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  • Hey all, just changed over the backend after 15 years I figured time to give it a bit of an update, its probably gonna be a bit weird for most of you and i am sure there is a few bugs to work out but it should kinda work the same as before... hopefully :)

Group Buy: Budget CRI 95 LED Strip Lights

Just a note that I would hold off on the second group buy deadline until after most people get their lights. I know Straightface is interested but they aren't willing to take the leap without checking out a set for themselves and I imagine a lot of other people feel similarly. Once you get the first batch out then I imagine a lot of other people will want to buy some as well.
 
Gavin Greenwalt said:
Just a note that I would hold off on the second group buy deadline until after most people get their lights. I know Straightface is interested but they aren't willing to take the leap without checking out a set for themselves and I imagine a lot of other people feel similarly. Once you get the first batch out then I imagine a lot of other people will want to buy some as well.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it will be open at least a month. People will have a few weeks, at least, to test out the first batch of lights. Maybe a month.
 
Brandon...what length of strip are you using in your tubes, as in total length per tube (2-3 strips ect) just trying to get a sense of power required for a bank of tubes
 
Mike Harrington said:
Brandon...what length of strip are you using in your tubes, as in total length per tube (2-3 strips ect) just trying to get a sense of power required for a bank of tubes
Click to expand...

The long tubes I posted pictures of are double tubes and 1 meter (3.3ft) long. So, 2 meters per tube for those. There are single row tubes too. Those are great for car stuff.
 
so 1 power supply could support up to 5 double strip tubes....nice
 
Mike Harrington said:
so 1 power supply could support up to 5 double strip tubes....nice
Click to expand...

Yes, a larger power supply could support that or even more... The ones in the group buy will do at least 1 strip full strip which would be five 1m single row tubes. I'm going to thoroughly test various strength power supplies with the controller and then we can bulk buy larger ones if enough people want to. This controller is a beast so quality power supplies are a must.
 
Based off of just what I've used, which is LiteGear tungsten and daylite LEDs(Not variable)

This is how I understand it all. the controller is it's own thing. The controller doesn't need much power, if any. The controller only limits the amount of power to 10Amps MAX(Per channel, 40 Amps potential across all 4 Channels. 40 Amps of "white" LEDS, meaning single colour(Daylight/Tungsten) 40 Amps of LED is roughly 4x 16' Strips(64').

As for power supplies. You can find all sorts of power supplies. One key thing is that you should remember that it's roughly 1AMP per 2 Feet of LED(For White LEDs). So if you have a 1 Amp power supply, you are limited to 2Feet.

1Amp = 2'
2Amp = 4'
3A = 6'
4A = 8'
5A = 10'
6A = 12'
7A = 14'
8A = 16'
9A = 18'
10A = 20'
20A = 40'
30A = 60'
40A = 80'

If you use more LED than the power supply can handle, they won't get enough power and you'll see it dip in power(dim)

With that being said. if you really want to run 4 complete strips, 64' of LED, which would be pretty crazy you would need something that could handle this.

12V 40Amp power supplies are available, but are obviously beefy(usually have a fan). If you really want something that could run that, keep an eye out because some have a duty cycle. Some are 40Amps peak, with a 36Amp 90% duty and 30A Continuous.

Here's some 30Amp power supply

http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-AMP-Peak...le-Voltage-up-to-15-Volts-12-03-/400849130485
http://store.litegear.com/product_p/ps-12v-30a-v.htm

I personally don't see a real application that you would need 64' of LEDs all on 1 controller.That's 2400 LEDs, unless you plan on building fixtures.

I personally carry 2Amp power supplies and 6Amp power supplies. When the full rolls finally arrive I'll end up getting a few 10A power supplies. maybe 1 large 30Amp supply.

If you are going to make tubes, it's simple:
single LED tube = ~3' = 1.5Amps
Double LED Tube = ~ 3' = 3 Amps

The amount of things you can make with these are limitless! Be creative! If you plan on making smaller ones, well just remember the 1A = 2' of LED. if you want something smaller, it's pretty easy to do the math. Also, remember, LEDs are just small circuit board like material. If you buy the LED to LED connectors, make sure you don't add 2 full strips together, because the strips themselves can only handle 10Amps and you will fry them. You would also need beefier wires to go from a 30Amp power supply to your controller.
 
Last edited:
Great post Corey. The only thing I would add is that these LEDs are more powerful than Lite Ribbon, so I would use 8A as an absolute minimum for a full roll. 10A is definitely ideal.
 
Controller Update

The good news is we are a go with 10 amps. It's only another $9.

The bad news is Phoenix connectors will cost another $45. It's not just the connector costs, but there are internal changes that are required too.

Personally, terminal connections will suit me fine. You can always add your own connectors that you keep attached to the terminals.

Let me know your thoughts...

 
Brandon J.F. said:
The manufacturer doesn't have a quote for me yet because they are waiting for a quote on the Phoenix Connectors we want added. They have always just used terminals. They did send an updated mock-up, but I'm going to hold off on posting it until they fix a couple cosmetic issues. I just sent them a list of 12 things to fix/change. Most are cosmetic. My years of previous experience working with programmers on web applications (my concepts, their code.) and optimizing user experience is really paying off right now.

I should have the price later tonight and, for those that asked, I don't know the exact dimensions yet, because making it 10A will probably increase the size a bit, but the weight will be under 1 pound (0.45kg).
Click to expand...
Sounds great for only $9 more.

I vote for terminal otherwise the price difference is pretty large when compared to the current cost.
 
I talked it over again with the manufacturer. The reason the phoenix connector costs so much is because it needs to be rated at 40A even though the majority of us will rarely, if ever, push all 4 channels to the max. The high price of the connector will also mean it will cost more to have spares pre-rigged and they will be harder to get.

Note Suwanchote said:
I vote for terminal otherwise the price difference is pretty large when compared to the current cost.
Click to expand...

Jamon Lewis said:
Terminal connectors are cool for me.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I don't want to be on set with a lost connector and no way rig the lights. I think terminals are the ideal way to go. We can add whatever connectors we want with them and aren't married to a proprietary connector that costs a fortune and is hard to find.

I vote for terminals.

I'm working out the last couple details. Specifically, certifications. FCC, CE, and RoHS. We should be a go tomorrow.
 
THIS is an excellent post. I hope it does't get lost once people start voting again.


Corey Jacques said:
Based off of just what I've used, which is LiteGear tungsten and daylite LEDs(Not variable)

This is how I understand it all. the controller is it's own thing. The controller doesn't need much power, if any. The controller only limits the amount of power to 10Amps MAX(Per channel, 40 Amps potential across all 4 Channels. 40 Amps of "white" LEDS, meaning single colour(Daylight/Tungsten) 40 Amps of LED is roughly 4x 16' Strips(64').

As for power supplies. You can find all sorts of power supplies. One key thing is that you should remember that it's roughly 1AMP per 2 Feet of LED(For White LEDs). So if you have a 1 Amp power supply, you are limited to 2Feet.

1Amp = 2'
2Amp = 4'
3A = 6'
4A = 8'
5A = 10'
6A = 12'
7A = 14'
8A = 16'
9A = 18'
10A = 20'
20A = 40'
30A = 60'
40A = 80'

If you use more LED than the power supply can handle, they won't get enough power and you'll see it dip in power(dim)

With that being said. if you really want to run 4 complete strips, 64' of LED, which would be pretty crazy you would need something that could handle this.

12V 40Amp power supplies are available, but are obviously beefy(usually have a fan). If you really want something that could run that, keep an eye out because some have a duty cycle. Some are 40Amps peak, with a 36Amp 90% duty and 30A Continuous.

Here's some 30Amp power supply

http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-AMP-Peak...le-Voltage-up-to-15-Volts-12-03-/400849130485
http://store.litegear.com/product_p/ps-12v-30a-v.htm

I personally don't see a real application that you would need 64' of LEDs all on 1 controller.That's 2400 LEDs, unless you plan on building fixtures.

I personally carry 2Amp power supplies and 6Amp power supplies. When the full rolls finally arrive I'll end up getting a few 10A power supplies. maybe 1 large 30Amp supply.

If you are going to make tubes, it's simple:
single LED tube = ~3' = 1.5Amps
Double LED Tube = ~ 3' = 3 Amps

The amount of things you can make with these are limitless! Be creative! If you plan on making smaller ones, well just remember the 1A = 2' of LED. if you want something smaller, it's pretty easy to do the math. Also, remember, LEDs are just small circuit board like material. If you buy the LED to LED connectors, make sure you don't add 2 full strips together, because the strips themselves can only handle 10Amps and you will fry them. You would also need beefier wires to go from a 30Amp power supply to your controller.
Click to expand...
 
Corey Jacques said:
Based off of just what I've used, which is LiteGear tungsten and daylite LEDs(Not variable)

This is how I understand it all. the controller is it's own thing. The controller doesn't need much power, if any. The controller only limits the amount of power to 10Amps MAX(Per channel, 40 Amps potential across all 4 Channels. 40 Amps of "white" LEDS, meaning single colour(Daylight/Tungsten) 40 Amps of LED is roughly 4x 16' Strips(64').

As for power supplies. You can find all sorts of power supplies. One key thing is that you should remember that it's roughly 1AMP per 2 Feet of LED(For White LEDs). So if you have a 1 Amp power supply, you are limited to 2Feet.

1Amp = 2'
2Amp = 4'
3A = 6'
4A = 8'
5A = 10'
6A = 12'
7A = 14'
8A = 16'
9A = 18'
10A = 20'
20A = 40'
30A = 60'
40A = 80'

If you use more LED than the power supply can handle, they won't get enough power and you'll see it dip in power(dim)

With that being said. if you really want to run 4 complete strips, 64' of LED, which would be pretty crazy you would need something that could handle this.

12V 40Amp power supplies are available, but are obviously beefy(usually have a fan). If you really want something that could run that, keep an eye out because some have a duty cycle. Some are 40Amps peak, with a 36Amp 90% duty and 30A Continuous.

Here's some 30Amp power supply

http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-AMP-Peak...le-Voltage-up-to-15-Volts-12-03-/400849130485
http://store.litegear.com/product_p/ps-12v-30a-v.htm

I personally don't see a real application that you would need 64' of LEDs all on 1 controller.That's 2400 LEDs, unless you plan on building fixtures.

I personally carry 2Amp power supplies and 6Amp power supplies. When the full rolls finally arrive I'll end up getting a few 10A power supplies. maybe 1 large 30Amp supply.

If you are going to make tubes, it's simple:
single LED tube = ~3' = 1.5Amps
Double LED Tube = ~ 3' = 3 Amps

The amount of things you can make with these are limitless! Be creative! If you plan on making smaller ones, well just remember the 1A = 2' of LED. if you want something smaller, it's pretty easy to do the math. Also, remember, LEDs are just small circuit board like material. If you buy the LED to LED connectors, make sure you don't add 2 full strips together, because the strips themselves can only handle 10Amps and you will fry them. You would also need beefier wires to go from a 30Amp power supply to your controller.
Click to expand...

Good stuff....I'll be coming back to this for sure
 
Reminder: Our 3.5 mile / 5.6 km long production run of lights will be done Saturday. Shipping starts late next week.
 
The terminals connectors aren't bad at all. You'd be surprised I think. I have a 4 Channel dimmer, same style, with 5 wire terminal(Similar to this one) and no wires come loose. I don't treat things as nice as I should. And if things do start coming lose, then, its as simple as tightening up the screw. If you really want to be extra safe, just use a zip tie and zip tie the 4 wires together and thru the base plate of the dimmer.
 
Terminal connectors are OK, but could you take them inside the box, or hide them? (For exemple, construct the box so, that the connectors are on the backside. Would be easy, just flip the knobs and the marks to the actuall backside) It looks more professional, is more safe, and it would be better for integration.
 
For those really worried about the look of it, and reliability, you could always just get a Micro pelican case, and a couple strain reliefs. Just drill 2 holes, one for power in, and a slightly larger one for the 4 outputs. This will also protect accidentally bumping the dimmer and changing output. This is why I prefer these terminal connections. it really leaves the options open. I plan on putting mine in Micro Pelicans to protect them from the elements. Vancouver rains 2/3 of the year, so just moving them from cart to set could get them soaked. If the connections were hardwired, you wouldn't be able to do this, unless you cut the wires and all that. Once again, the less restrictions, the more creative you can be with it, and it leaves you with more options.

http://www.internationalconfig.com/icc6.asp?item=20507 (You can get them at any hardware store)
 
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