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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

New wireless HDMI Monitoring System for $275

MichaelJQuill said:
This looks promising: http://nofilmschool.com/2014/02/cheapest-wireless-hdmi-video-monitoring-nyrius-aries-paralinx-arrow/

Anyone tried it out on set?

Mike
Click to expand...

Yup, I have one in my kit, and use it all the time. It's a really nice buy for the price if you need something to hold you over until more professional options are within your price range.

Cons:
- Single channel, so you can only transmit to one receiver.
- The plastic shell of the transmitter is too large to fit snuggly into the Epic or Scarlet's HDMI port, so you'll need cables to make it work, and should count on spending a little extra besides the price of the unit. ( http://www.paralinx.net/store/arrow-regulator-ptap , http://www.paralinx.net/store/ultra-thin-hdmi-cable )
- Those extra cables can lead to a little bit of clutter on the back of the camera, and the transmitter itself doesn't have any mounting points. ( a little Velcro tape fixes this nicely )
- Range isn't so great going through walls
- The transmitter can get pretty hot by the end of the day, so you may want to unplug it every once in a while and give it cool down.

Pros:
- Cheap and works. Remember for under $300 you're getting a pretty bare-bones wireless transmitter. It's not a pro unit with a ton of functions, but for the price, it's nice.
- line-of-sight range is pretty good. I highly doubt the 300' they claim, but I've had it out around 100' with no issues
- Latency is pretty good also.
- Setup is idiot-proof.
- Again, it's CHEAP... and it WORKS.
 
Hey guys, you are talking about the Nyrius ARIES unit, right? Not the Paralix?
 
How long does the enercell last I wonder... And Nathaniel, does the arrow regulator ptap actually supply enough power (it says 5v/2a, instead of the Nyruis's 5v/3a, which is noted in the OP link to cause the receiver to shut down.)

What about using an HDMI splitter to get two channels? Twice as much gack, but $500.
 
Thanks Michael. Very interesting find.
 
Has anyone gotten their Nyrius Aries Pro to work at 25fps? I could only get it work to work at 24fps.
 
Works well enough, I've put together a little kit for myself with this guy. It definitely takes some solutions to get it 'Production Ready' (eg. Reliable power solutions, cable adapters, mounting options) But if you dont mind only having a 1 to 1 connection then you can definitely get away with it as a budget roughly 1/2 price paralinx with almost all the same performance features, It doesn't replace a good paralinx or teradek when it comes to a big project, but it is something great to keep in your back pocket to make things easier on set.

Also ive never had an issue at any frame rate - Base or shot - when monitoring via the Nyrius.
 
Mike P. said:
How long does the enercell last I wonder... And Nathaniel, does the arrow regulator ptap actually supply enough power (it says 5v/2a, instead of the Nyruis's 5v/3a, which is noted in the OP link to cause the receiver to shut down.)

What about using an HDMI splitter to get two channels? Twice as much gack, but $500.
Click to expand...

I use the arrow ptap regulator and works with no issues. Remember - the transmitter is designed to run off of computer USB power, which is 5v/1a.

However... I've never used the ptap regulator for the receiver. I just checked the power supply for the receiver, and it is 5v/2a. I think this may be why they're getting bad results. The receiver recognizes it's receiving too much current at 3a, and protecting itself by shutting down.
 
Buy TX + RX Backbone Set (comes with complete kit) for $189 and some batteries from camera motion and you all set
http://www.camotionllc.com/radian-a-106.html

radian19.jpg

radian24.jpg
 
Mike P. said:
How long does the enercell last I wonder... And Nathaniel, does the arrow regulator ptap actually supply enough power (it says 5v/2a, instead of the Nyruis's 5v/3a, which is noted in the OP link to cause the receiver to shut down.)

What about using an HDMI splitter to get two channels? Twice as much gack, but $500.
Click to expand...

The Nyrius Aries Pro Receiver module is rated at 2.1A/5v. When taken apart the circuit board on the receiver and transmitter is so similar to the Paralinx Arrow that I would go so far to say that they come from the same factory and are just tweaked in performance by the programmers at the two respective companies.

For power solutions I use Anker Batteries or a P-Tap regulator for the Receiver and some cheap 2600mAh 5v/1A batteries for the transmitter that i picked up for $8 each - also a great thing to have in your pocket if your old iPhone cant hold a charge to save it's life

I can show you my kit the next time you come down into the city, Mike.
 
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Hey Karl. I'd like to power the transmitter from the same Anton Bauer battery that's powering my Scarlet. Would the AB die a lot quicker?

Which cheap 2600mAh 5v/1A batteries are you using?

Thanks,
Mike

Karl Janisse said:
The Nyrius Aries Pro Receiver module is rated at 2.1A/5v. When taken apart the circuit board on the receiver and transmitter is so similar to the Paralinx Arrow that I would go so far to say that they come from the same factory and are just tweaked in performance by the programmers at the two respective companies.

For power solutions I use Anker Batteries or a P-Tap regulator for the Receiver and some cheap 2600mAh 5v/1A batteries for the transmitter that i picked up for $8 each - also a great thing to have in your pocket if your old iPhone cant hold a charge to save it's life

I can show you my kit the next time you come down into the city, Mike.
Click to expand...
 
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MichaelJQuill said:
I'd like to power the transmitter from the same Anton Bauer battery that's powering my Scarlet. Would the AB die a lot quicker?
Click to expand...

Ive never noticed the draw being much larger on bigger AB or V-Lock batteries. That being said, the estimated wattage pull on some wireless systems is between 1/4 and 1/2 of the wattage draw of the overall camera. Ive never rated the Nyrius, mostly because ive never noticed it drawing that much power.

MichaelJQuill said:
Which cheap 2600mAh 5v/1A batteries are you using?
Click to expand...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390714282712&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:CA:3160

I use these for their compact size and price.
 
Karl Janisse said:
Works well enough, I've put together a little kit for myself with this guy. It definitely takes some solutions to get it 'Production Ready' (eg. Reliable power solutions, cable adapters, mounting options) But if you dont mind only having a 1 to 1 connection then you can definitely get away with it as a budget roughly 1/2 price paralinx with almost all the same performance features, It doesn't replace a good paralinx or teradek when it comes to a big project, but it is something great to keep in your back pocket to make things easier on set.

Also ive never had an issue at any frame rate - Base or shot - when monitoring via the Nyrius.
Click to expand...
We've shot some high budget stuff with this. There were no problems. It just worked.
 
How long will one of these lipstick batteries power the transmitter and the receiver for (1 battery for each unit)? Any experience with using the Anker batteries?:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Anker-Astro...d-Phones-/221227434802?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

I think it would be important to have a battery solution for both the transmitter and the receiver that would last all day without worrying about swapping out lipstick batteries all the time.

Mike

Karl Janisse said:
Ive never noticed the draw being much larger on bigger AB or V-Lock batteries. That being said, the estimated wattage pull on some wireless systems is between 1/4 and 1/2 of the wattage draw of the overall camera. Ive never rated the Nyrius, mostly because ive never noticed it drawing that much power.



http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390714282712&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:CA:3160

I use these for their compact size and price.
Click to expand...
 
For the transmitter, you can run half a day on one of the anker batteries or use a battery adapter with a usb out (switronix jetpack or new solid camera scatter box ) or one of these http://lentequip.com/collections/cables/products/p-tap-usb-charger-ios-compatible
If you have a small hd monitor, you can get power from the usb plug on the monitor. If you use an F55, there's a usb plug on the operator side that can be used. The red one also has a USB power plug.
The receiver requires more amperage that the transmitter. If I have a 17" monitor, then I'm usually running that off AC and a iPad charger with usb out will work. Otherwise use one of the anker batteries with a 3A output http://www.ianker.com/product/79ANBCP-03A or a p-tap to usb cable.

get some of these slim hdmi cables as well. http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025503&p_id=10505&seq=1&format=2&utm_expid=58369800-11.R-enhtUGRrSdHz5vzpVS2g.0&utm_referrer=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.monoprice.com%2FCategory%3Fc_id%3D102%26cp_id%3D10240
 
Shane, the Nyrius comes with an AC power cord for the receiver, right?

Shane Kelly said:
For the transmitter, you can run half a day on one of the anker batteries or use a battery adapter with a usb out (switronix jetpack or new solid camera scatter box ) or one of these http://lentequip.com/collections/cables/products/p-tap-usb-charger-ios-compatible
If you have a small hd monitor, you can get power from the usb plug on the monitor. If you use an F55, there's a usb plug on the operator side that can be used. The red one also has a USB power plug.
The receiver requires more amperage that the transmitter. If I have a 17" monitor, then I'm usually running that off AC and a iPad charger with usb out will work. Otherwise use one of the anker batteries with a 3A output http://www.ianker.com/product/79ANBCP-03A or a p-tap to usb cable.

get some of these slim hdmi cables as well. http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025503&p_id=10505&seq=1&format=2&utm_expid=58369800-11.R-enhtUGRrSdHz5vzpVS2g.0&utm_referrer=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.monoprice.com%2FCategory%3Fc_id%3D102%26cp_id%3D10240
Click to expand...
 
And are people plugging the transmitter directly into the Red HDMI port, or do you need to connect it via male to female HDMI cable?
 
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