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Nikon Lens on RED One

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ShinChan

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with reff to this thread

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=73166&page=3

I would like to carry the discussion here as under.

Because of the crop factor I have to factor each prime lens from Nikon DSLR range by 1.5 times. no problems I plan to start my feature shoot - later to be blownup on 355mm theatre release - using red One with intended use of Nikon Prime lens what will be my problems for focusing & how actually should i do focus on such a setup. My film will have static shots with focus on subject without any shift focusing so i hope the breathing wont bother me any where.

Also would the sharpness hold good thru a Nikon lens comparared to other Red/Ziess/Arri type lenses >

Sory for being vague but i am quite confused as i am more tuned to shoot my features on DVCproHD setups.
 
Big Brother said:
with reff to this thread

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=73166&page=3

I would like to carry the discussion here as under.

Because of the crop factor I have to factor each prime lens from Nikon DSLR range by 1.5 times. no problems I plan to start my feature shoot - later to be blownup on 355mm theatre release - using red One with intended use of Nikon Prime lens what will be my problems for focusing & how actually should i do focus on such a setup. My film will have static shots with focus on subject without any shift focusing so i hope the breathing wont bother me any where.

Also would the sharpness hold good thru a Nikon lens comparared to other Red/Ziess/Arri type lenses >

Sory for being vague but i am quite confused as i am more tuned to shoot my features on DVCproHD setups.
Click to expand...

There are many here that are shooting a RED ONE with Nikon lenses. They can chime in. But we use real names here. Please add yours to your post until a moderator can fix it.

Thanks,

Jim
 
the 1.5 crop is only for full frame 35mm. If you've been using Nikon DX cameras or lenses, there isn't any crop when using the DX glass on a RED ONE. a 50mm prime will look the same on both.

If you know before hand that you'll never need to rack focus (which sound very unlikely) then you're golden, it will be a simple shoot. Just set focus manually and hit record.
 
Brandon Fraley said:
the 1.5 crop is only for full frame 35mm. If you've been using Nikon DX cameras or lenses, there isn't any crop when using the DX glass on a RED ONE. a 50mm prime will look the same on both.

If you know before hand that you'll never need to rack focus (which sound very unlikely) then you're golden, it will be a simple shoot. Just set focus manually and hit record.
Click to expand...

Thx Brandon for your swift reply.

I have been using Canon L series lenses all my life so far & have not much odea on Nikon DX lenses are they top line lens from Nikon (meant for non-full frame DSLR bodies)

Does the sharpness hold good for 35mm projections in theatres as for regular cinemas. my whole concern is about sharpness & color off of such lens. i wonder on DSLR the lens focus in Auto mode how does one make true focus ... i ask so as i am more from video world. I on my videos zoom in - then focus - zoom out 7 recompose the frame but on static lens (non zooms) how to get focus in comparatively a mid sized frame on a small monitor. are there any ways to measure the distance & then do some kind of focus adjustment on lens based on the subject distance from lens.

I desire similar lens setup

15mm for wides
24mm for mid shots
70mm for Closeups

i wonder does the Nikkor DX are equivalent to Canon L series lens.


tx again.

(Ps i wont know how to bring my name on screen instead of my avtaar name)
 
If there are no focus shifts than you just can't have any breathing because breathing happens ONLY during focus shifts. It's something like little zoom that accompanies your focus shift.

no crop factor. It's the same as all cinema 35mm. The crop factor is related to stills format full frame 35mm, known in cinema as Vista Vision.

Sharpness is great on the good lenses. try to shoot one stop above wide open, but not if it means under exposing which is worse.
also, take great care to nail focus using magnify one to one and focus overlays to check you are precisely there because this is where you can loose alot off sharpness.

It can help to get a dslr,make it all manual and take some pictures manually focusing.
Hope this helps
 
Big Brother said:
(Ps i wont know how to bring my name on screen instead of my avtaar name)
Click to expand...

Uh... maybe you could just sign it at the bottom of your post? :laugh: That's what a lot of folks do.

Also, you can go to the real names thread and add a post so that the mods can eventually get around to changing yours.
 
Nikon lenses are rock solid low budget option for red owner operators who want to build there own kit. There are several ways to mount Nikons to a RED, I personally use and recommend the ALLStar mount system, its very well made, robust, and versatile. I am going to post a full review soon...using on a feature now. Here is a pic of my 85mm Zeiss ZF mounted to it.
 

Attachments

  • Allstar Nikon mount.jpg
    Allstar Nikon mount.jpg
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focus

focus

Big Brother said:
Thx Brandon for your swift reply.

I have been using Canon L series lenses all my life so far & have not much odea on Nikon DX lenses are they top line lens from Nikon (meant for non-full frame DSLR bodies)

Does the sharpness hold good for 35mm projections in theatres as for regular cinemas. my whole concern is about sharpness & color off of such lens. i wonder on DSLR the lens focus in Auto mode how does one make true focus ... i ask so as i am more from video world. I on my videos zoom in - then focus - zoom out 7 recompose the frame but on static lens (non zooms) how to get focus in comparatively a mid sized frame on a small monitor. are there any ways to measure the distance & then do some kind of focus adjustment on lens based on the subject distance from lens.

I desire similar lens setup

15mm for wides
24mm for mid shots
70mm for Closeups

i wonder does the Nikkor DX are equivalent to Canon L series lens.


tx again.

(Ps i wont know how to bring my name on screen instead of my avtaar name)
Click to expand...

The way to focus manual prime is to open up the aperture all the way- wide open, if it's too bright use nd filter, it can be handled in front off the lens by the ac for a moment, use the one to one magnify, its only the center so you may have to point the camera toward your subject in order to see it in this mode. set focus. if desired, you can also use
focus overlay mode which highlight in color sharp areas. The magnify is the more accurate of the two. set aperture, recompose if needed and shoot.
 
would it be of significant diff if were to use my canons 16-35, 24-70, 70-200 in plcae of Nikkors with suitable adopters for Canon's on RED mount.
 
Big Brother said:
would it be of significant diff if were to use my canons 16-35, 24-70, 70-200 in plcae of Nikkors with suitable adopters for Canon's on RED mount.
Click to expand...

pretty much no matter what lenses you use, the approach is the same.
 
Be sure to use a lens mount that can control the aperture of Nikon DX/G lenses that don't have external aperture rings. The Optitek Nikon mount gets rave reviews around here.
 
Both Canon and Nikon make top quality glass. You will not see a significant difference. And your audience certainly won't. Careful focus is much more significant.

Allstar, Optitek both superb. Red Nikon mount with Doug's mod to control aperture, also does the job just fine.
 
Big Brother said:
would it be of significant diff if were to use my canons 16-35, 24-70, 70-200 in plcae of Nikkors with suitable adopters for Canon's on RED mount.
Click to expand...

Take care of the real name thing so your account doesn't get locked. ...Just sayin'

As for lenses, that will work just fine. Canon L glass looks very nice on the RED.

Keep in mind that focal length is focal length. So if you consider a 50mm lens, it's always a 50mm lens, whether it's Nikon, Canon, RED, etc.. What changes in terms of FOV or "crop factor" actually has nothing to do with lenses. It is the imager size (sensor or film size) that determines the "crop factor".

Full Frame 35 is 36x24mm. Canon has an APS-H size, which is the sensor in the 1D series cameras, it's smaller than full frame, so a crop factor is introduced. Canon also has an APS-C sized sensor, which is essentially the same size as Nikon DX and cinema S35 / RED One. So there is more of a crop factor here. APS-C / DX cameras include the Canon 7D and Nikon D300 for example.

You may need to think in crop factors somewhat, depending on what you are used to shooting on. But it is not the lens that has a crop factor, nor is it the lens that determines a crop factor. The only thing that changes with the lenses is the "coverage" that lens provides. So Canon EF-S and Nikon DX lenses are designed to cover smaller APS-C and DX sensor sizes, not full frame. But if you were to put a 50mm Nikon DX lens on a RED One, it will cover the sensor just fine and will give you the same field of view that you would get if you put on a Canon 50mm L lens designed to cover full frame.
 
Yeah Thx so mch for you all advices. I have done the name change bit on the marked page !

As for crop factor i truly understand the cropping is originating from the sensor size being saller then 36x24 hanse the lens designed as to cover 16mm fov on FF wont give the same effect on RED sensors. I wanted to know does the build quaity of of Nikon DX lens match with Canon L glass ...

Any user uses Canon glasses & what controllers does one suggest to figure out the controlling of focus & apperture etc on canon & nikoors !

has any one ever posted their vimeos etc shot on thru looking thru Canon/Nikkors ?

Eagerly yours ... ShinChan
 
Nikon Prolock(video)

Nikon Prolock(video)

Big Brother said:
Yeah Thx so mch for you all advices. I have done the name change bit on the marked page !

As for crop factor i truly understand the cropping is originating from the sensor size being saller then 36x24 hanse the lens designed as to cover 16mm fov on FF wont give the same effect on RED sensors. I wanted to know does the build quaity of of Nikon DX lens match with Canon L glass ...

Any user uses Canon glasses & what controllers does one suggest to figure out the controlling of focus & apperture etc on canon & nikoors !

has any one ever posted their vimeos etc shot on thru looking thru Canon/Nikkors ?

Eagerly yours ... ShinChan
Click to expand...
There are two main -unique-adavantages to using the OptiTek Nikon Prolock:
One is that you'll lock the lens tight and the worst problem with using still lenses- image shift- is kept to absolute minimum
The second advantage is very simple and straightforward iris control- via traditional ring with marked stops.
You can watch the video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeEOnklv7Z8
hope this helps- all the redusers that bought these are using Nikons with professionals results every day...
 
Andy Jarisz said:
What lens gears are you guys using, if any?
Click to expand...

I´ve used the RedRocks for quite a while. For the bigger lenses I have the Chrosziel. (Less expensive in Germany)

Chrosziels are ON the lens, Redrock are "wheels", making a bigger diameter.
Both are good.

Jochen
 
Jochen Schmidt-Hambrock said:
I´ve used the RedRocks for quite a while. For the bigger lenses I have the Chrosziel. (Less expensive in Germany)

Chrosziels are ON the lens, Redrock are "wheels", making a bigger diameter.
Both are good.

Jochen
Click to expand...

A more expensive option, but I've had Duclos declick and add delrin gears to my Nikons, and they do an excellent job (they also sell pre cinevised Nikons like this).

Cheers,
Tim
 
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