maybe 2 meter.
- In the forest. If we are in the forest and its gloomy. Then we may need more lights to make it interesting. Could be as simple as filming some insects, trees, flowers, or characters talking. Here we would need a portable solution. I'm bringing the PAG V-Mount batteries so if we are using LEDS this should be possible I guess. Maybe a led (or 2) with a reflector for the faces?
- Forest nighttime. I think we will try to do some filming night time. My first thought would be to use strong flashlights, maybe on our head and use a light weight setup with canon still lenses but maybe we can come up with something better. Here I would be fine if it looks dark and is a bit hard to see as long as some spots are bright, the goal is that it should not be pitch black with lighting.

Slow motion. Of course slow motion is great and flicker is very annoying so if the lights can handle that it's great.
Once again, great ideas everyone. When I get sponsorship for this project or next I will be sure to invest more heavily in more serious light equipment but for now small steps.
/Andreas
 
I have had 6 chinese knock off LEDs. They all still work. I have taken them all over the world, europe, africa, india. I have 2 cn600s and one cn900. I use 1/8 minus green on most if not all LEDs including Lite panels. You can get away without it if the LEDs are just fill and not key. The models I have are the old version with an aluminum housing, the new ones are plastic, like the lite panels. here is a good review -

https://vimeo.com/38974110

Nick
 
What do you guys think of led lights vs tungesten lights? (hope I'm not stepping on an ant hill here!).
As far as I can see

Led
+ Soft by default
+ very efficient for batteries
+ easy to travel with
- doesnt have the full color spectrum, or has this changed. So a bit less pleasing color
- not possible to focus the light beam as some other lights can

Any other that I have missed?
I guess the best would be to have both leds and other lights. Maybe begin with 1 or 2 led lights for these shots.
Also how important is it to have bicolor? I have no experience with temperature with lights.
/Andreas
 
Nick Gardner said:
I have had 6 chinese knock off LEDs. They all still work. I have taken them all over the world, europe, africa, india. I have 2 cn600s and one cn900. I use 1/8 minus green on most if not all LEDs including Lite panels. You can get away without it if the LEDs are just fill and not key. The models I have are the old version with an aluminum housing, the new ones are plastic, like the lite panels. here is a good review -

https://vimeo.com/38974110

Nick
Click to expand...
Nick, can you link to one of your videos where you use this set up? I've used lots of different LEDs and never been knocked out by their performance, particularly on very light skin tones and older women with heavy make-up. I also travel a lot, often to remote places, so weight and power are often big issues for me and any solutions, particularly battery powered ones are greatly appreciated.
 
AndreasOberg said:
What do you guys think of led lights vs tungesten lights? (hope I'm not stepping on an ant hill here!).
As far as I can see

Led
+ Soft by default
+ very efficient for batteries
+ easy to travel with
- doesnt have the full color spectrum, or has this changed. So a bit less pleasing color
- not possible to focus the light beam as some other lights can

Any other that I have missed?
I guess the best would be to have both leds and other lights. Maybe begin with 1 or 2 led lights for these shots.
Also how important is it to have bicolor? I have no experience with temperature with lights.
/Andreas
Click to expand...


LEDs aren't soft by default. Soft light is created by the size of the fixture and how close it is to the subject. Some LEDs can be focussed. Agree with your other points though.

If you are inexperienced with lights, keep it simple, a soft key and a hard back light, (place it opposite the key) - use a reflector for fill and you can't go wrong.
 
Liam,

If you watch this, http://www.islamicart.tv/ all the art pieces on turntables, and all the interviews were lit with LEDs. Also the title card of the guy at the table is 1200par through the window, led fill.

I have found that daylight and LEDS mix, HMIs and LEDs mix, LEDs and KINOs suck. I always put an 1/8th or 1/4 minus green on them, and am pretty happy. It takes a little time to get used to them. I shoot with them all the time. Love them.

If they have any of the Discovery ID show Deadly Affairs where you are, I use the crap out of them anywhere there was daylight, or night exteriors on that show. Although it's all post processed to hell. They are bright enough for fill outside.

Nick
 
Nick, have you tried them with slow motion?
Also, are there any ways in post to remove flicker? In After Effects, Nuke or similar. Havent had problems with flicker before so its a bit new to me.
Cheers!
/Andreas
 
I have shot with LEDs up to as fast as epic will shoot without problems. They flicker at over a 1000-1500 fps I think. Got flicker using them to shoot birds in flight at 3000 fps, so we used tungsten.

Nick
 
Nick Gardner said:
Liam,

If you watch this, http://www.islamicart.tv/ all the art pieces on turntables, and all the interviews were lit with LEDs. Also the title card of the guy at the table is 1200par through the window, led fill.

I have found that daylight and LEDS mix, HMIs and LEDs mix, LEDs and KINOs suck. I always put an 1/8th or 1/4 minus green on them, and am pretty happy. It takes a little time to get used to them. I shoot with them all the time. Love them.

If they have any of the Discovery ID show Deadly Affairs where you are, I use the crap out of them anywhere there was daylight, or night exteriors on that show. Although it's all post processed to hell. They are bright enough for fill outside.

Nick
Click to expand...

Nick do you have any experience with these LED light panels, from FV?

http://www.fvlighting.com/k4000-led-studio-panel-3-light-kit.html

For 1/6 the price of Litepanels, they seem great. There's lots of chatter about them going on. They have remote dimmers, they can sync up, come with diffusion, and can be powered with V-Mount batteries (they even have a NAB video with a Red Brick attached to the back of one).

They come bi-color and daylight (do you have a preference, btw? Can't decide whats better...being able to dial in different color temperature at a distance with their remote <how cool is that???>...or the extra power of the daylight-only panels).
 
I don't like the bicolor. LEDs look crappy trying to be tungsten (gelled with cto, or the tungsten LEDs), at least that's my opinion. I have lots of tungsten lighting for when that is appropriate. I almost always use LEDs for daylight. I have lit fairly large night exteriors with batteries with LEDs.

As to the lights you linked to, I haven't used those exact ones. I have like I said, 2 of the cn600s and a cn900 that look like lite panels, and 2 of the older recatangular 500 LED banks that had switches to turn off banks of individual LEDs, then I have some crazy 1200or 200 led panel that is like 1.5' by 1.5' it has a fan and is ridiculously bright. By far the greenest of the bunch. Oh, I also have 2 of the little CN-160 battery lights, and a bunch of rosco litepads (green as hell), I usually use those under bottles in bars and such.

My experience has been that most of them are pretty good. I bought one of the each of these to test out. AT the time the 500 rectangular banks were pretty good, but the cn-600/900s are much better. I imagine it's probably most of the same suppliers putting the same led panels in different housings. When you take them apart there are no manufacturers markings or anything.

I think if they have a dimmer, decent doors, go for it. The gell kits they all come with suck, except for the diffuser. Look at the yoke design. Like the light panels ones you can't tilt down very far with the doors on because they hit the yoke. The Chinese knock offs fixed that on the CN-600/900 line.

Nick
 
LED vs tungsten is a personal choice. I come from the ad agency world working with both print and motion and spent a little time critiquing color under ideal circumstances and have my own ideas about too much green, lame yellow/reds and color spikes. But it's up to you as to what is acceptable or desirable and what look you're going for. The great thing about Red is that you have a lot of control over color. It's all conjecture here until you test and find the look you're going for.

My experience is that some people lack certain colors in their skin tones and they become a challenge in post. The better CRI you have going into post the better experience you will have coming out.

For interview work where skin tones are most important, I view LEDs a second or third choice at best. For me and the kind of (low) budgets I work with these days, it's Tungsten, then Kino and then then rest.

Nick, the Islamic art stuff looks great! It's certainly possible that I'm doing something wrong and should be doing a better job of gelling.

I'm interested in testing some of the new plasma lights. Anyone have any experience with them?

j
 
Once again, I would only use LEDs for daylight. They really fall apart when you try to make them tungsten. If I have the power the time and the crew, I'll take a 4x frame and a big tungsten unit antyime. But LEDs are really really hard to beat for portability, power draw, and ease of set up.

Nick
 
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