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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

New to the RED ONE? Ask here.

Samir Patel said:
How long would the R1 run on one RED brick?
Click to expand...
Depends on the accessory load (EVF, monitors, audio phantom power, etc.) and the ambient temperature, but we typically get about 90-100 minutes from a RED Brick.
 
does lens data(f stop) show up on any monitors for the r1?
thanks.
 
Does switching resolutions (Basically, project settings) to access frame rate changes, i.e., going between 4K @ 29.97 to 3K @60fps or even, 2K @120fps for slow motion, always require un-mounting and reintroducing a SSD (64GB Redmag) that matches (via formatting or pre-formatted) the current project settings on a R1?
 
Hi everyone! I apologize for the newbie question, but here goes: I just received a 7" Red Pro LCD I purchased from another REDuser, and when I plug it into my battle tested Red One, it just has a blank white screen. Is there a setting I might have to change within the menus to get the LCD to work properly? The seller tells me that it worked fine on his Epic before shipping, and suggested since I live in Burbank I should drop the camera by Red and have them take a look at it. This is the first LCD I'm trying on the camera, but it was one of the battle tested bunch so shouldn't that mean Red checked it out before shipping to me? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Christopher
 
Has any body ever used or heard of this mount? Is This worth buying at all?


- http://www.leitax.com/conversion/Cine/Red/index.html

and

- http://www.leitax.com/Leica-lens-for-Cinema-cameras.html


I have recently tried an FD mount for the REDONE it looks exactly like the Nikon dumb mount but it did not infinity focus even when it was back focused. I found this that FD - mount on EBAY, never again.....


any thoughts would be appreciated if someone had come across the leitax mount and is this worth buying.



Thanks


Richard
From NZ
 
The Leitax products are well made. This one does void your RED Warranty (If I recall correctly, this, and the actual FD mounts that replace the PL base and PL mount from Red all do).

This is not really a field swap. It is more a case of a mount replacement to let you use your EF lenses for an entire project. It would be tedious at best to reswap during a production day to go back to PL or other systems while in production.

Glassless FD adapters that use the stock RED PL base can not reach infinity, because they are too far forward of the image sensor to get the rear element of an FD lens into the right distance from that sensor.

EF adaptors on R1 likewise.

The Allstar system is Red approved, but has not yet issued either an FD or dumb EF mount. They may need to create a different base, to deal with the shallower distance to the sensor for these lenses.. and may thus have to dig further into the front of the camera than Red will want to sign off on.
Alternatively, it may mean that Allstar has to provide 2 types of adapters to work with a Canon compatible base unit.. as the depths of all their current adapters in the system would now be too close to the sensor.

If they do solve this, rest assured that it will also be well made


Basically, they are worried that you will damage info cable and possibly other parts of the front of the camera when installing the base units for these Canon Adapters.
 
im sure its been answered but is the reason some of the r1's just have "RED" on the side of them and others have "MYSTERIUM-X " on them because the "RED" is the old red ones that have been upgraded with mx and the "MYSTERIUM-X" is the newer batch that were mx from the beginning.

sorry for lame question, just something that i was wondering....
 
Christopher Gallego said:
Hi everyone! I apologize for the newbie question, but here goes: I just received a 7" Red Pro LCD I purchased from another REDuser, and when I plug it into my battle tested Red One, it just has a blank white screen. Is there a setting I might have to change within the menus to get the LCD to work properly? The seller tells me that it worked fine on his Epic before shipping, and suggested since I live in Burbank I should drop the camera by Red and have them take a look at it. This is the first LCD I'm trying on the camera, but it was one of the battle tested bunch so shouldn't that mean Red checked it out before shipping to me? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Christopher
Click to expand...

Hi Chris

Did you sort out your problem - or still need help?
 
andy black said:
im sure its been answered but is the reason some of the r1's just have "RED" on the side of them and others have "MYSTERIUM-X " on them because the "RED" is the old red ones that have been upgraded with mx and the "MYSTERIUM-X" is the newer batch that were mx from the beginning.

sorry for lame question, just something that i was wondering....
Click to expand...

If the Side Module is a Compact Flash unit, then they had "Mysterium-X" engraved on the Side Module when they were upgraded.
However, if the Side Module is an SSD unit, then they only came out relatively recently and were user installable, after most R1s were already upgraded, and so would not have been engraved. The underlying Red One could be either a R1M or an R1MX. You'd have to watch the start up screen to see what type of sensor is really in the camera now.
 
Hi Martin ..Jim KOZMIK from Canada..just bought a redone mx and it hs always had the birger mount for canon on it equipped with impero wheel.the focusseems to search and will not focus any thoughts.
 
I'm new here to RED and just got a Red One Non MX. I'm not getting very good shots rather it's day light
or a semi sun lit room. I have the Red One, with Briger EF mount, Tokina EF 11-16mm lens, Canon Prime 24.mm
@ F1.8, and a few other lens. I dunno it's just the colors don't look right and in the lower light there's a lot of noise.
Wish it had auto exposure and what not.
 
Hi Leroy,

Daylight is good and preferred to tungsten as the sensor responds better and more balanced to it. I recommend using False Color to check your exposure. Learn about it and learn how to use it. Set up the scene, have a look, and then double check using false color. If there's people in the scene for example, check their skintones now, they should ideally be displayed grey/pink/green. By checking this you know exactly what you are getting. This should yield great results. It also reveals potential trouble area's, helping you decide at the shoot whether it needs an extra light in the background for example. Auto exposure is for lazy people ;)
Once you are sure you get exposure right, then it's onto grading to get those colors you are looking for. They are there for sure.
 
Sorry for another dumb question, guys. I dont have R1MX in the ownership on my red.com account, but I want to upgrade one for the latest color science. Somehow I got v32.0.2 but I believe its outdated. Can someone drop me a PM with a link to grab v32.0.3 (if that's not a crime:)? BTW anyone having any issues with .3? Any cons?

Cheers!
 
Hi Guys,

I've got a real 'Newb' question or two here. Firstly, how does one find 'Redlogfilm' setting on the RED ONE MX camera? I can find the gamma's, just not the red log. I'm not sure if i'm just being blind, or if it's got a different name. And secondly, Jannard talks about 5:1 being the sweet spot. I have started shooting REDCODE 42, which i know is probably overkill, but i want the best out of the camera. Is this what he is talking about?

Sorry for my stupidity in advance!

- Nick
 
Correct, the RedCode compression. I believe REDCODE 42 is 8:1, and is the max the Red One MX can do. The Epic is the only camera capable of 5:1 24p, but REDCODE 42 looks silky smooth too! :P
 
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