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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Group Buy - Tilta Gravity Gimbal

Sorry to be a dickhead about it, but I'm soooooooooooooooooo happy I decided to wait for the Mōvi pro.

Hello Freefly , my mimic controller is working , "sorry to hear that -let's help you get it up and running right away."

I mean, I get it, sometimes Cheap is what you need, but something this failure prone, would rather pay 3-4x as much but have a real pro device.
Maybe 2x certainly not 4x, Freefly is good but for 10k its no more in the realm of solo ops/occasional use, its now in the "pro" gimbal operators realm where you do that "almost" solely as a source of income
 
Maybe 2x certainly not 4x, Freefly is good but for 10k its no more in the realm of solo ops/occasional use, its now in the "pro" gimbal operators realm where you do that "almost" solely as a source of income

I did the same. I'm going for the Freefly. I can't afford to get burned by "not quite ready for prime time" gear.
 
Maybe 2x certainly not 4x, Freefly is good but for 10k its no more in the realm of solo ops/occasional use, its now in the "pro" gimbal operators realm where you do that "almost" solely as a source of income

The Movi Pro is only $6500. That said, for me it would have been around $4k more to purchase, more than I have free right now. And the Gravity is potentially a better "poor man's" remote head.
 
Wrote a bit on my blog about using the gravity for the 1st time on a shoot, hopefully I didn't ramble too much, also have some footage on there:

http://otherworldmediafilms.com/aerial-shoot-with-the-tilta-gravity-gimbal/

Hey Tom , just looked at your link and I hought I would give you a few tips no matter what.

First of all, I will say this, and that is for all bodymount systems currently availabe from the 50k steadicam systems to the lower type, Readyrig, easyrig, exoskeletons, etc etc.

DO NOT IN ANY CASE wear the system while shooting sitting on a vehicle no matter what that is. Its not clear 100% but it looks to me you are sitting wearing the Rrig, dont do this man. Shooting with body mounted systems that generate leverage forces, in your hips and back, can block vanes and ddamage your spiral cord , no matter what, I could explain this better in my own language , so I might be using the wrong terms and words here, but in reality all you need to know is, DONT DO IT, its dangerous and it can cause a lot of damage , and you wont be able to tell its coming either. Use a hard mount option. Pretty straight fwd and safe.

Now as far as the capacity of 33lbs camera. There us a lot of uncertainty about what exactly Tilta means about putting 33lbs camera on this. Fom what I can tell there is no way this structure can support this camera weight with out flex, and potential danger, and in any way, its not only weight its also size of the camera package, it would be really hard to imagine a camera that is 33lbs as small as an epic basic set up or mini alexa.

All in all motor power means more or less nothing if the rest of the structure isnt strong enough to support the given max load.

and I find it particulary thoughtless for a company to make all those statements from the engineering point of view.

The gimbal can be good and it can be reliable, time will tell. But those statements do not fit with a responsible engineering opinion.

my 2 cents.
 
The Movi Pro is only $6500. That said, for me it would have been around $4k more to purchase, more than I have free right now. And the Gravity is potentially a better "poor man's" remote head.
It does add up to 10k to have all that's needed for a paid enviroment kinda shoot. Maybe additional 2/3 pairs of batteries, classic handles (for those times you might need it), power cable, case. Looking more carefully maybe not 10k, certainly between 8-9k. Nonetheless, the Movi is very desirable but in time I see Gravity very good contender and when you factor in the price point, and if (and only if) Yang would take manual (& documentation) as seriously as they do product development, Gravity is going to be a real winner.

As for folks who complain Mimic belongs to Freefly, I doubt if Freefly can patent the word "mimic" alone, and the word is as descriptive as what the controller does. What I sense is probably some iterations to come the word Mimic will be as generic as "RC" is to certain product categories. It will become standard for Gimbals to have Mimic Controllers. Remote Control, Mimic Controllers. Period! Not to take away from Freefly's beautiful implementation and desire to be innovative (and delivering at it), but to put Tilta's efforts at delivering a mimic controller as a cheap copycat of Freefly's Mimic (read on fb group) is just plain funny. Though Tilta does seem to remind me of DJI in the CS dept.

Perhaps Tilta should hire Cinemilled to help out with Manual, documentation & FAQ development for Gravity
 
Hey Tom , just looked at your link and I hought I would give you a few tips no matter what.

First of all, I will say this, and that is for all bodymount systems currently availabe from the 50k steadicam systems to the lower type, Readyrig, easyrig, exoskeletons, etc etc.

DO NOT IN ANY CASE wear the system while shooting sitting on a vehicle no matter what that is. Its not clear 100% but it looks to me you are sitting wearing the Rrig, dont do this man. Shooting with body mounted systems that generate leverage forces, in your hips and back, can block vanes and ddamage your spiral cord , no matter what, I could explain this better in my own language , so I might be using the wrong terms and words here, but in reality all you need to know is, DONT DO IT, its dangerous and it can cause a lot of damage , and you wont be able to tell its coming either. Use a hard mount option. Pretty straight fwd and safe.

Now as far as the capacity of 33lbs camera. There us a lot of uncertainty about what exactly Tilta means about putting 33lbs camera on this. Fom what I can tell there is no way this structure can support this camera weight with out flex, and potential danger, and in any way, its not only weight its also size of the camera package, it would be really hard to imagine a camera that is 33lbs as small as an epic basic set up or mini alexa.

All in all motor power means more or less nothing if the rest of the structure isnt strong enough to support the given max load.

and I find it particulary thoughtless for a company to make all those statements from the engineering point of view.

The gimbal can be good and it can be reliable, time will tell. But those statements do not fit with a responsible engineering opinion.

my 2 cents.
Thanks alot for that advice Constantine. Learnt something new. As for Tilta's claim, I wonder why they would claim 33lbs when general user comments suggest otherwise. For those that have some Gravity experience, please what would you rate Gravity's weight limit at?
 
My packages arrived yesterday and I tried setting things up today. I opted for the "ship me the latest upgraded mimic--I'll wait" option.

I got everything balanced, but the mimic doesn't seem to be working for me. The transmitter says "No Link". I cannot find any (english) instructions for how to get the mimic receiver and transmitter to pair. I've tried the logical things I can imagine, but no joy. Has anybody figured this out yet?
 
Thanks for the advice Constantine. We're planning on doing just that. Now, we're rethinking our methods.

Hey Tom , just looked at your link and I hought I would give you a few tips no matter what.

First of all, I will say this, and that is for all bodymount systems currently availabe from the 50k steadicam systems to the lower type, Readyrig, easyrig, exoskeletons, etc etc.

DO NOT IN ANY CASE wear the system while shooting sitting on a vehicle no matter what that is. Its not clear 100% but it looks to me you are sitting wearing the Rrig, dont do this man. Shooting with body mounted systems that generate leverage forces, in your hips and back, can block vanes and ddamage your spiral cord , no matter what, I could explain this better in my own language , so I might be using the wrong terms and words here, but in reality all you need to know is, DONT DO IT, its dangerous and it can cause a lot of damage , and you wont be able to tell its coming either. Use a hard mount option. Pretty straight fwd and safe.

Now as far as the capacity of 33lbs camera. There us a lot of uncertainty about what exactly Tilta means about putting 33lbs camera on this. Fom what I can tell there is no way this structure can support this camera weight with out flex, and potential danger, and in any way, its not only weight its also size of the camera package, it would be really hard to imagine a camera that is 33lbs as small as an epic basic set up or mini alexa.

All in all motor power means more or less nothing if the rest of the structure isnt strong enough to support the given max load.

and I find it particulary thoughtless for a company to make all those statements from the engineering point of view.

The gimbal can be good and it can be reliable, time will tell. But those statements do not fit with a responsible engineering opinion.

my 2 cents.
 
Thanks for the advice Constantine. We're planning on doing just that. Now, we're rethinking our methods.

Hi if you are to shoot from a heli on the side door, just hang the gimbal from its top handle to a point to point strong bungie cord , which is easy enough to set and you are mostly done with out risk or effort and get vibration isolation at the same time. Its so less tiring and much easy to set with out risking anything.and since you dont really need to boom up and down but rather shoot straight ahead it makes no sense wearing a body mount system sitting on a heli seat.

regards
 
Constantine - your knowledge and suggestions to fellow forum members is a blessing.

thank you for sharing !

I definitely want to buy a black arm some day. Maybe around NAB will be a good time for me!
 
Constantine - your knowledge and suggestions to fellow forum members is a blessing.

thank you for sharing !

I definitely want to buy a black arm some day. Maybe around NAB will be a good time for me!

Thanks Dan, We will be there. Come by more than welcome.

Regards
 
Some forward progress, some backward progress.

After doing something that broke the pairing of my Rx and Tx, I took the approach of stepping through each channel to see whether the channel number was the problem. Indeed, upon reaching Channel 3, the pairing worked and I was able to get the mimic to steer the gimbal. Yay!

However, after updating my iPad to 10.1.1, the Tilta app definitely does not work as described in the video. Most problematic: in the calibration menu, the axis default is PAN. I can zero the pan setting, but I cannot select Pitch or Roll, and for some reason the Gravity3 wants to point the camera in an impossible direction. It wisely turns off the motors itself when it realizes the futility of that effort.

The app obviously has many spelling problems, typos, and inconsistencies that all need to be fixed up. But without being able to zero my axes, that makes operation infeasible. Worse, I'm not on Facebook, so I don't know whether there are workarounds for these problems or not.
 
Certain little nerve breaking issues here, any help will be GREATLY appreciated:
1. I got micro vibrations and though I manage to reduce the micro vibrations but still kicks in when i turn the gimbal in certain angels.
2. I got all 3 lights (red, green and blue) constantly blinking, is that normal?
3. Does the gimbal stand telescope like DJI's? Can't seem to balance the Gravity without the cage bumping into the stand's legs. So much that its sustain some scratches without even going on on a job yet! Must I always be on a c-stand to balance the Gravity? or does the stand actually telescopes and just can't seem to figure out a way to do it?

Thanks
 
Most people have left this thread and are on the Reduser thread "Tilta-Gravity-gimbal-Reveiw-thread-Post-your-expiriences!" (sic) and/or the FaceBook group "Tiltamax Gravity & Armor-Man2 Users". Abiodun, there was a similar question on the Facebook group from Tim Daust. Chris McKechnie suggested turning down the pan settings in the app and that seems to have worked for Tim.
 
Certain little nerve breaking issues here, any help will be GREATLY appreciated:
1. I got micro vibrations and though I manage to reduce the micro vibrations but still kicks in when i turn the gimbal in certain angels.
2. I got all 3 lights (red, green and blue) constantly blinking, is that normal?
3. Does the gimbal stand telescope like DJI's? Can't seem to balance the Gravity without the cage bumping into the stand's legs. So much that its sustain some scratches without even going on on a job yet! Must I always be on a c-stand to balance the Gravity? or does the stand actually telescopes and just can't seem to figure out a way to do it?

Thanks

1.) means it's not balanced/tuned properly.
2.) Yup..normal
3.) You can have mafer or cartellini clamp ( https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/co...ap=y&m=Y&c3api=1876,92051677562,&Q=&A=details ) and put that into a C-stand arm, arm it out away from the stand, good to go! No more bonking into the stand if you're load is longer.
 
Just got my Gravity! Woo long wait but got 3 batteries and new mimic. Will be testing today. Anyone know how to change the app from Chinese to English lol....and is the updated app ready soon?

Thanks again Chris!
 
1.) means it's not balanced/tuned properly.
2.) Yup..normal
3.) You can have mafer or cartellini clamp ( https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/co...ap=y&m=Y&c3api=1876,92051677562,&Q=&A=details ) and put that into a C-stand arm, arm it out away from the stand, good to go! No more bonking into the stand if you're load is longer.
Thanks alot Chris.
BTW, thought Tilta was giving us a cable to use to power the camera from the AM2. What I saw was a cable to supply power to the P-Tap distribution box, can't find any cable to power the camera.
 
Thanks alot Chris.
BTW, thought Tilta was giving us a cable to use to power the camera from the AM2. What I saw was a cable to supply power to the P-Tap distribution box, can't find any cable to power the camera.

That is essentially a cable to power cameras from a larger V-lock or Gold mount battery, since the Tilta on-board battery is too weak, yes? How could they provide a direct camera power since there are so many different camera power inputs. They'd have to give us 10 or more different cables, some of them with voltage regulators. I'm ok with this solution.
 
That is essentially a cable to power cameras from a larger V-lock or Gold mount battery, since the Tilta on-board battery is too weak, yes? How could they provide a direct camera power since there are so many different camera power inputs. They'd have to give us 10 or more different cables, some of them with voltage regulators. I'm ok with this solution.

Nope. 1 cable that connects to gravity DC in which powers the D-tap outs.
 
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