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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Ideal temperature ? 35C? 40C? 42C?

Thanks for the input Phil.

No worries Rand, not sure how much noise and colour detail can be seen via these web pictures, but thought I'd give it a go anyway.
 
But isn't tint the shift equal in all the squares from the same test? Wich could be easely corrected with WB? Or do you see a shift to green or red in the same gray chart test depending to the darkness of the squares?
 
Patrick Tresch said:
But isn't tint the shift equal in all the squares from the same test? Wich could be easely corrected with WB? Or do you see a shift to green or red in the same gray chart test depending to the darkness of the squares?
Click to expand...

As far as I can tell, there's a tint that's there with all exposure values using the same calibration, which becomes more pronounced with underexposure. It's barely noticeable in the normally exposed frames and could be easily corrected I imagine.


Edit - Just compared four separate 43°C calibrations. Some very slight differences between them. Shot the same chart under the same light as before, went two stops over and under, didn't see the green shift this time when underexposing using any of the four calibrations. The only difference between how I shot before was capturing at 5600°K instead of 6300°K and using ND's to adjust exposure. Re-shot using one of the four 43°C calibrations at 5600°K and adjusting exposure via lens aperture, still not seeing the same green shift as before. Re-shot at 6300°K adjusting exposure via lens aperture, still no green shift with underexposure, with the noise tint tending towards red, which is largely corrected via the DEB setting in RC-X.
 
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I've been doing further casual testing of blackshades at different temps and looking for variations between blackshades at the same temp, which is pretty easy to do now with the DSMC2 system.

There doesn't seem to be anything in it, they all look alright (from 42-46°C so far) and I think you're more likely to find other factors having more of an effect on your basic image quality.

I'm still probably going to stick to 43-44°C range, but that's mostly based on fan noise now, which will vary anyway depending on your ambient temp. In my current ambient temperature for example I notice the fans working a little harder once I try to get down to 42°C, so I'd probably set the blackshade above that.

As always, test for yourself as need be and customize your settings to suit your own particular setups.
 
Very interesting, thank you all!
Im am still wondering why RED delivers the camera and new firmware with the 36° setting? Does this have ANY advantage over 43/44°?
Can you guys still confirm the cleaner image at higher temperature settings after using the higher settings for a while now?
 
I thought I remember that some Red Tech told me that the default temp had something to do with a prolonged sensor life and maintaining the quality of the sensor over years of service... I could be just talking smack...
 
As the weather's hotter here now, I've upped my calibration to 46° to keep the fan noise at a minimum. It's been running at that temp for a while, with no visible decrease in image quality.

I suspect the camera's come with a 36° calibration because they're being tested before shipping in a cooler climate-controlled environment there at the RED factory.
 
I’ve been told that lower temperature yields less noise. But, if you are working in a hotter climate, you will need to black shade at a higher temperature. Some DPs I work with keep a few black shades of various temperatures but they always try to use the coolest setting. Naturally a hotter temp cal will result in lower fan noise, but I would look more closely at image noise if you run a hotter black shade cal.
 
Brandon Habuda did some tests and post them on facebook.

Here is the link : https://www.facebook.com/groups/1816671215236474/permalink/1963865827183678/

We can see through his test that the right spot for the temp//noise seems to be between 43/46C.

jJ-c9WNW9KLNFgsEY9izsNfbiHUt9_Oidx963XX78hVLyyNncekp5HBLVmgueYzdRehriZBpOh7Cscc=w2642-h2278
 
I didn't go higher or lower so I can't say, but 42 to 46°C all looked fine to me when I tested them, with little to no visible difference between them.

I think you'd get a more noticeable difference from going off-temp when using any of those calibrations, which does infer you would ideally be using a mid-range calibration that your fans can compensate for if your ambient temp gets hotter or colder (eg. 44°C, if possible).

I can remember shooting once and noticing a drastic increase of noise in the monitor image, quickly realized a plastic bag I was holding was blocking the front fan intake and raising the sensor temp, that's all it took to get a visible increase in noise.

Might get around to testing that actually, what each degree of going off-calibrated-temp actually looks like in the recorded image.
 
Russ Fill said:
I thought I remember that some Red Tech told me that the default temp had something to do with a prolonged sensor life and maintaining the quality of the sensor over years of service... I could be just talking smack...
Click to expand...

This is possible and if I used my camera everyday and wanted to run it for 5 years before replacement it might be an issue but I am finding I am only using sensors for a couple of years before updating. In practice I only use the higher temperature calibration over summer so total “hot” time is low.

I believe Red set the sensor temperature at the nominal 36c as it minimizes camera warm up time. Personally I have a summer setting and a winter setting and leave it at that.
 
Just to be clear, this all this info is relevant for the Scarlet-W as well? Or more for Epic-W? Does it make a difference or is all all DSMC2 related?
 
Not sure Jan. The Dragon sensor (Scarlet-W) was able to run warmer than the old MX sensor, can't remember though if there was a difference between it and the Helium (Epic-W) sensor.

In any case, the specific camera firmware you're using should give you the appropriate range of temperatures to choose from. With the Helium sensor you can set the fans manually to keep the sensor at 30-48°C. If the Scarlet-W has the same range, then I'd assume it has the same or similar enough running temperatures.
 
Hello Guys, How do you define the temperature of black shading? I can not do the black shading for another sensor temperature of 38 ° C on my Scarlet-W, I set the temperature of the fans so that the sensor evening at 43 ° C and when I made the black shading he does the calibration for 38 ° C ...

And also, for info: when I set the fans to 43, it is written in red "change the sensor temperature requires calibration of the sensor" and the temperature does not rise above 39 ° C

There is something that I did wrong? Thank you
 
Thank you Patrick, I just made a test strangely, I have to set the fans to 46 so that the sensor is a 42.... And when it arrives at 42 and I put the fans at 42 it goes down to 39..
 
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