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Komodo lens options

Bill Ravens

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I've been looking around for a good parfocal, zoom lens to support my documentaries and training videos. There's a ton of reviews around on each of my options, but, they all have positives and negatives. An overriding limitation is that the cost needs to be under $5K.
In no particular order:
1-Canon CN-e 18-80 T/4.4
2-DZO-20-55 T/2.8
3-Fujinon MK 18-55 T/2.9

I like the Canon, but, the larger T/stop is a negative when I shoot with a Komodo, known for poor low light performance. Many times, my interviews are shot indoors under natural light, with a limited amount of time for adequate lighting. I like the power zoom and autofocus, but, these aren't implemented on the Komodo.

The DZO, at first glance, looks attractive, but, its images are too soft for my taste.

Right now, the (unreleased) Fujinon looks really good, except it only comes in an RF mount. Some of my documentary work is outside, where I need to use an ND. The RF mount keeps me from using the Canon variable ND mount converter. If the Fuji had an EF mount, it would be my perfect choice.

I haven't looked at other vendors, like Sigma, as I tend to avoid some of these manufacturers. Am I missing a possibility?
Anyone have thoughts to offer?
 
Given the negatives you cite, one suggestion would be to save up a little more and look at used Angenieux (or possibly a Fujinon 20-120 t3.5) in the $5k-10k range.

If you want to stick to this budget but are not a fan of Sigma (and maybe the 18-35 isn't enough range), I guess you'll have to make some tweaks to the way you work. I'd think the best match would be the Fujinon with a screw-in variable ND for verite work.

Alternatively, you compromise a bit on the parfocal quality and use a converted photo lens. (Some converted photo lenses are pretty close to parfocal, so it's possible that it does the job for you.)
 
Given the negatives you cite, one suggestion would be to save up a little more and look at used Angenieux (or possibly a Fujinon 20-120 t3.5) in the $5k-10k range.

If you want to stick to this budget but are not a fan of Sigma (and maybe the 18-35 isn't enough range), I guess you'll have to make some tweaks to the way you work. I'd think the best match would be the Fujinon with a screw-in variable ND for verite work.

Alternatively, you compromise a bit on the parfocal quality and use a converted photo lens. (Some converted photo lenses are pretty close to parfocal, so it's possible that it does the job for you.)

Thanx. Yeah, that's what I'm currently using; a set of the conventional Canon SLR glass. It's pretty good except they are not exactly parfocal, I just have to work with it. I like your Fujinon suggestion. Perhaps, that's somehting I can do.
 
I picked up a converted / rehoused Sigma 18-35 from PCHood Cinematics. I'll be doing a side-by-side comparison of the photo sigma 18-35 soon.. I was worried it wouldn't be parfocal with the Komodo when using the included RF-EF adapter - but they did a great job, it is still parfocal. If you were going that route, I did ask them for a coupon code for people to save some cash in lieu of commission for my referrals. "Tommy" is the coupon.. it'll save 5%. The main difference in the sigma official cine version is focus breathing - it has none, and the conversion has some.

My lens is in this picture. the primary and accent colors are customizable, it's nice to have your own flavor on it. i went with champaign + red.

143231908_748896802689215_869017214814257570_n.jpg
 
I'm finally settling on a lens. Looks like the RF24-70 f2 is the lens for R&G veritae.
 
Primes - anyone have thoughts on using the Arri Ultra Primes with the Komodo? I like that they're on the smaller end and only weigh ~2.7 lbs
 
Primes - anyone have thoughts on using the Arri Ultra Primes with the Komodo? I like that they're on the smaller end and only weigh ~2.7 lbs
Used, but not in real environment, just played in rental.
Ultra P, Cookes 4, 5, 7, Master P; with Metabones RF to PL.
All raise the question of height from camera to bridge plate and rods. And how to put a motor or follow focus. Easiest and smallest was a rod clamp from the side for something like tilta radio-focus.
It's two way stick as its desirable to stay on a small side with set up and a need to make it workable.
 
All raise the question of height from camera to bridge plate and rods. And how to put a motor or follow focus. Easiest and smallest was a rod clamp from the side for something like tilta radio-focus.

Certainly the Ultra Primes would be great, and a better match than some lenses due to size/weight. But it's as Alex points out-- the value of using them depends to some degree on how much (and how well) you want to build up the camera. I've only used UPs on the DSMC bodies, but can confirm that the smallest Tilta unit, the Nucleus Nano, works just fine (at least when powered via p-tap).
 
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