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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

ONLY 40 HOURS....NEW EPIC X....... OLD PROBLEM.....TIRED!!!!

Try secure format on a fresh piece of media (not that card)

I recommend secure format at least once a day per card if you have time.


We never done this and never had problems... 1,5 years of shooting a few thousand card changes... So to me your advice is a bit like lick on your finger and hold it up high when you swap mags...

I think it's important we do not to spread unnecessary precautions around.

To me and this is only how I would approach the problem.

The first thing to check in this case would be the bits that came from your previous camera. So swap your power supply (preferably to AC), your SSD, your SSD reader and cable. And then test shoot and see if you can replicate the issue. If not then you add one pice at the time until you find the faulty part.

I bet it's the power cable, battery plate, or battery. My second bet is your SSD mag is bad. And I doubt it's actually anything inside the camera that is faulty. But that's just me guessing.
 
Hey Marcello,

Since 2 other people have had the same problem due to battery plates, it might that. Especially since you had the same problem on the Scarlet using the same AKS. So it seems it probably is an accessory or the card.

If you want, come on over today and we can trouble shoot with my Epic and we can try out all the different combos to to try to narrow it down - my good AKS on your Epic with my good SSD card/your AKS on my cam with my good SSD/my AKS on my cam with your card etc.

I've never had that problem with my Epic in the 1.5 years since I've had it, or any major problem for that matter, so if we can replicate it then we should be able to figure out what's causing it.

And if we can't figure it out, we can go over to the Guitar Center and take out our frustrations by playing bad versions of Smoke on the Water for the other customers.
 
We never done this and never had problems... 1,5 years of shooting a few thousand card changes... So to me your advice is a bit like lick on your finger and hold it up high when you swap mags...

I think it's important we do not to spread unnecessary precautions around.

To me and this is only how I would approach the problem.

The first thing to check in this case would be the bits that came from your previous camera. So swap your power supply (preferably to AC), your SSD, your SSD reader and cable. And then test shoot and see if you can replicate the issue. If not then you add one pice at the time until you find the faulty part.

I bet it's the power cable, battery plate, or battery. My second bet is your SSD mag is bad. And I doubt it's actually anything inside the camera that is faulty. But that's just me guessing.

you are entitled to your opinion here. I've never had this problem on one of my personal cameras - but I have seen it on a rental camera with high cycle redmags.

so, yeah I think zeroing the SSD on a high cycle mag is a good idea.

No one has to try my theory if they don't want to.
 
you are entitled to your opinion here. I've never had this problem on one of my personal cameras - but I have seen it on a rental camera with high cycle redmags.

so, yeah I think zeroing the SSD on a high cycle mag is a good idea.

No one has to try my theory if they don't want to.

Agree everyone do what they please, but just so we know. Red has not mentioned that zeroing the mags is needed to stay away from half frame dropouts, or?

As if this is caused by fragmented mags RED would have made the format function take care of it i think, no?

Also we shoot very short takes normally and our cards has been around quite a bit and not a single dropout like this.

But people using third party batteryplates and batteries or other third party power supplies have had the issue. So to me that is a big pointer towards the power.
 
We never done this and never had problems... 1,5 years of shooting a few thousand card changes... So to me your advice is a bit like lick on your finger and hold it up high when you swap mags...

I think it's important we do not to spread unnecessary precautions around.

To me and this is only how I would approach the problem.

The first thing to check in this case would be the bits that came from your previous camera. So swap your power supply (preferably to AC), your SSD, your SSD reader and cable. And then test shoot and see if you can replicate the issue. If not then you add one pice at the time until you find the faulty part.

I bet it's the power cable, battery plate, or battery. My second bet is your SSD mag is bad. And I doubt it's actually anything inside the camera that is faulty. But that's just me guessing.

Right on the point, Björn, exactly my guesses, too.
 
I am tired to pay for a new camera and use it as used or buggy.....that's not how other companies make their profit!
I like to have a new car that drives everywhere without having to go to the mechanic every minute!
Wake up people....love is beautiful but not with the wrong person....she or he will burn you out.....just like how I feel....booooooooo

Does it play back fine i camera? If so, its not the camera, its your Offloading chain is corrupting the footage. Whats your post chain?
 
Thanks all my dear RED brothers...I feel the community and I am happy to be part of it.....tomorrow My Epic is going back to the shop and we see but the problem is present even without cards and with or without batteries...power cord....tried all...I feel is an hardware issue...I am not a camera doctor though so we will see....and I don't like DRAMA but this is DRAMA...
Thanks again
M.
 
I will say that sending the camera back is definitely the thing to do, but I will give a little bit of advice that might help some. This happened to my Scarlet-X twice. After I got the camera back the first time I had done some test shooting and everything was great. I had an important shoot in early October and the day before the shoot I filmed a small project that suffered greatly from corrupted frames. I immediately emailed my rep at Red about this issue and if there were anything I could do before my important shoot. I remembered what someone said here on the forum about cleaning the SSD Side module with compressed air. I went one step further. I took the side module off the camera and cleaned the metal contacts on both the side module and the Scarlet with contact cleaner and compressed air. I then reattached the side module. I then cleaned the inside of the side module with both contact cleaner and compressed air. The next two days of my important shoot went by without any problems or corrupted frames. I was then told to still send the Scarlet back to Red. I have not had any problems at all with the Scarlet since then.

Hope this might help some people.

-mike
 
great advice mike. keeping the side ssd and mags so fresh and so clean is something I notice a lot of people neglect.
 
It is a new camera and I don't like to be a mechanic with my new car......it is unacceptable as it will be if your new car get you in trouble!!!
I like to unplug cables to make monitor work but I am tired of be scared to get in trouble when I am shooting for clients.....I had to finish the short that I was dp on it with a black magic and crop factor 2.5...
 
I had quite a few of the corrupted frames on some footage I shot recently. In post, I had to find each one, delete it, and copy the frame next to it and replace in the timeline (using Premiere Pro). I've never experienced this before and put it down to the latest beta firmware and the possibility of needing a black shade. (I had the camera set up on a 48 timebase and blackshaded for that... changede to a 24 timebase and shot footy without doing a new blackshade. Haven't done the new blackshade yet because I've been busy otherwise, plus I don't expect to use the camera any time soon and am waiting for the newest firmware release before I panic.
 
I had this happen to my old scarlet, went back to the shop 3 times.

Since then (never got fixed) I tossed it and upgraded to an Epic and never saw the issue again.

Yikes! Starting to get worried about my (B) camera. Just finished the black shade... think I'll shoot some footage to see if the corrupt frames show up again.
 
Looks similar to an issue I had a long time ago that was due to bad offloading. Issue was aggravated by the red rocket causing an image almost identical to the one you have posted. My guess is media based or reader based error, especially as it is 2 different cameras. Basic maintenance is needed even with a new car. follow the suggestions and certainly take up the offer to test. It is a good habit as it may save you a lot of money long term to discover a bad cable over a possible camera repair.
 
I had quite a few of the corrupted frames on some footage I shot recently. In post, I had to find each one, delete it, and copy the frame next to it and replace in the timeline (using Premiere Pro). I've never experienced this before and put it down to the latest beta firmware and the possibility of needing a black shade. (I had the camera set up on a 48 timebase and blackshaded for that... changede to a 24 timebase and shot footy without doing a new blackshade. Haven't done the new blackshade yet because I've been busy otherwise, plus I don't expect to use the camera any time soon and am waiting for the newest firmware release before I panic.

the easiest fix is to take the frame before and the frame after the corrupt frame and use twixor or any other motion estimate timewarp tool and let it make the two frames into three...
 
I wonder if they will send your camera back or your money?
 
It is a new camera and I don't like to be a mechanic with my new car......it is unacceptable as it will be if your new car get you in trouble!!!
I like to unplug cables to make monitor work but I am tired of be scared to get in trouble when I am shooting for clients.....I had to finish the short that I was dp on it with a black magic and crop factor 2.5...

I understand your frustration. But it sounds, from reading your posts ,that you have put a lot at stake on your camera. Believe me but no matter what camera you use you should cover yourself from lawsuits from your clients.If thats not possible do not shoot. Also having your own camera put's you in a completely different spot than being "just a DP" as a normal DP that use rental gear you are always clear, you can always steer the shit smear coming from gear malfunction towards the rental house. But if you are a DP with your own equipment you pretty much have no "way out" when the shit hits the fan... and it will, I promise you that much. It does not matter if you rent out a simple screwdriver, a normal laptop or all the gear needed to shoot. No matter what the stuff will brake, stop working and / or disappear in transport. The question is, do you want to be responsible for all that and take the heat from it. Most people does not think of those factors of the equation when they go and buy a camera.

Rental houses has replacement cameras on the shelf, professional service staff and also as they move so much stuff producers does not think of it as anything major when they do things wrong. A DP showing up with his own non working camera at set is a totally different scenario... It actually does not matter if you where going to charge them rent for you camera or not, you are still, when shit's not working, the dick guy that ruined thier shot...

This is something to think about before you invest to deeply into that amazing camera setup of yours...

A few tips to avoid some of the haze.

First, very important. Make out a contract with a lawyer that you make your clients sign before you shoot anything. Or even better, have a side note on your estimates for the jobs that state that the work will be done according to your companies terms and conditions stated on your web page, or such. Here is our such terms for milo work, basically they state that we do not even need to get to the set, the client book our reputation and we will try our best, nothing more can be taken for granted. http://www.syndicate.se/Default.aspx?Id=290

Secondly take precautions. Team up with another epic owner make an agreement so you always have a second body to run to within an hour or so. We never had ours faulty on a shoot. But, I for sure know how I would solve it within minutes if the camera would go bricked.

If a shot in particular is important to you or the production then make sure to double check that take from a backup drive before continuing your shooting. It's quite amazing how these precautions have just gone out trough the window with the digital cameras being used... When shooting film you are not aloud to take down the set before you got the thumbs up from the lab the day after, if you wanted your production insurance to cover an eventual reshoot... people do not care about those things any more. Instead they go shooting terabytes of material without even checking if there is anything sticking to the SSD's....

Regarding monitor cables, I do not understand, do you mean when swaping from EVF to touch screen? if so, I guess you should buy the +1 module and shut up. No need to be yelling about a solved problem. Or if you are you using a beta that locks up the screen? Then check what the word beta means and think twice if that word goes well along with the worries you are having.
 
I was getting identical problems with footage on the RED ONE. After a lot of troubleshooting, we found the problem: footage was being corrupted when using a Macbook Pro that was plugged into AC power but not properly grounded, during the transfer from camera media or the laptop's internal hard drive over Firewire 800 to an external hard drive that was also plugged into AC power.

I'm not saying it's not the camera... but from my experience, I'd be looking very carefully at your workflow for downloading footage, both hardware and software.
 
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