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Optimal black-shading for multi framerate projects

Ryan Chernin

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Say you’re shooting parts of the day at 24,48, 72, and 96fps (with shutter consistently at 180, in this example), and you only want to black-shade at the start of the day.

Is there any benefit to black-shading at the highest framerate you’ll be shooting? Or perhaps somewhere in the middle, like 48/72fps?

Usually I black-shade at 24 if I’m not doing a full day with higher frame rates, and everything looks great. Just curious what the “right” way would be.
 
Remember that Sensor Calibration is good for a broad range of shutter speeds and shutter angles. Based on your frame rates, a call at 1/48th will do you just fine. Even at higher frame rates.
 
Remember that Sensor Calibration is good for a broad range of shutter speeds and shutter angles. Based on your frame rates, a call at 1/48th will do you just fine. Even at higher frame rates.

Copy. Thanks, Phil!
 
I could be wrong because I've never done or seen any real-world tests but I'd go for where the most noise is first, and then balance. In your example, the most noise is probably with the shortest exposure, 96fps. From that I'd balance to the middle which ends up with 72 for the blackshading. It's probably not even a discernible difference after all, as Phil already said, just as a general principle for other scenarios.
 
I could be wrong because I've never done or seen any real-world tests but I'd go for where the most noise is first, and then balance. In your example, the most noise is probably with the shortest exposure, 96fps. From that I'd balance to the middle which ends up with 72 for the blackshading. It's probably not even a discernible difference after all, as Phil already said, just as a general principle for other scenarios.

What about shooting high speed motion @240FPS AND stills at fast shutter 1/500th @6FPS? Would a 23.98 @ 180 shutter black shade work?
 
With 23.98 compared to 240fps (both at 180°) it makes about 10 times the read-out time. The same for 1/500th, regardless what the FPS is then. It will certainly work but I eventually wouldn't use it like this, considering that the calibration now takes only half a minute.
 
The camera will inform you if your calibration is in spec, but I suggest if you are going to and from extremes like 24fps and 240fps, fire off a sensor cal.

Personally I like to keep the calibration within a stop or two, perhaps three at the most if I'm going between frame rates. Then outside of that I'll fire off a calibration.

At the moment on V-Raptor Sensor Calibration is a sub-40 second process.

My only tip is if you are doing the majority of your filming at any frame rate, run the Sensor Calibration for that.
 
Just made the test with the above mentioned settings and the T/E indicators stay green even after this switch, but yeah, it feels a bit wrong.
 
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