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Inexpensive gadgets and accessories you can't do without.

This one from Hong Kong is a little less money ($39, free ship). If you buy the cheapest eBay connectors to solder one together you'll be in the same ballpark for price:


$_12.JPG


http://www.ebay.com/itm/D-Tap-Male-...84?pt=Camera_Cables_Cords&hash=item27e890ff40

I always wondered what cost so much in this thing... Cheap molded plastic, a few connectors... This can't cost more than a couple of bucks to make... Though the AB one costs around 80 € I think ! Way, way, overpriced.
 
I'm a fan of great flashlights and my current favorite is my Surefire P3X Fury. I have the dual output version that shines at either 15 lumens for sixty hours or 1000 lumens for over two hours. There are flashlights that are brighter, but they're much larger. The Fury is a small flashlight, easy to carry in your pocket. I also have the previous version the Fury P2X which is dual also, 15/500 lumens and uses two CR123 batteries versus three for the P3X model.

The P3X is a torch that has a long reach with very even illumination. Got mine from B&H: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/998688-REG/surefire_p3x_b_bk_fury_3_x_123a.html

While this is a nice flashlight for sure - I wouldn't necessary say it's a "inexpensive gadget" for 165$.

Using the same Cree LED emitter but different - cheaper - driver, you can get a real deal with direct imported chinese flashlights.

This one is more compact (uses 1 battery instead of 2) and you can get 15 of em with free shipping for the same price...
http://www.dx.com/p/trustfire-tr-b1...lack-1-x-16340-1-x-cr123a-287808#.U_s85Pl_tBk

Or if you prefer more punch get one of those multi-emitter,
http://www.dx.com/p/ultrafire-7xt6-...t-w-strap-black-4-x-18650-285522#.U_s99vl_tBk

For the best bang of the buck: get 2 of those, 4 original Sanyo batteries and a charger
http://www.dx.com/p/ultrafire-sh98-...lashlight-black-1-x-18650-162491#.U_s-tfl_tBk
http://www.dx.com/p/genuine-sanyo-1...protection-board-red-pair-121447#.U_s_Rfl_tBk
http://www.dx.com/p/digital-li-ion-18650-battery-charger-6105#.U_s_gvl_tBk

Place one in your AC bag and one in your personal bag or car and always have a bunch of light available without worrying too much about losing a 160$ flashlight.

Reminder: ALWAYS use genuine protected li-ion batteries. Not every battery listed on this website is original. The one I linked is.
 
Dewalt 18v batteries as on-location power.

Dewalt 18v batteries as on-location power.

My all time favorite cheap trick so far:

Dewalt 18v batteries as on-location power. The Dewalt 18v 2.4AH NiCads are available everywhere, they’re cheap, they charge fast and keep an Arri LoCaster going for hours. These batteries are each half the capacity of the cheapest IDX (4.6AH E-7S at $270) and you can often buy a package of two for $100 at Home Depot or Lowes. Dewalt also makes car-powered chargers for them. And when you’re not filming in dark caves without AC power you can stick them back on your drill and sawzall.

DW919.jpg


Search for the “Dewalt 919” on eBay, or find one in your own forgotten tool collection. These gooseneck flashlights came with the popular 18v Dewalt cordless tool set, and most of them weren’t used much. These make ideal power bases because they are no larger than they need to be to fit the battery, the top shape accommodates a 4-pin XLR nicely, they’re cheap and easy to find, and they have an on/off switch on the handle.

DW919stock.jpg


Unscrew the sides with a #15 torx driver or a flat screwdriver (either can work, torx is easier). Pull off the flashlight gooseneck and head, and place them carefully atop the pile on Staten Island, mankind’s largest structure. With a battery connected, make note of which wires are positive and negative (multimeter). Now use your favorite plastic modifying method to carve out enough space inside the handle shaft for a 4-pin XLR. Solder the positive wire to pin 4, negative to pin 1. Pins 2 and 3 are not used. This is standard wiring for 12v DC XLR power.

Screw the sides back together, and find a couple of sheet metal screws (about 1” long) to mount the XLR to the top. Pre-drill the plastic top through the XLR mount holes, and drive your screws home.

For each battery mount, You will need:
> Dewalt 919
> 4-pin female chassis-mount XLR like this one: NC4FD-L-B-1
> two screws to mount the XLR to the plastic chassis

Tools needed:
> screwdriver / #15 torx driver to diss/assemble
> pliers/dyke cutters to remove excess plastic
> basic soldering kit, wire stripper
> multimeter to test

To impress on location, you could hit this with some black textured spray paint while it’s apart. Mine works fine in Dewalt yellow.
 
While this is a nice flashlight for sure - I wouldn't necessary say it's a "inexpensive gadget" for 165$.

Using the same Cree LED emitter but different - cheaper - driver, you can get a real deal with direct imported chinese flashlights.

This one is more compact (uses 1 battery instead of 2) and you can get 15 of em with free shipping for the same price...
http://www.dx.com/p/trustfire-tr-b1...lack-1-x-16340-1-x-cr123a-287808#.U_s85Pl_tBk

Or if you prefer more punch get one of those multi-emitter,
http://www.dx.com/p/ultrafire-7xt6-...t-w-strap-black-4-x-18650-285522#.U_s99vl_tBk

For the best bang of the buck: get 2 of those, 4 original Sanyo batteries and a charger
http://www.dx.com/p/ultrafire-sh98-...lashlight-black-1-x-18650-162491#.U_s-tfl_tBk
http://www.dx.com/p/genuine-sanyo-1...protection-board-red-pair-121447#.U_s_Rfl_tBk
http://www.dx.com/p/digital-li-ion-18650-battery-charger-6105#.U_s_gvl_tBk

Place one in your AC bag and one in your personal bag or car and always have a bunch of light available without worrying too much about losing a 160$ flashlight.

Reminder: ALWAYS use genuine protected li-ion batteries. Not every battery listed on this website is original. The one I linked is.

While I can appreciate the desire for getting a fifteen to one bargain, it's a bit comparing apples and oranges. They may have the same Cree emitter, but they're not the same flashlight in design or construction. But to each his own. I've had enough of the cheap Chinese knock-offs to realize I prefer the Surefire.
 
Thanks Tommaso.

The Arri Locaster LED lights will take 11 - 36V. Hexolux 12 - 24V. Read the manual before wiring it up, obviously. I'm not using these on my Epic. Not only is the voltage inappropriate, the format is just not practical for strapping onto a camera. But for setting down next to a light on a stand or powering a small sound cart, it's a clean and cheap solution with backup sources available in every city in the US. If you're not comfortable soldering, using a multimeter, or carefully reading a manual, this is probably not the trick for you...


Thanks Sean, nice tip!

Are you sure that 18V isn't too much??

Only the AJA Converters are rated 5-20V but usually it's more like 9-17V for accessories and 11-17V for cameras...
 
While I can appreciate the desire for getting a fifteen to one bargain, it's a bit comparing apples and oranges. They may have the same Cree emitter, but they're not the same flashlight in design or construction. But to each his own. I've had enough of the cheap Chinese knock-offs to realize I prefer the Surefire.

Not arguing in any way - I absolutely appreciate a good flashlight like a good camera or lens - but in a thread called "Inexpensive gadgets" I felt I just had to add the knock-off angle. :)
 
While this is a nice flashlight for sure - I wouldn't necessary say it's a "inexpensive gadget" for 165$.

Using the same Cree LED emitter but different - cheaper - driver, you can get a real deal with direct imported chinese flashlights.

This one is more compact (uses 1 battery instead of 2) and you can get 15 of em with free shipping for the same price...
http://www.dx.com/p/trustfire-tr-b1...lack-1-x-16340-1-x-cr123a-287808#.U_s85Pl_tBk

Or if you prefer more punch get one of those multi-emitter,
http://www.dx.com/p/ultrafire-7xt6-...t-w-strap-black-4-x-18650-285522#.U_s99vl_tBk

For the best bang of the buck: get 2 of those, 4 original Sanyo batteries and a charger
http://www.dx.com/p/ultrafire-sh98-...lashlight-black-1-x-18650-162491#.U_s-tfl_tBk
http://www.dx.com/p/genuine-sanyo-1...protection-board-red-pair-121447#.U_s_Rfl_tBk
http://www.dx.com/p/digital-li-ion-18650-battery-charger-6105#.U_s_gvl_tBk

Place one in your AC bag and one in your personal bag or car and always have a bunch of light available without worrying too much about losing a 160$ flashlight.

Reminder: ALWAYS use genuine protected li-ion batteries. Not every battery listed on this website is original. The one I linked is.

not so cheap... but literally the brightest small flash light you can get. I use it to edgelight night exteriors or signal planes from 20 miles: 1800 fucking Lumens.... 1800! http://www.fenixlighting.com/products/fenix-tk35ue-led-flashlight.aspx

Then my Back up bad ass flash light is the trusty rusty Fenix LD22 ( gifted to me by the great Matt Gottshalk) http://www.fenixlighting.com/products/fenix-flashlights-ld22-led-flashlight.aspx At least 6 years old, works like new....
 
Thanks Tommaso.

I wouldn't indiscriminately use them to power everything. The Arri Locasters will take 11 - 36V. Hexolux 12 - 24V. Read the manual before wiring it up, obviously. I'm not using these on my Epic. Not only is the voltage inappropriate, the format is just not practical for strapping onto a camera. But for setting down next to a light on a stand or powering a small sound cart, it's a clean and cheap solution with backup sources available in every city in the US. If you're not comfortable soldering, using a multimeter, or carefully reading a manual, this is probably not the trick for you...
Won't this flashlight handle also interface with the DeWalt 14.4v, 12v, and 7.2v batteries?
 
Won't this flashlight handle also interface with the DeWalt 14.4v, 12v, and 7.2v batteries?

The DC9071 12v and DeWalt DC9094 14.4v are both 2.4AH, and work nicely for lower voltage applications. The handle needs to have the slightest amount of material filed down near the entry to allow the lower voltage batteries to slide in. They will all use the same chargers as the 18v. I picked up a 14.4v and have been using it with my audio kit when I do OMB dual-system. It powers my Maxx recorder and Lectro wireless through a BDS all day long.

There are also some small and cheap voltage regulators available that may be worthwhile for low-draw gear, that would make it possible to use the 18v but dial the voltage down. But they would not be reliable for the kind of wattage a camera requires. Like these cheap Buck Converters on eBay for less than $5 that top out at 3 amps:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LM2596-DC-P...753?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20d9257f41


Or this one for $65 that tops out at 2 amps (thanks Alan Rencher for earlier post)

You can use this to power accessories from Movi Lipos, Red Bricks, or USB batteries. Power a Teredek Bolt from a USB battery like a Paralinx Arrow! http://mediablackout.net/product/dynamo-dc-converter/

IMG_20140720_162529316_HDR-1-1024x819.jpg
 
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Great thread guys. Just burned a couple hours reading through all 26 pages. I'll dig through and see what I use a lot. Keep it coming!
 
I bought this one for my Epic for those quick and dirty low angle shots. (or for those stealthy, lightweight missions where you don't want to carry a tripod) Works great and I no longer need a hi-hat for low, locked down shots. There's a 1/4" screw in the center and I connected a quick release plate onto it.

http://thepod.ca/red pod page.html
 

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I bought this one for my Epic for those quick and dirty low angle shots. (or for those stealthy, lightweight missions where you don't want to carry a tripod) Works great and I no longer need a hi-hat for low, locked down shots. There's a 1/4" screw in the center and I connected a quick release plate onto it.

http://thepod.ca/red%20pod%20page.html
Used to have this one, it´s great. But it was so small I lost it. Got to get a new one soon
 
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