Welcome to our community

Be a part of something great, join today!

  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

ISO... today

Status
Not open for further replies.
No shim solution

No shim solution

Some reasonably priced early industrial ccd cameras had a user adjustable mechanism to alter the distance of the sensor to the lens mount.

While you're at it, a sensor that can move like a rising back in a 5x4 view camera would find friends.



Mike Brennan
 
I usually shoot 50asa outside so 500 is going to need some big big ND. I prefer not to stack if possible. Has anyone ever done a meter test to find what kind of ND you get from welding glass?

Should be around ND500; that's what the sun-shooting filter I've used was rated at...
 
Today, we believe the RED ONE camera should be rated at ISO 500. - Jim

...now our shutter speeds are adjustable between 1/32 and 1/2000. - Jarred

Amazing news today!!!
 
"it depends a bit on the scene"
"protect your highlights".....

How does one protect their highlights
without a big lighting budget? You stop down yes? and
expose for your highlights potentially underexposing
your F/G action.
500ASA is great if you can retrieve
information from your highlights without destroying the
intent of the rest of the scene. IF it Clips the highlights
then saying its 500ASA is ...well...a little sus in my books.

GrAde
 
Hauser, exactly. Stop down so you're not clipping and raise the exposure [if necessary] in post. We've already seen just how far into the shadows this camera can read [ridiculously far, to the uninitiated]. Do a google search for "expose to the right," a common practice in DSLR shooting. Those who save their highlights are going to be able to make some really terrific looks.
 
Thanks Brook,
This doesnt really make sense as, if your wanting to retain the
highlights, youre essentially "exposing to the left".
DSLR photography is somewhat different to motion picture photography
as you dont have the same ability to control shutter/exposure times,..
well you can electronically but its electronic and still not the same.

Quote "Also be aware though that by doing this you are in fact effectively lowering the ISO used to capture the image, requiring slower shutter speeds and/or larger apertures. If you are hand-holding the camera, or shooting moving objects, the tradeoff may not be worth the reduced noise level."

Big budget films with big lighting trucks can get around this but I feel
that for INDIE projects this will have its limitations like any other digital acquisition camera. Ive seen it with the D20, the genesis, the F900.
The only camera Ive seen that gives good white latitude is the Genesis and even that was off a really well shot short film.
Can I be rude and say that from a colorists POV that sees lots of footage
that about 5-10% of DOP's get it right in camera. And they usually have decent budgets behind them cause theyre really good mechanics of
controlling light and visual contrast within a scene, whilst working with the constraints of Space, budget mixed lighting ect.

How do these other 80 % of operators deal with such limitations.

GrAde
 
ahauser, the term "exposing to the right " is a bit misleading. You are exposing to the right but still keeping the highlights from overexposing. It is a bad term.
Aloha
-A
 
It should be

"expose to the right, but don't blow the highlights.. but little specs are fine its the larger areas you need to watch out for " lol

highlights really do help.. examples under-exposed

http://gallery.mac.com/simonblackledge#100028

A good friend of mine once said " look at the shot and squint, thats what your probably going to get"


s
 
A good friend of mine once said " look at the shot and squint, thats what your probably going to get"

I can't tell you how excited I was too see an exposure slider in Nuke's frame buffer. Finally I can stop squinting to judge black and white levels! :sorcerer:

It's always the little things that count. I hope RED features a squinto-meter-slider accessible through the little control nipple on the back.
 
This has been producing results on all my glass purchases, for instance. It's an amazing achievement.
 
It's always the little things that count. I hope RED features a squinto-meter-slider accessible through the little control nipple on the back.

:)

There shouldn't be any need to squint with the RED One. Just turn on the false-color exposure image and look for extremes of the "rainbow" display.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top