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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Lighting tungsten

chucky34

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Hi guys, have a shoot coming up on the red camera. The location is in a white room. Unfortunately we only have tungsten lights available to us. I am going for a clean super white look. I heard of the blue channel noise on the red. Now how do i counter this problem when i color correct it in post? I know i can blue gel the tungsten lights but was thinking of getting an 80c filter to correct this problem. Will it look the same as if i were to light it with daylight balanced lights?
 
You still need to throw enough light at the camera to get a good exposure though...
 
I use an 80c...only one stop...with 1700 degree kelvin shift.

Takes tungsten (3200) to 4900. The RED is 5000, so that is pretty darn close!

Yes, 160ASA can be a challenge. But a filter on the camera is a way easier than gelling lights.
 
IMO forget 50% of what you heard and
shoot your own 4k test under tungsten .. then take it thru post to your finished format..2k ? HD ? 4k ? ...
i don't see a problem ( viewing 8 ft screen ) 4k tungsten to HD ... try to keep all color temp above 3000...avoid under 2800k ...avoid under exposure
 
As I understand it's the same thing.
The 80C shifts your color temp +1700 degrees.
 
You still need to throw enough light at the camera to get a good exposure though...

Quote of the century...

IMHO it's better NOT to filter tungsten if you don't have enough light. Even for greenscreen work...
 
As I understand it's the same thing.
The 80C shifts your color temp +1700 degrees.

Unfortunately no (or yes for only one starting Kelvin)....a 80c has a given mired shift but its kelvin shift depends on the starting temp.

Michael

PS a 80c takes 3200k to 4348k
 
I have came to the same conclusion as these guys. I have an 80C that goes out with the camera all the time, but I have found having a better exposure to start from more important than the color correction when it comes time to image quality.

If you can get enough light best of both worlds is great, if not the filter should be the first to go. The improvements post build 16 to the tungsten correction shouldn't be underestimated.
 
If you can get enough light best of both worlds is great, if not the filter should be the first to go.

Hi,

This reminds me of what many film DP's having been doing for over 35 years. For those old enough to remember Barry Lyndon.

Stephen
 
Don't overlook compact fluorescent lamps (CFL's) as a potential low cost lighting source. Daylight balanced full spectrum lamps are available in sizes up to 85 watts, equivalent to a 300 watt incandescent lamp for brightness. Some of these are specifically designed for photography use and are flicker free. These with a chinese paper lantern make a great cheap soft light. Smaller ones make good practicals too.

Some links:

http://alzodigital.com/online_store/...ment_lamps.htm
Alzo also makes a decent line of low cost fixtures too.

http://www.verilux.com/full-spectrum...luorescent-cfl

http://www.fullspectrumsolutions.com...ent_32_ctg.htm

http://asianideas.com/globelanterns.html

The CFL's have about four times the light output per watt of an incandescent. That plus daylight spectrum balance means less total illumination is needed to get good results with a daylight balanced sensor.
 
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