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I'm almost more interested in this as a remote head on a crane/jib. Well, at least AS interested. But i'm still wondering how exactly it would attach to the arm and what kind of movement it would allow.
Ditto. That's a HUGE part of my intended use for the product. . . . what I imagine trying first is removing the third axis on the Helix (which includes the handles), mounting the camera "sideways" on the Helix platform to give you tilt instead of roll, and then going with a 2-axis pan/tilt head that can rotate 360 degrees on pan and probably something close to 360 on tilt (the limitation being that you can't point the camera (guessing here) within 20 degrees of straight down.). However even that wouldn't be a true limitation since you could manually tilt the Kessler Crane platform to allow the camera to point straight down.
Guys, if you dont put a motor on the 4th axis , you cannot use this on a jib and have freedom of motion in certain angles, . . .
please explain to me how you can mount this on a jib, and not pan at a limited angle?
thats not enough, they will need to re position the pan motor to the 4th axis for it to work. If not then its limited and its a very big limitation for jibs because you wont be able to pan more than 80-90 degrees,
I'm in full agreement with Constantine here. I posted all of the same thoughts back on page 8 of this thread.
Everyone look at this http://www.powerpod.co.uk/default.aspx?prod=PP500. Why not just buy that? It's somewhere in the range of $50,000 is why...
I think a big opportunity would be missed if either the accessory arm doesn't have a 4th motor for 360 panning. Or if there's not a way to reconfigure to hang from the side arm/tilt motor, using that motor for panning, the base motor for tilting and the roll motor for rolling. Because as was mentioned, the stabilizing is less needed for crane work. Just the remote pan/tilt/roll ability.
Make sense?
Because as is, while this looks great in so many ways for handheld shooting. Without full movement on a crane, it's less versatile than the Ronin and others. And I'd personally rather buy something that can be used in a few different configurations.
Hien,
In the 3rd picture of the second set that you posted above, can the base motor (now side/tilt motor in this config) handle the torque that would be placed on it if the side (now top/pan motor) handle were attached to a crane? If so, this is all that we are asking for. If you remove the left(bottom in this config) handle, you get full movement in all axes other than straight up. Which is fine.
My suggestion of the two L brackets was just to take the stress off of that motor.
So far so good Zeb, only reconfiguring. Read my lips, no new pieces. LOLDon't do it Hienie . . . that's what Microsoft did with Word!! Went from fitting on 3 floppy discs to 500GB of shit ;-)
Did you cut yourself Paris? LOLMaybe my horrible photoshop sketch will make sensehttps://www.flickr.com/photos/parisrem/13962396901/![]()
By L brackets I just mean the types of support arms as already exist. Just more of them extended over the top and around from the back to evenly distribute the weight of the camera. And a pivot point as on the left hand grip to allow the tilt axis to move. Maybe the left handle could even be moved over to this position for this purpose somehow.
But again, this is only if the weight needs to be redistributed to relieve stress on that motor. If it's sturdy enough without the extra support, then that's good enough.
Thanks Zeb, I couldn't say it better. That's the advantage of the Helix.To assist with the understanding of the Helix design picture a large suspended 400lb truck wheel with an axle through the exact center bearing. How much effort would it take to spin that wheel with your hand. Not much. Now move that axle 12" off center (thereby making a cam) then try to spin it with your hand when it's at BDC (bottom dead center). You can't.
Conclusion: you don't need much torque in a motor if the load is balanced
Let's see if there's a config that fit your need.
And these
First of all, once the Helix is balance, it always balanced. because we balance it one axis at a time. First, the Roll, it will be also optical centered. Then, once we get the roll axis spot on, meaning the camera can stop at whatever position you left it, it's balanced. Then, we move on to tilt/pitch axis, at this point, it's just sliding the camera back and forth to get the nodal point balanced. Then, raise/lower the handle to get it balanced on the pan/yaw axis. the COG is now at the junction of the 3 axis. Once you achieve this, you can switch to whatever configuration and would still be balanced. In the picture, I just set optical center, not putting the counterbalance weights yet.Hey if you can tilt your camera and also keep it stabilised in image 5 ,on the first raw of pictures, it can kind of work as long as you dont need to tilt up,and need to pan at the same time. and your lens is short.
This looks as a very bottom heavy set up, and Iam not sure how you can balance a 5 - 9lbs camera on the tilt axis, like this showing here, but hey if you can do it great.
nice images and design
best regards
First of all, once the Helix is balance, it always balanced. because we balance it one axis at a time. First, the Roll, it will be also optical centered. Then, once we get the roll axis spot on, meaning the camera can stop at whatever position you left it, it's balanced. Then, we move on to tilt/pitch axis, at this point, it's just sliding the camera back and forth to get the nodal point balanced. Then, raise/lower the handle to get it balanced on the pan/yaw axis. the COG is now at the junction of the 3 axis. Once you achieve this, you can switch to whatever configuration and would still be balanced. In the picture, I just set optical center, not putting the counterbalance weights yet.
I wanted to add that another great thing about the Letus is that you can keep the battery on your body. If indeed it is 3 lbs., it will write a new chapter in eye level handheld shooting.