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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Incredible dynamic range...that I cannot yet control

Michael, when you where at that studio, where the studio lights dimmed? Usually does high end studios have very dimmed lights to have a mood, i feel your 5d picture is too bright. was it that bright in your eyes?

If I'm not mistaken he did a composite of multiple exposure to create that shot.
 
We have dimmers and can make the control room dark. But, honestly, it's pretty enough that people don't mind looking at it in the light. If you check out the video I posted, that gives a good feel of an actual session. Also, when people are working fast, sometimes a little extra light helps.

Matt, your mention of linear gamma gave me a thought, which is to start with REDlog and then create a double S-curve, one for the console the first inflection) then another for the buttons. There's slightly more gray than I'd like to see in the result, but this might be a start (1/4 res link URL, attachment is even smaller):

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ltw262ub9hx9k4u/APIv2.0000000.jpg

The button colors are still way on the magenta side (they should be red). But I think I'm getting it.
 

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Thanks for reminding me...I do have some reference pictures of "mood lighting":

2PBO2333.JPG


As you can see, the MUTE buttons (RED) have blown to nearly white closer to the camera, but as they fade into the distance, they fade from magenta-ish to red-ish. Which makes sense: the farther away the button gets, 1/r^2 has its effect, and that effect is amplified when the bokeh smears that smaller amount of light over a larger portion of the image.

What I'm hoping to do with DRAGON is to avoid that false color shift completely.
 
I just played around a bit in Resolve. Looks like those red buttons closer to camera and are gone regardless of what you do, so I tried to bring back the numbers on the ones that were recoverable and bring up the level meters. Not sure if this is what you are looking for.
The way I deal with stuff like that in Resolve is: 1) bring up the entire scene normally, 2) do a power window isolating the area with the buttons, 3) create another node isolating the Red of the buttons only, and 4) drop the Red Luminance. Do that, and I'd guarantee you'll pick up another 10-15% of detail that's buried in there. The alternative would be to use a Parallel node that would retain all the detail of the original shot and drop that into just the buttons. This is a fairly common situation, fairly trivial to fix or at least improve in about 10 seconds.

I do agree that clipping pin-point lights are often a challenge, particularly when you consider they're 3 or 4 stops brighter than anything else in the shot, and also when they're out of focus.

Matt Ryan above has some good ideas and suggestions.
 
Great minds think alike...

Matt, your mention of linear gamma gave me a thought, which is to start with REDlog and then create a double S-curve, one for the console the first inflection) then another for the buttons. [...]

I can send you this .RMD if you like, almost matches what you got on your 5D...straight from RedCine :)

2ir5gte.jpg


When reds blow out, try using RedColor2 instead of 3.

The curve you came up with is almost exactly the same shape that I did, based on Matt's comments. Thanks for the tip on RedColor2. And thanks to all who jumped in with their help.

Obviously I have set myself up for a challenge to capture the intrinsic lighting of an object whose dynamic range is so ridiculously high. But that's why I'm evaluating the DRAGON ;-)

As I reflect on my experiences shooting this control room (https://plus.google.com/b/109922217...922217667577032222/albums/5951322765189372193) I realize that I was not getting shots like this on Day 1. It took a certain amount of trial and error before I figured out how to make the images look good, even when the math was breaking down left and right. I think I just need to spend some more time with the DRAGON to find the sweet spot for it. I will keep at it...and perhaps ultimately forgive the math as long as the images rock. What I really want is the gorgeous glow of the console to shine through, like it does here:

2PBO2336.JPG


Once I get that dialed in, I can start working on the glass diffusor at the back of the control room. Here's how the EOS 5D3 sees it with a little help from a -2 and a +2 exposure correction masked in by hand:

1PBO2554-720p.jpg


The glass that mostly primary colors has -2 stops applied (dichroic glass transmitting daylight), and the glass that looks like CMY jewelry (same glass, reflecting interior light of control room) has +2 stops applied. In real life, that's what they eye actually sees.
 
And here's some non-DRAGON footage that shows the console in the context of the studio. The MUTE and SOLO buttons in those contexts seem to flesh out with less cartoon-like colors:


The above video was very lightly graded in Resolve (just enough to get some Panasonic AF100s to agree with a Blackmagic Cinema Camera). Obviously the text on those buttons is way gone...and the video is only 1080p. But if there's enough text to read the buttons, and there's enough dynamic range to read them, too, then why not have an image that makes things legible and beautiful!


Love the track in this video!

Looking at the file now...



Battistella
 
You are looking for that shot to look more like this? Right out of RCX?

Battistella

audio_board.jpg
 
Nice! A little less green in the yellow SOLO buttons and a little less blue in the red MUTE buttons. But YEAH! Very nice.


That was just out of RCX.

Here is a little Resolve action. That yellow will take a little extra work. IS this new OLPF?



resolveboard.png
 
This dragon does not have the newest olpf.

I have upgrade my Davin I resolve to 10.1.1 and lowered my resolution down to 4k. That has enabled me to work without crashing every time I activate highlighting in the qualifier window.
 
I am happy to report that DC/RG4 does what I want it to do. It tames the excessively red switches and makes everything else look right.
 
Post a link to a file with a few frames of the R3D again. I'd like to check out a couple of things.
 
Ugh. Looks like my fault for moving/deleting the DropBox files. Here's something very much like what I posted before, but as a collection of R3D files. These are shots of the console with some DSC Chroma Du Monde charts. From f1.4 down to f16.

As I look at these images with different color models, I see that RedColor over-saturates the red mute buttons, RedColor2 really desaturates them, then RedColor3 re-saturates them, and DRAGONcolor desaturates them again, albeit not nearly as much as RC2.

Here's the DropBox link: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xz3b2o2hq0e7r6g/r4p2lqBTaJ
 
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